Super low buck filtering

[HS108]

I think this set up will work perfect for me, I only have about 10 gallons of WMO, mostly from oil changes on my own cars/trucks

I dont have a big enough supply to build a nice filtering set up, nor do I drive my truck all the time.

So could I filter my oil, add 3 gallons of filtered WMO and 1 Gallon RUG, blend together in a bucket, add to the tank with D2 in it and be set to go, just a nice easy way for a few extra free gallons of go go juice for the idi?

 

[FarmerFrank]

I think this set up will work perfect for me, I only have about 10 gallons of WMO, mostly from oil changes on my own cars/trucks

I dont have a big enough supply to build a nice filtering set up, nor do I drive my truck all the time.

So could I filter my oil, add 3 gallons of filtered WMO and 1 Gallon RUG, blend together in a bucket, add to the tank with D2 in it and be set to go, just a nice easy way for a few extra free gallons of go go juice for the idi?

3 gallons to a full tank? 1/4-1/2 gallon of rug if that's what makes feel good but not necessary.

I run an 80-90% blend and don't switch tanks for starting in the summer.

 

[Josh Carmack]

A that ratio, say 3 gallons WMO to a tank, you wouldn't even need the RUG, I run my old truck on a 90% blend as well, I would run it 100 percent, but I don't like fuging without RUG because the RUG breaks the detergents down and releases more nasty. So say it was clean oil for whatever reason, I wouldn't even add any RUG, just dump it straight in the truck at 100 percent. a tiny shot of either gets it's going to save wear on the starter.

 

[ryanecvbrown]

I think I need to invest in/build some kind of fuel heater considering my heater on the feed line tothe filter has been dead since purchase. I have noticed, during the colder months, my truck likes to idle after a cold start for about 20 mins or so for ideal fueling/running conditions. Letting the fuel in the return lines heat up and then warm up the fuel tanks makes her much happier. I think the 5-30 hydro we run at work is still a bit thick when temps get chilly. I had a radian tank heater idea last year that I think may work if I can get some fitment and line clearance issues dialed in. My GP's are shot thanks to the PO and I doubt I'll have the coin to drop on 8 new plugs before winter. I've been doing ether starts below 70 deg anyhow since it gives the starter too much of a workout to build cylinder heat and let er fire on her own. Just a tiny little shot into the intake and VROOM. Honestly, the cost of a splash of ether vs 8 new GP's makes me wanna snag the onboard ether systems we have on a couple trucks rotting in the boneyard and stick em on mine. They're KBI Dieselmatic one-shot systems for the ol N14.

 

[FarmerFrank]

I have either injection on my 4x4. The kit I got was for an 8v92 Detroit. All I have to say is BE CAREFUL. If you put it on a push button just bump it. If I hold mine in for one second it sounds like its about to throw a rod with that either "clank" noise.

With that said, it works great! Local truck shop is $15 for a bottle of either and it last me 6-8 month of daily driving

 

[Greg5OH]

new to the filtering game, sorry for noob question-but for reliability, quality, speed, ease of cleanup would you guys saying using a centrifuge is the best option?

 

[HS108]

3 gallons to a full tank? 1/4-1/2 gallon of rug if that's what makes feel good but not necessary.

I run an 80-90% blend and don't switch tanks for starting in the summer.

A that ratio, say 3 gallons WMO to a tank, you wouldn't even need the RUG, I run my old truck on a 90% blend as well, I would run it 100 percent, but I don't like fuging without RUG because the RUG breaks the detergents down and releases more nasty. So say it was clean oil for whatever reason, I wouldn't even add any RUG, just dump it straight in the truck at 100 percent. a tiny shot of either gets it's going to save wear on the starter.

I will admit, that im a newb when it comes to the WMO game, Ive read a lot on this board, but dont have first hand knowledge of it. My idea of mixing it with the RUG was that I thought you needed to thin the WMO to the semi consistency of D2, thus mixing the WMO with D2 wouldnt really do it.

So your saying I could filter my WMO, add the filtered WMO straight into the tank, top off with D2 to mix it up a little, then just run it as is?

 

[FarmerFrank]

That's exactly what we are saying.

Yes the oil will slightly thicken the fuel but you will also notice a quieter engine and some people say more power, some say less. If your questioning is just add 1 or 2 gallons to a tank. ULSD makes my 7.3 a lot louder than WMO.

