I had the same experience as Joe Mc. Truck would start and run, but would randomly die on me going down the road or sitting in the driveway idling. It would almost always restart though. Then one day it just wouldn’t. It would crank but no start. Ignition switch. Attached to the steering column behind the dash. Internal contacts had basically come apart because the plastic box had separated. It’s worth checking. I believe the part was about $20.
From your description, and you assertion that everything else is in tip top shape, the sudden appearance of the issue makes it sounds like it is electrical in nature.
If the electrical/ ignition switch checks out, I’d be PROVING the IP, compression and starter.
Compression check is relatively low cost.
Having the starter checked to verify proper operation is next. Lots of guys THINK the starter sounds good until they hear a new one. Starter should turn so fast it rattles the whole truck HARD.
IP and injectors are of course a big expense. Last place I’d go, especially since you’re saying the IP was just replaced. I’d be curious to know where the replacement pump came from if you actually got past checking the ignition switch and starter speed.
Here’s a picture of the actual switch. This item has driven many an old Ford fan absolutely bonkers!
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