Thought it was AIR turned out to be Timing! Wow!

[nicksorenson]

Thought it was Air in Fuel, turned out to be Timing!This thing Runs like A New Truck!

Well the truck is like a new truck now! I had quite a bit of air in the filter when I first bought the truck. I changed all suspected leak points (o-rings on injector caps, return lines, bypassed fuel selector valve to direct to tank). Still started hard even after 1 minute of resting. I thought, man I can't crack this one. Finally I decided I'd probably just take it in to the Ford dealer but first....

I noticed that it started easier when the cold start timing advance and idle were on (First start of the day) after the initial startup (the following starts) it stuttered and smoked like crazy for about 30 seconds then smoothed out.

So, I advanced the timing about 1/16-1/8" or so and WOW!!! No smoke, starts at the touch of the key and IT FLIES!!!!!!!!!!!! I'd bet my fuel economy is better as well.


One question though... I'm getting no Black smoke whatsoever. That's Good I think??? But now that I have advanced the pump (From where it was before), do I need to get a Pyro? I'm under the impression that a Pyrometer is needed only if I turn the Fuel up. Is that correct?

 

[zigg]

I'm getting no Black smoke whatsoever. That's Good I think??? But now that I have advanced the pump (From where it was before), do I need to get a Pyro? I'm under the impression that a Pyrometer is needed only if I turn the Fuel up. Is that correct?

Well, that's not exactly true. Pyro is a good thing to have anyway, but may not be necessary. Without one, you really have no idea what's going on temp wise at all. These engines can get real hot real fast, and you have no idea where the pump you got is set to.

On my present truck, the pump is turned way up(originally the truck was turboed) and the temp can climb to well over 1000deg. in just a few secs. without really putting my foot into it at all.

I have noticed by the butt-o-meter though, that when I'm going up a hill, and I start to feed the fuel to it, if I see just a whisp of light smoke, the temps will be up around 900deg. If it get into it a bit more till I'm seeing a little black smoke, the temps will get up around 1100 pretty easy, and if I put my foot down till there's rolling black smoke, the needle just keeps going...

Each truck is a bit different though, so I'd say judge for y'self, but if you're not seeing rolling black smoke, and you keep the revs up over 2200, then you're likely ok, but if you let it lug down, and have black coal rolling out, you might be getting into trouble.

Pyro is real nice to give peace of mind.

Zigg

 

[nicksorenson]

I gave it all foot and have Zero black smoke whatsoever and plenty of power. I wouldn't turn it up a bit. As far as I'm concerned there's enough there that I don't need any more. I'm sure there's probably still room to improve but I'm not really looking for improvement. It goes like a Gasser and has the torque of a diesel. What more could you want. To me the difference between this and my bro-in-law's 5.9 2003 Cummins is not that noticeable. I think he's got 400HP with a chip. That's overkill unless you're hauling 16k or want to kill tires. This things great! Couldn't be happier. Forget Cummins!

 

[f-two-fiddy]

I've allways said, a properly timed IDI can make the differance between a satisfied, or very frustrated owner.

 

[tonkadoctor]

Don't need black smoke to make power. Black smoke is just raw wasted unburnt fuel.

 

[Diesel JD]

I'm very glad you fixed it. I thought timing might be it. A pyro would be cheap insurance, but with stock fuel settings I bet you'll see low egt, and fairly low boost levels too. If you are satisfied with it, leave it!!

 

[oldmisterbill]

I think we need to look for a happy medium between smoke and no smoke.I do remember a Mack I drove-it had over 2 million miles on the origional engine with about 3 in chassis overhauls.The pump had been turned up and it ran (for the times 1970s) like a ***** ape.I had to watch it because it had been known to shoot sparks and sometimes flames.(Don't know why it never burned a piston)At which point I would back off-finally had a mirror put on that pointed at the stack.I would make it smoke then gently back off and it would run great.Excessive smoke is wasted fuel and heat.I agree.Timing and timing curve are both critical,depending on the RPM range you want your power at.

 

[nicksorenson]

Sounds like you've been Dieseling for a while! I've had 5 or so diesels in the past couple years and I don't plan on going back. The simplicity (usually) in working on them and reliability (so I don't have to work on them) is great! And it's been fun learning. It's a good skill to have in the toolbag in my opinion.

Well I clocked out the fuel economy after tuning it up (IP timing adjustment) and I still only got 13MPG. Not too good. Of course it's got bad tie rods and of course alignment issues due to that. But still thought I'd do better than 13MPG on the Highway. Out comes the ole suburban diesel again. It's slow but it gets 21-22MPG all day. I'll see what this Ford does when I get the front end straightened out.

I think we need to look for a happy medium between smoke and no smoke.I do remember a Mack I drove-it had over 2 million miles on the origional engine with about 3 in chassis overhauls.The pump had been turned up and it ran (for the times 1970s) like a ***** ape.I had to watch it because it had been known to shoot sparks and sometimes flames.(Don't know why it never burned a piston)At which point I would back off-finally had a mirror put on that pointed at the stack.I would make it smoke then gently back off and it would run great.Excessive smoke is wasted fuel and heat.I agree.Timing and timing curve are both critical,depending on the RPM range you want your power at.

 

[dwaymar]

just think what a new set of injectors will do and pump

 

[nicksorenson]

I'm sure it'd help. Probably help my 260k old 6.2 Diesel in the suburban too. But I don't think that engine's worth of a new set. It's worn out and tired and the Suburban is about rusted to it's end as far as the body is concerned. Runs just fine though. Just starts pretty rough at the first of the morning.

just think what a new set of injectors will do and pump

 

[Diesel JD]

I can't remember if you said what your rear gear ration, transmission and configuration were(crew cab/reg cab SC?) 2WD or 4WD. It makes a difference. As much as I hate to say it I think you will never get the 7.3 to make the same fuel mileage that the 6.2 does. Why? Because the 7.3 is more than 1 liter larger of an engine than the 6.2, the Suburban is probably 500-1000lbs lighter than your 250, and the 6.2 just doesn't make the HP that a 6.9 or 7.3 does. I agree with Bill about the smoke. Just rolling coal is a waste of fuel and excessive pollution, but I like them to puff a bit on a hill or under hard acceleration as per usual for a diesel of that era.

 

[Agnem]

You got it close. Unless you're real lucky though, your timing is probably still not 100%. Get it checked with a meter and a meter user. You may have left some horsepower or money on the table.

 

[rkpatt]

I am about get my new IP in and will have to time by ear until I can get it to the shop . Looking from the front of the truck into the engine compartment turning the IP which way is advance and retard ? - Thanks - Thanks

 

[Agnem]

Pushing the top of the pump towards the passenger side advances it. See if you can get together with BJ and Tanya. They may be able to "lend you an ear".

 

[jimraelee]

You got it close. Unless you're real lucky though, your timing is probably still not 100%. Get it checked with a meter and a meter user. You may have left some horsepower or money on the table.

so if timing is so important on a diesel, is it worth buying this meter for a DIY like me??? Ive no issues buying tools (gots 2 toolboxes from gasers) if I will be using them often. Once in 4years and $300 cost, well then I might just take it in...