Either way the fill up will be cheaper

 

[Josh Carmack]

OK, I run everything I own except the minivan on oil (silly little gas burner). Right now I am running a 90/10 mix of gear oil, thats right gear oil 90-140W at 40 gallons mixed with 5 gallons RUG. No additives no nothing. I have a little trouble out of my mail car, but thats mostly due to lots of idling, everything else is running it fine. Have to start the IDI on a shot of ether, but thats because international designed a **** poor GP system. The Mercedes fire up instantly on it with a half cycle of the pre glow. MY mail car doesn't like running my fuel on the mail rt, but on open running it runs fine. This stuff is thicker than 15-40 when it goes in the tank. I'm running the gear oil out now so I don't have to fool with it in the winter. In the winter I was running a 90/10 mix of WMO in my IDI last year and I finally had to start cutting it with diesel when it got too thick to push through the filter. One problem I had was forgetting to switch tanks, and if I did that I literally had to pull the truck down the road to get it going if it was below 40. The old perkins on the Allis Chalmers smokes real bad when running WMO but runs fine. Requires ether to start even on diesel in the winter sometimes it has no pre glow. I have ~500 bucks in my setup, but I built almost all of it from scratch. The system I run works great and I burn 20 to 70 gallons in a week amongst all of the vehicles.

 

[Josh Carmack]

Fuges aren't outrageous.

I ALL tallied up I might have 1000+ bucks in my setup, and thats including all the mistakes, redos etc. I really never kept track of it all, every time I filled my tanks up I would allow myself to go buy that next thing that was 40 to 100 bucks that I needed.

This is how I started out, and I had 200 bucks TOTAL in that,and thats an over estimation.

You must be registered for see images attach

YES, that is a 1200W heater element inside a PLASTIC bucket. Lets just say that you couldn't leave this thing unattended.

 

[Armo]

Not trying to be a downer in this thread but i no longer believe in using straight filters after my personal experiences. My previous setup used these steps in order. Settling tank pumped from the top through a 1 micron bag filter into another holding tank. Then it was pumped through a 10 micron water seperation filter, then through a filter cart with a 5 micron absolute filter, finally exiting a 2 micron glass spun filter and into jugs to add to my tank. The settling tank i pulled from with this setup had sat for 5 years. After really despising this setup and seeing that the 5 micron absolute filter was $150 to replace i setup my centrifuge. The filter cart sat for a few months and the exiting hose that i added a clear section of hose to had some solid gritty looking junk accumulated in the sagging portions after i drained the hose. If i get around to it i may update with some pictures of the stuff in the hose. Maybe what ever this sludgy stuff is isnt harmful or maybe i just needed to give it more then a single pass but it caused me to think twice about how well filters vs fuging works.

 

[NTOLERANCE]

I've got 20,000 miles filtering this way so far. I range from 16-19 mpg in a 7000lb brick.
I have had to change injectors but they were original 203,000 mile units. When I installed the injection pump when I first bought the van to get it mobile ( before the cyl head issue ) there was orange fuel in the lines and injectors which I assume was rust. So I don't think any waste oil caused that.
I think I have a way to get the water out of the oil as well and it will be low buck too!
I do keep four injectors and a spare working ip and a new lift pump in the van at all times.

Your results may vary.

 

[reset2]

Just some of my findings. When using waste motor oil and blending unleaded gas in it allow it to settle for at least 2 weeks. I have found out that there is a layer of sludge that forms on the bottom. My procedure is I will put in about 3/4 gallon if RUG and 4 gallons of oil in a 5 gallon bucket. Let it set for at least 2 weeks (prefer 6 weeks) then pour off the top 4 gallons. The remaining gallon is quite thick and the sludge is stuck on the bottom. Sometimes I will combine this residue oil into a separate bucket to settle and pour off the top 2 gallons for reblending. What is left is sent to the WMO recycler in my county. Just this step will save you an injector pump over time. Just my thoughts and experience for using WMO. For more information stop by Steelsoldiers.com they have a alterenate fuel fourm there also. Hope this helps.

 

[NTOLERANCE]

I ALL tallied up I might have 1000+ bucks in my setup, and thats including all the mistakes, redos etc. I really never kept track of it all, every time I filled my tanks up I would allow myself to go buy that next thing that was 40 to 100 bucks that I needed.

This is how I started out, and I had 200 bucks TOTAL in that,and thats an over estimation.

You must be registered for see images attach

YES, that is a 1200W heater element inside a PLASTIC bucket. Lets just say that you couldn't leave this thing unattended.

How do you keep the elec heating element from catching the oil on fire? Don't ask how I know this can happen.

 

[The FNG]

if you submerse it in enough oil while it is constantly circulating, the oil will never reach a high enough temperature to catch fire (unless your heater is over-sized for the task at hand). I have a 600W 120vAC heating element that I use when I centrifuge. During the summer months, it can heat 50 gallons of oil to about 150*f, but in the winter, not much above 100*f. Since the oil is constantly circulating, and there is enough oil in the system, I never have to worry about burning the oil or it catching on fire.