The 2200 mile shakedown drive (long)

mankypro

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Can it be used in addition to the mechanical pump?

The tank selector valve I rather have a manual one but the one on My truck still works fine now You really need to consider an electric pump. If didn't use one yet You'll see it is a hole lot better than draining the batteries to get air out of the fuel lines.
 

Exekiel69

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Yes it can (bypass) but You don't need to if You use the appropriate pump like the facet pumps used by carrier or just a simple 10psi pump with enough volume to keep the fuel filter full. You need a block off plate in place of the old mech pump then install the electric pump as close to the tank selector as possible (this is My opinion others do different) and use a wire that is hot only when engine is ON (some have a safety feature for this in case You are in an accident and can't turn off the engine) and connect it to a relay to power the pump. Very easy and the results are excellent.
 

mankypro

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So do people use the Holley Red's I keep hearing mentioned? Maybe I don't understand how fuel supply works, but having the pump pumping against the IP when it's not putting out that much fuel - wouldn't it hurt the pump? Or does the IP just bypass the extra fuel? Guess it ends up in the return lines?
 

subway

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don't know but just a heads up i like my electric pump but my holley blue, carter and airtex pump couldn't keep up with a thick WMO mix.
 

mankypro

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Yeah I was wonderin' 'bout dat. I do heat my WMO in the tank though. Would using a mechanical behind the holley screw stuff up? That is, use it in an AUX role?

don't know but just a heads up i like my electric pump but my holley blue, carter and airtex pump couldn't keep up with a thick WMO mix.
 

subway

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not sure it is worth the extra trouble, you might have better luck with more heat. mine seemed to just open up the internal relief so i shimmed it shut. sometimes it would work for a little after that and sometimes not.

i suspect that the thicker fuels were not letting the impellers come out of the hub in the center since the motor would spin but there would suddenly be no pressure.

my stock lift pump honestly seemed to keep up the best with WMO so far.
 

mankypro

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Thanks for the information.

I was only thinking of adding one as a solution to the cranking to get fuel back into the system thing.

I just picked up a new replacement mechanical fuel pump that I'll be installing here shortly - like $30.00 - probably worth it since the one in the engine is at least 10 years old at this point.

not sure it is worth the extra trouble, you might have better luck with more heat. mine seemed to just open up the internal relief so i shimmed it shut. sometimes it would work for a little after that and sometimes not.

i suspect that the thicker fuels were not letting the impellers come out of the hub in the center since the motor would spin but there would suddenly be no pressure.

my stock lift pump honestly seemed to keep up the best with WMO so far.
 

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