So what did you do with your truck today?

[1mouse3]

I tried running those for a few years. The price is great, but I'll bet that I never got 15,000 miles out of a tire. DO NOT buy those. And they are terrible in the snow. I had to put my truck in 4X4 in a couple of inches of snow in the flat part of my yard around my garage.

At that rate, it would not be cheaper than the general tires. The the general ones would do that and not losse half it tread.

I have 4 of those rims, but in white with blue striping in my back yard. I call them boat rims, cause they look like they'd be on a 5 spoke boat trailer.

Well guess Im caption of this ship, can go see if it float in the mud pit.

I'm a stickler for hitting up the junkyard for tires. I got an almost new pair of Firestone's on the front of the dually for $20 a piece. It's rare to find 33s or 35s, but I can usually find nice pairs of 16" LT road tires. A/Ts sometimes.

I could look a couple of times but dont have hope to find 315/75/16 tires from them. Been watching craigslist and no deals have stood out, nor single steel wheel. Had seen a few sets but a bit was wanted for the sets, Im not looking for alluminum wheel. I grabed that cragar since was last in stock and think might get sent up a special creak, if did not get it before it vanished.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

At that rate, it would not be cheaper than the general tires. The the general ones would do that and not losse half it tread.

Plus, not long after I mounted the new tires on the rear of my truck, I went to visit my brother and his family. It was less that 400 miles round trip. I had all four tires at 80 PSI. I could see noticeable wear in the centers of the rear tires compared to the fronts. I had to look hard, but it was there. As far as I'm concerned, those tires are JUNK. This is why I run Yokohamas today. The Generals are probably good tires, but when I worked at a tire shop for a few months back in 1994, it seemed like half of the used Generals that we sold threw belts in a fairly short time. That scared me away from Generals. It's probably unfounded today, but I still steer clear of them.

 

[chillman88]

Hauled a load of galvanized pipe for a coworker to the local boat club for rebuilding their docks. Found out why the trailer was dog legging going down the road, left rear spring bolt fell out! Didn't get any pictures sadly.

Had a coworker who lives closer drop off the alternators yesterday. Today he called me. The reman one from 2021 is not worth saving, but he can take a part out of that and use it in the old Motorcraft one it had replaced. I told him to put new bearings in it just so I don't have to worry about them. He said it should be done Monday which is sweet.

 

[1mouse3]

Plus, not long after I mounted the new tires on the rear of my truck, I went to visit my brother and his family. It was less that 400 miles round trip. I had all four tires at 80 PSI. I could see noticeable wear in the centers of the rear tires compared to the fronts. I had to look hard, but it was there. As far as I'm concerned, those tires are JUNK. This is why I run Yokohamas today. The Generals are probably good tires, but when I worked at a tire shop for a few months back in 1994, it seemed like half of the used Generals that we sold threw belts in a fairly short time. That scared me away from Generals. It's probably unfounded today, but I still steer clear of them.

The one I have seen someone having belt issues, is on the falken at3w.

As for the yokohama Im seeing a mud tire that may not have manners.

https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Yokohama&tireModel=Geolandar+M%2FT+G003&partnum=175QR7G003&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes

See a all terrain version but looks more like a street tire.

https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/yokohama-315-75r16-tire-geolandar-a-t-g015-110101636/_/R-DLJD-110101636

This would be the generals tread for comparison.

https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=General&tireModel=Grabber+A%2FTX&partnum=175R6GRATXRWL&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes

Tryed to find someone testing these tires, is this...

2022 Tire Reviews All Terrain Tire Test - Tire Reviews and Tests

www.tire-reviews.com

Where the general gets left out on its own page

General Grabber ATx

Will the General Grabber ATx suit your car? Find the best tyre for your car read 4 reviews for the General Grabber ATx and compare to other Four Wheel Drive tyres at tyre reviews

www.tyrereviews.com

There is these but not sure on the testing to get the results, this is showing the general to be better more all around.

Yokohama Geolandar A/T G015 vs General Grabber A/TX

Which tire is better: compare General Grabber A/TX vs Yokohama Geolandar A/T G015

tirewheelguide.com

Even on the old version I have.

