Those of you with the Hypermax Turbo Setup

[USNENFTS]

So, about a year ago I installed my hypermax turbo kit and was rather upset with the performance.... I had my fuel pump up 2 and 1/2 flats and had the timing advanced.... I felt like it took FOREVER to build up boost and get it goin.... I knew this couldn't be right.... So I back down the pump 1/2 a flat and retarded the timing little bit, this helped but it was still clouding out the road and the boost just wasn't there. I borrowed a timing meter and set it to 8 degrees advanced, this made a difference but still just didn't seem right. That was the last I messed with anything, worked okay, but was mad at the performance of the kit and felt I should not have bought it. Well today I decided to play with the pump a little.... With the advice of a friend, retarding the pump about a 1/16th on an inch from the factory setting made one hell of difference. I have about 75% less smoke and my boost comes up 80% faster AND I get a couple more PSI higher along with lower EGT's.... So if you have the hypermax turbo kit, I suggest you move your pump a 1/16th towards the driver side from the factory marks. With this being said, every pump and engine is different, but its a GREAT start! I can't wait to see how she pulls now!

 

[Hydro-idi]

We need to know what your ip timing is. Exact numbers would really help us identify the problem.....but you will need a timin meter to get that info. I'm guessing your pump was 12+ btdc when you were having boost problems.

 

[USNENFTS]

Well, the last time I used a meter it was at around 8.... Either the meter was screwed up or I didn't use it right even though I followed the instructions to the T.... The problem is gone now though so it really doesn't matter, it has to do with this turbo set-up, being just under the stock alignment mark makes a world of difference. I actually feel like I have a turbo now other than the sound, the sound has always been beautiful, but now the performance is beautiful as well. I am happy with the way shes running, no need for a timing meter....

 

[Mulochico]

The point is if you find out what it is timed at it might help someone else who may need to get a good place to start in setting theirs to work good.

We are all happy for you that yours is working, we just want to help all in the brotherhood to make theirs as good as theirs can be.

 

[OLDBULL8]

I would say you made the mistake of cranking up the IP 2-1/2 turns. A 1/2 to one turn would have been enough when adding a turbo, then set the timing for efficient running. Air and fuel mixture has to be just right for efficient combustion. By retarding the timing, your just NOT pumping in more fuel than needed (reducing the black smoke).

Example: Timing set @ 9* BTDC, IP fuel set up 2-1/2 turns, injection time is longer so more fuel can be injected, by backing off the IP 1/2 turn and retarding the timing, less fuel is being injected, hence reducing the over fueling that produced the black smoke and less HP made it run more efficient.

When you turn the IP fuel screw in, that increases the stroke of the fuel pistons in the IP allowing more fuel into them to be injected.

Makes no difference what make of turbo it is, they all just pump more air in.

Ya see what I'm saying?

 

[hce]

I found that 6 degrees vs 8 gives the similar results.
The 6 degree reading may be a true 6 degrees, might be 5 might be 8. Take and add up possible variances in the crank, timing pointer/pickup tube/front cover, and the damper a couple of degrees seems very possible, not to mention variances between timing meters.
Different timing will change throttle position an engine wants to run at for a given rpm, and the different throttle position will change the timing so even a change of one degree at 2000 rpm when setting the timing is not going to be 1 degree across the entire rpm and load range.
My point play with your timing, your engine and driving style may differ.

 

[OLDBULL8]

We could go into a long and drawn out discussion of timing and fuel setting the different models of IP's, old, new or rebuilt for manual, automatic transmissions, turbo or NA etc.
But, the timing and fuel would have to be set on a dyno for the most accurate and efficient operation of any IDI diesel. That's why some guys get 20 MPG and others get whatever. There are way to many variances of vehicles where each vehicle timing and fuel is adjusted.

 

[icanfixall]

So you say you turned it up 2 1/2 turns... HMMMM.. Did you mean flats and NOT complete turns of the screw in the pump???
What meter did you use and what cylinder did you use for the clamp? What location on the damper timing tab did you use for the magnetic probe? I'm betting you used a timing light. Meters like I rent out to members are all computer controlled meaning you clean. Set up the probes and rev the engine to 2000 rpm. the meter microprocessor does the rpm and timing down to a tenth of a degree.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

In the original post, he did say 2 1/2 flats. Old Bull just made a mistake.