Spindle questions

[Selahdoor]

92 f250 4x4

Here is a quick video I just made.

On the drivers side I can't even get the screwdriver all the way between the bearing and the spindle nut. On the passenger side there is a LOT of room. Enought to almost turn the screwdriver completely sideways.

The driver's side inner spindle nut was not even hand tight. I was able to turn it in another full spin and about a half.

On the passenger side, the inner spindle nut was so tight it was difficult to break loose. Had to use a breaker bar. No idea if there was space between it and the bearing, when I took it off. It certainly wasn't going in any further. It was also cross-threaded.

Both spindle nuts from the driver's side spun onto the passenger side spindle with no problem, so new spindle nuts should take care of that particular problem.

Can anyone tell me if this play, and the space between the nut and bearing, is a major problem, or something that I can leave alone?

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Thank you.

 

[TNBrett]

I wouldn’t worry too much about the screw driver clearance, that’s more a product of how far the area where that outer bearing rides was machined. The outer bearings don’t go all the way in anyway, they’re limited by the race in the hub if that makes sense. (Sorry if that’s confusing I seem to be struggling with how to describe that).

the stub shaft that’s sticking through the spindle is a bit more concerning. The end that you’re moving around is located by the lock out hub, but there is a needle bearing and ****** washer on the back side. The bearing is pressed into the spindle. I would pull the spindle off if it were me and inspect the bearing and where it rides on the shaft. But that may be a bit farther than you want to go for exploration. Perhaps start with trying to move that shaft up and down at the u-joint in the knuckle with a large screw driver or pry bar. Try and hold the splined end of the shaft steady with one hand while trying to move the u joint up and down. If there’s a bunch of slop in there, that bearing could be shot.
Check out this link for a parts breakdown.
https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/c724_dana_50_ifs_front_ford.html

 

[Big Bart]

The wheel hub is going to determine how far in that bearing needs to slide down the shaft. That bearing will be pushing inward while the inner bearing is pushing outward squeezing the hub. The real test would be after re-installing the hub does it have more than a little play. Which if you cannot take out any excess play would mean the bearings or races or the hub is shot or not correct. (They are not creating enough space, so the bearing is bottoming out on the spindle not from squeezing the hub assembly.) What you are showing us is how far the outer bearing can move down the spindle. So the screw driver test is not confirming your hub play.

Like TNBRETT said there seems to be a lot of play on the axle shaft. Could be because they are loose and pushed back out of the race area. Or could be the roller bearings on the back on the axle shaft are shot. I too would suggest you inspect them, if they look worn replace them while you are this far into it.

 

[Selahdoor]

Thank you. Exactly the info I needed.

 

[TNBrett]

I just noticed that I was censored again. Apparently you’re not supposed to say T H R U S T washer.

 

[Selahdoor]

They might as well censor every word in the english language at this point.

Pretty much anything can be used if t h r u s t can be used. I'm surprised that 'pretty' isn't censored, if t h r u s t is...

 

[snicklas]

We are working throught them... I send them to Shaggy as we find them. Some just don't jump out like other do when looking a long list

 

[Selahdoor]

I got the passenger side spindle off.

Discovered, 1. The u-joint in that drive axle is shot.

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And 2. There is an inner seal there, that seems to keep the axle centered... That is all torn up and broken. Can anyone tell me what that seal is called? Or better yet, a part number?

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[Selahdoor]

Last question for now.

Would you recommend replacing that whole axle, right up into the differential? Or just do this u-joint, replace that bad seal, then get on with replacing the inner bearing and seals, putting the spindle back, and then replacing all bearings and seals from that point out?

 

[Big Bart]

Last question for now.

Would you recommend replacing that whole axle, right up into the differential? Or just do this u-joint, replace that bad seal, then get on with replacing the inner bearing and seals, putting the spindle back, and then replacing all bearings and seals from that point out?

If the bad u-joint did not do any damage, the axle shafts are not diminished due to rust, and you can replace the u-joint without doing damage. I would replace the u-joint and use the money for the seals and bearings.

Mark them so they go on the same way with the new u-joint. They could have been ballanced. Turing one 180 degrees could create some out of balance vibration.

Look in the back of the spindle shaft, do you have a needle bearing in there?

 

[ttman4]

They might as well censor every word in the english language at this point.

W e l l I h o p e I d o n ' t g e t c e n s o r e d a n d h a v e t o g o s t a n d i n t h e c o r n e r .

Seriously though I know @snicklas & @Shaggy & others have their hands full.

BTW Mods, question: Looking round thru previous posts etc do ya'll have them limited down to like 8-9 days (or whatever) worth? Or can I keep scowling round & keep backtracking & see like say, subjects that was posted/started back 2-3-4 mo or so?

Occasionally (rarely) I got some time to look back at/thru different subjects & look & read them.

 

[Selahdoor]

If the bad u-joint did not do any damage, the axle shafts are not diminished due to rust, and you can replace the u-joint without doing damage. I would replace the u-joint and use the money for the seals and bearings.

Mark them so they go on the same way with the new u-joint. They could have been ballanced. Turing one 180 degrees could create some out of balance vibration.

Look in the back of the spindle shaft, do you have a needle bearing in there?

Thank you. I would have forgotten to mark the yokes.

Yes, I already have the replacement needle bearing, and it's seals. I just need the pinion seal, now. (Dana Spicer # 44895. I don't know what the ford number is.)

 

[Big Bart]

I got the passenger side spindle off.

Discovered, 1. The u-joint in that drive axle is shot.

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And 2. There is an inner seal there, that seems to keep the axle centered... That is all torn up and broken. Can anyone tell me what that seal is called? Or better yet, a part number?

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TNBrett gave you a link above to the parts breakout. Here it is again so take a peak.

Dana 50 IFS differential and axle parts for Ford F250, F350

Dana 50 IFS front axle and differential parts for 1980 to 1998 Ford F250, F350 at Denny's Driveshafts

www.dennysdriveshaft.com

 

[Big Bart]

Not sure about the Ford part number.

 

[Selahdoor]

Yep. I looked a couple times. Couldn't find anything there for a while, about that particular seal. Kept getting directed to the needle bearing kit with it's seals.

I think I finally figured it out, though.

It's the seal that this kid talks about at about 12:36 of this video.

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By the way, everyone who watches this, go subscribe to that kid, he really deserves it!