Yokohama Geolandar A/T G015 vs General Grabber AT 2

Which tire is better: compare General Grabber AT 2 vs Yokohama Geolandar A/T G015

tirewheelguide.com

For the set I have, I see good tred wear for them. The tread blocks are about the size of a ford key and this is around 15k-20k mile on them, plus what little was from the past owner. I like how these ran and think would go with the newer x version.

You must be registered for see images

 

[KansasIDI]

Pulled a 300 six out of an 89 F150, core support was rusty so I just ripped it off with a tow strap. Radiator was junk, and condenser was missing. Transmission was already out, entire front clip is gone, so I just undid the motor mounts, fuel lines, 4 wiring connectors, and exhaust. Then pulled it out. Real easy. It is EFI but will be carb converted. Truck is scrapyard worthy, no interior or doors, and bed is junk. Axles are rusty and leaky. Only good for the motor.

Don’t know what I’ll put it in but it was free cost wise and spinny wise

 

[KansasIDI]

I posted that because I dragged it around and yanked the core support off with my grey 7.3 truck. Am working on pulling the 6.9 out of the white truck to put the 7.3 turbo in. I have decided against keeping the grey truck, so I’ll pull the flatbed off and sell it and sell the truck as parts or scrap. Pull out tranny and rear axle and wheels. Unless somebody here wants to come get the truck and flatbed minus the motor. It will not have any fuel tanks either, am pulling the single 38 gallon tank out of the grey truck to put in my white truck.

 

[Jesus Freak]

Pulled a 300 six out of an 89 F150, core support was rusty so I just ripped it off with a tow strap. Radiator was junk, and condenser was missing. Transmission was already out, entire front clip is gone, so I just undid the motor mounts, fuel lines, 4 wiring connectors, and exhaust. Then pulled it out. Real easy. It is EFI but will be carb converted. Truck is scrapyard worthy, no interior or doors, and bed is junk. Axles are rusty and leaky. Only good for the motor.

Don’t know what I’ll put it in but it was free cost wise and spinny wise

I'm all about the alternative fuels, but running a 300-6 on Dr pepper is pretty interesting.

 

[KansasIDI]

I'm all about the alternative fuels, but running a 300-6 on Dr pepper is pretty interesting.

That’s a Power steering pump lid

 

[Rdnck84_03]

That’s a Power steering pump lid

Now that may be a little too redneck for even me.

James

 

[Old Goat]

WOW!!!! Just noticed, this the 10,000 post in this thread.


Been dickin around with getting my later style aluminum MC installed on the 86. Got it on, rod adjusted between it and the Booster for proper length. Had to shorten the length using the newer style MC and 86 Booster.

The 2 lines going into the "P" Valve on the frame were rusted pretty bad, so ordered 25ft of the Copper/Nickle Brake line.
Iam 79 and have driven a lot of vehicles over the years, and never had to make a metal line.
Watched a lot of YT Vids, so looks easy. Was at Hot August nights in Reno, and picked up a Tube bender.
Then saw another guy using a small one which looked easier, and picked it up at HF>

1/8 in. - 1/4 in. Tube Bender

Amazing deals on this 1/8In-1/4In Tube Bender at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

After fiddling around with it I decided to use the lines off the 85 which had not been tweeked around. Used them as a template to bend the tubing. Seamed like a good idea, although when I installed them nothing looked like the original.
Good thing once attached to the "P" Valve, I could massage the lines around and finally line them up to the MC.

I figured the front and rear lines should be good w/o any air in them. gravity bled the 2 off the MC, and screwed them down.
Took it for a ride down the get the mail 2 miles down the road at the cluster box`s. (Yesterday)
peddle is a bit low, but notice it sinking....HMMM
I do notice lil bit wet under the rear fitting, tighten it down a bit.

Today headed down to NAPA to pick up a brass Barb fitting to make the adapter cap for my Motive Power Brake bleeder.
Then over to Tractor Supply to pick up the 60 Gallon Ingersol Rand compressor marked down from $899 to $299, I bought last month, the day I down`d the 250 because of this brake problem.

This evening headed down to get today,s mail with my wife.
Sitting there at the box`s, pump up the peddle, it holds, then slowly goes down, was showing my Wife what it is doing.
First thought, is it by passing inside the MC?

