The 2200 mile shakedown drive (long)

mankypro

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there is no better way to know your engine. I limit my exciting engine problems to 50miles offshore in 15ft swells.
I've changed injectors on the side of I95....


but seriously, I ran wvo for a good while, I strongly advise doing away with the FSV and replacing with large opening 3way valves (lotsa them). Any little crap gums up small openings.

I filter to 1 micron so I doubt the WMO is the blame. These things fail if you look at them wrong from what I have understood.
 

dakotajeep

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To personally gain from this thread....what kind of Jumper do you have? I am thinking about getting one and dont want to small or too big (if that possible!).

Just curious....

Thad
 

mankypro

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If you mean the jump pack I got the one from Costco it's a big green deal, has an inverter and cigarette lighter adapters and an air pump. I'd give you the model, but that night I had the guy tow me off the freeway I left it sitting on the the side of the road and someone pinched it by morning. If your battery is dead it's worthless, thats why I'm going to carry a small gasser genny to power a 110v charger/jump box.
 

typ4

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So manky, that sounds like the shakedown run we made 2 years ago to wisconsin. I could go into detail if asked.
My idiot gauge wnaders all over the place while driving down the road while the mechanical is showing 45 all the time so guess which one I trust?

Put on a good mechanical oil gauge. and i dont care who says what about hot oil in the cab, electric oil gauge sending units dont hold up on a vibrating diesel. Get some -3 or -4 stainless braided line to run and it will never be a problem. If you cant get it, Measure it up and I can source it for you way cheap I bet.
 
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mankypro

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I just bought a Sunpro for $17.00 the boost gauge I'd bought from them has worked flawlessly with the same setup. They use a rigid, clear plastic line which I could swap out to the braided SS - good idea.

I'm going to go poke around out there to see where I'll set the pickup. Where did you put yours?

Get some -3 or -4 stainless braided line to run and it will never be a problem. If you cant get it, Measure it up and I can source it for you way cheap I bet.
 

typ4

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tee off the back of the block in stock location, turbo line comes from the port down be the header.

I may have enough line and fitting in the "goodie " box , to help a brotha out. If you know what I mean.
 

typ4

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no compression all will be either 1/8th pipe ends or female jic, since all my "goodies" came from the helicopter company they are an/jic;Sweetgive me some measurements and I will search. I put a bulkhead fitting thru thre firewall and used 2 lines ,made a good place for a splice. I think I have what you need on my bench, fordguys old turbo oil line that wasnt the problem with the turbo.A whole nother story:mad:
 

mankypro

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Hey is this the electrical sender for the oil pressure gauge? The silver thing:

You must be registered for see images attach


I assume I'd remove the silver canister and screw in my mechanical sender's hose there?
 

subway

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yup i put a 1/4 T in there before it got tapped for my turbo. that way my dash gage still moves but i have the mechanical one to watch. you will also need a short 1/4 male to male fitting if you add a female T to go into where you pulled the sendor from.

leaning over the engine and trying to wrench between the firewall and block is the hardest part. not to big a job though, half hour tops.
 

RedTruck

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Sorry to hear about your trouble. That's some pretty tough country to get stuck. I'm glad you made it back ok and you've still got the attitude of making your rig work.

As far as your oil trouble, there are a few here that have used Auto-RX (I believe that's right) with good results. You may want to do a search and ask those members a few questions.

Paul
 

DeepRoots

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i don't care if you filter to 1micron, wvo and wmo can do weird things inside a tank and in fuel valves,
Please remember refineries and oil companies spent millions of dollars finding the best additives to add to fuels.
 

mankypro

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I'm a showme kinda guy. And while I value your opinion and experience I require more than anecdotal evidence of your claim in order to add this knowledge to my long term IDI memory banks :)

WMO/WVO are know to wreak havoc on rubber seals - hence the use of Viton in these applications, and while I'm sure that there are seals in teh FSV, I doubt the failure of the FSV in this case was due to WMO use - we'll know when I crack it open and poke around looking for damage.

The FSV's fail under normal use with #2 on a regular basis. And that is a statement of fact.

i don't care if you filter to 1micron, wvo and wmo can do weird things inside a tank and in fuel valves,
Please remember refineries and oil companies spent millions of dollars finding the best additives to add to fuels.
 

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