Strange Elctrical Problem

aiyana7.3

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While driving my truck yesterday I noticed that whenever I was accelerating, the Brake In Park Light, Engine Temp, and Fuel Filter light would come on and when my RPM's got back down to cruising speed the lights would go off. (My rear abs light is already illuminated due to problems I'm having with the brake light.) Later that day, the Water in Fuel light also came on with all the other lights. A couple minutes later they would all come on and stay on whether or not I was accelerating. All of my gauges read normal- Oil Temp, Fuel Pressure, Engine Temp, Exhuast Temp, Transmission Temp, Vacuum, and Fuel Pressure. The Volt meter would go down so it is point right at the N of NORMAL and sometimes just slightly below that if under a load. Today, when I turned my truck on before starting it, all of the lights instantly came on and will not go off.
Other problems that could be related;
Brakes are spongey. I believe it has to do with the Rear Abs since I have replaced everything else.
I have a fuel leak that will leave a puddle of Diesel under the truck if the engine is running. It must be on the return side of the system for it starts and runs perfectly.

Thank you all so much for all the help you have given me so far. There is no way the truck would even start without all your help!
 

ironworker40

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Check charging Voltage and Amperage with a meter. DO NOT rely on the dash gauge. If you don't have one most auto store do it for free. Have them load test batteries also. Clean all ground cables, especially the ones from the batteries to the front of the engine block and battery cables. Check all fuses and make sure they are pushed all the way into there sockets.
Adjust rear brakes and use you're parking brake regularly. Using the parking brake keeps thing from getting frozen from lack of use and when you notice the pedal is going lower than normal you know its time to adjust rear shoes. Most of the self adjusters don't work very well if at all, but manual trans truck have less problems with them and the self adjusters tend to work better because they use the parking brake all the time.
 

aiyana7.3

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Thanks for the replies!
What are acceptable Volt and Amp numbers?
I have recently adjusted the brakes and bled and they have become a little better but still very spongy. The Rear ABS light has been on for months so I plan to either replace or bypass the valve.
 

riotwarrior

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One word: grounds.
That is actually 3 words....and a colon...:dunno:rotflmao

Thanks for the replies!
What are acceptable Volt and Amp numbers?
I have recently adjusted the brakes and bled and they have become a little better but still very spongy. The Rear ABS light has been on for months so I plan to either replace or bypass the valve.
Lets look at electrical first...ckean block grounds and chassis grounds...ensure bat end of cables are good and clean.

Clean grounds under dash...oddly corrosion makes funny things happen

Some soft scotchbright and 99% isopropyl cleans the contacts on cluster well.

If still continues could be a cross feed from a power wire some place...

Did you bleed ABS unit on the frame? It needs to be bled too

Bleed order

Rhr
Lhr
ABS
Rhf
Lhf

Hope this helps
 

aiyana7.3

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Where abouts are the grounds under the dash?
The ABS has been bled. What are everyone's thoughts on bypassing the valve?
 

ironworker40

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I would replace the Rabbs valve valve. It also is a proportioning valve.
You should have 12.5 volts on each battery unhooked from truck. Running voltage should be 13.5 to 14.5 volts. Amps with all electrical accessorys on at idle should be around 60 but this number is not a hard number you are looking to see if alt is putting out currant. If you use a load tests and short the baterys for a second alt should jump up to 90 or more at idle. The numbers are not as important for amps unless they are really low. You are look for it to be putting out currant, increasing with a load and increasing with engine speed.
 
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texcl

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Check your headlight switch, my filter light would come on at weird times but after fixing the headlight switch it stopped doing it. I also pulled as many connections apart and greased them with dielectric grease, so could have been a bad connection but lean towards the switch as the wiring was burned.
 

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