My buddy drives up, and Iam showing him the problem, open the hood, and the Spring support Bracket, Shock is soaked with BF, and on the ground. I push the peddle while he watches. The fluid if coming out of where the 2 pieces of the valve screw together.
There is a "O" Ring that won`t seal. It is a special Ford "O" Ring.

Back home, out in the shop I have 2 more of the Valves, and thinking of having my welder friend, just weld it together... then Iam thinking....JB Weld it. So one is now doing it`s thing till tomorrow. See if this fix`s it.

This thread shows the valve apart, I JB it just under the smooth part just before the threads. Blasted it off with Carb Cleaner first.
2nd picture shows the 2 pieces.

swap to newer style mc - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks - swap to newer style mc - 86 f150 brake master cyl swap time. got an 87 f150 mc (EARLY BUILD has samepiston size). biggest thing is that with the newer style the ports are reversed from original metal one. need to swap lines front to back...

www.ford-trucks.com

To be continued....


Goat

 

[Old Goat]

Last summer the FSV pooped out, pulling fuel from rear tank and dumping it into front tank.
I have a thread with that title.

After dickin with the valve, I decide to run rear tank to the engine and return back to it.
The front tank is to be my transfer tank.
I bought one of the Facet 40222 or 223 electric pumps that were the rage a while back. Never used it and sat around 2 or 3 years.
decide to use it for this project.

Made a bracket on the Washer Bottle/Coolant Bottle bracket.
Ran the hoses to it and return to the rear Fill tube.
Used a jumper wire and worked like a charm.

Couple months back, was about out of fuel in rear tank, jumpered the pump, and let it run. Guess I let it run a bit too much, and figured I burned it up.

I ordered another Facet pump, but the small cube one, FAC-40109, from Pegasus Racing. Decided to mount this one on the Frame forward the Tank and behind the Trans X frame.
Found one hole up high on the frame, drilled it out to 3/8".

Out in the shop found a piece of flat stock, 3" wide X 1/8" thick.

Cut it with about 7" long, with a right angle bend, 3" drop, and 4" sticking out for the pump. Marked the 2 hole for the pump for 1/4" bolts.
Por`d the bracket so it won`t rust.

Have some Conveyor type rubber belting I got from Farm Supply. Actually bought it for the Snow Blower Impellers to make them fit closer to the housing, to throw the snow farther.

It,s 4.5" wide, marked the foot of the pump, the 2 hole,s for the bolts. Cut the piece off, and the end being too wide, cut it in half to place under the bracket for the bolt/nuts for a vibration dampener, and HF hole punch`s for the holes.

At the Hyd. Shop, bought a brass barb for the inlet, and the outlet used 3 fittings to have it come down and under the pump to point to the rear.

Picked up a Filter at NAPA # 3003. They (Facet) want one that is 74 micron, doesn`t say on box what size it is.

Before I cut the 3/8" hoses that went up to the old pump, I blew on them to push any fuel back to the tanks.
Had my drain pan just in case, but Iam full of hot air and guess it worked.
Cutoff a good 4ft, and cut to fit the new pump.

Today got it finished up.
Now to run the electric up to the engine, mount a relay and 5 amp fuse. Need to figure out some type of pressure switch so it cuts off the pump....and a Hobbs switch that kills power if you get in a wreck and engine dies, the lack of oil pressure kills the pump. Not sure how to do both.
Maybe the Hobbs for the fuel pressure also....IDK we`ll see.


Goat

 

[nelstomlinson]

Put both switches in series so that both must be closed to power the pump.

 

[KansasIDI]

Pulled the core support on my 6.9

Humidity is over 100% here, air is supersaturated. Started to get light headed, then started bleeding through my skin. It’s hot. Be careful.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

air is supersaturated. Started to get light headed,

That's why I didn't get anything accomplished for myself today. All I got done was help a friend drag this out of the weeds behind his garage.

 

[Jesus Freak]

Pulled the core support on my 6.9

Humidity is over 100% here, air is supersaturated. Started to get light headed, then started bleeding through my skin. It’s hot. Be careful.

For real, it's crazy hot in majestic NW Florida!!! Be super careful if you got to be out in it.