So what did you do with your truck today?

[sgallaty]

Cussed at an went on.looks like it's time to buy a moose pump my pump is leaking somewhere


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Let me know how you like it. My pump and injectors are all original 1989 - expecting failures.

Today I moved the arbor press and pressed out the bushings on the temporary leaf springs. Now I need to find a set of bushings that'll fit the wagoneer springs that are 5/8 bolt. The original wagoneer bushings are 9/16.

Also fired up the sandblaster for a few minutes. I typically blast big rusty/dirty pieces using dried sand, outdoors wearing a fresh p100 mask, something on my head to prevent sand getting it and a face shield. I know about silicosis but honestly most of the things people suggest blasting with are far, far worse. I've even heard people suggest using metal slags that have lead, mercury and arsenic - out of flat ignorance.

We're surrounded by dangerous chemicals all the time. It's not the chemicals that harm us, it's ignorance and mishandling that harms us.

For really messy pieces it doesn't make sense to throw good grit at it since I don't have a recovery system. I'd like to get a PPA hood, and i've been looking into it. Just haven't found anything promising.



Tired but happy.

 

[laserjock]

Let me know how you like it. My pump and injectors are all original 1989 - expecting failures.

Today I moved the arbor press and pressed out the bushings on the temporary leaf springs. Now I need to find a set of bushings that'll fit the wagoneer springs that are 5/8 bolt. The original wagoneer bushings are 9/16.

Also fired up the sandblaster for a few minutes. I typically blast big rusty/dirty pieces using dried sand, outdoors wearing a fresh p100 mask, something on my head to prevent sand getting it and a face shield. I know about silicosis but honestly most of the things people suggest blasting with are far, far worse. I've even heard people suggest using metal slags that have lead, mercury and arsenic - out of flat ignorance.

We're surrounded by dangerous chemicals all the time. It's not the chemicals that harm us, it's ignorance and mishandling that harms us.

For really messy pieces it doesn't make sense to throw good grit at it since I don't have a recovery system. I'd like to get a PPA hood, and i've been looking into it. Just haven't found anything promising.



Tired but happy.

Very true. Ever read the ingredients from black beauty? It's all a variation of silicon dioxide. Glass beads. Sand. Black beauty. Unless you are soda blasting, it's all bad. Best bet is to not breath any of it. Soda is only slightly better because it's water soluble. It has its problems too.

 

[JLtoolman]

And, you don't know what other chemicals that are in the rust that has been picked up off the road, or out of the atmosphere.

 

[Koch13351]

Well my ignition failed yesterday. I went to start it in morning and something cracked in the column. Took it apart to find that the pin for the ignition key release mechanism broke, so it wouldn't allow the linkage to push further than the ignition on position. It would just bend to the side once it hit the resistance of the ignition switch spring. Is this a common occurrence? I was assuming so since I often see members have push button start. So, push button start it is for me too...

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[dunk]

ZF5 project finally begins. Got the guts out of one and started breaking it down. Plan is to rebuild the 460 shafts and put them in the diesel case. Was a late day at work so I haven't accomplished much except getting soaked in ATF and not sure how motivated I am to keep going tonight.

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[sgallaty]

Took the body donor van (84 nickel colored barndoor w/ partial ambulance interior) to pick up some goodies. needed some odds and ends - air hose fittings, a few more home depot buckets, some screen to filter blast media.

got off work and basically wasted all of my daylight f*****g around at harbor freight and home depot. finally got home in the evening without enough light to work. Did spend a little time playing with my crap gravity fed blast gun. With dry filtered rough sand it works so very well. Wore my full face mask and filter mask and forgot my f*****g goggles and got sand grit in my eyes. Quick lesson in humility there.

The little blasting I have done taught me that I want a better blasting setup. Pressure pot I think is how I am going to go.

 

[dunk]

Harbor freight cabinet + http://www.tptools.com/USA-Cabinet-Gun-and-Pickup-Tube-Upgrade-Kit,2320.html?b=d*8026 and add a dust deputy and cheap shop vac and you're golden. You need lots of dry air, I made an aftercooler for my compressor which works great, got sick of fighting water particularly in the summer when it's humid.

Fought the ZF a bit more. Couldn't get the rear bearing off, broke my bearing separator. I'll probably cut/grind/chisel it another day. Hate doing it the tedious way. Any recommendations for a bearing separator and puller that don't suck? Not something I use often but when I need it, I need it to work.

 

[sgallaty]

Man that is interesting. Theoretically speaking, when the compressed air cools it could condense since cool air takes up less volume than hot air and that should cause liquid to condensate out of it. That is why liquid forms around a glass of cold beverage - cooling the air near the beverage causes moisture to condense out of the air. If you could cool the air to a point where it was cooler than it entered your system you could very quickly remove moisture from it.

In theory, when the gas cools you could have liquids forming in your cooling coils, so if you run a vertical air pipe up and down to the cooler and then down from the cooler you place a water trapment of some sort with an automatic drain valve, you should be able to automatically eject condensate water before it gets to your tank.

http://www.harborfreight.com/automatic-compressor-drain-kit-68244.html

Also, 300 degree air that goes into your tank at 150psi will be less dense, and when it cools to room temperature you'll lose pressure.

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/air-temperature-volume-d_853.html

The most efficient system of cooling I could theoretically imagine would be to have the ejected water from the water trap pumped to an evaporative ballast that holds the cooling coils. That way as water condensates out of the system, you use it to evaporatively cool the air being somehow returned back in which would further cool and extract moisture.

I would imagine the most effective way to return the water to the system as coolant would be to use some small amount of compressed air from the system to eject it as a vapor onto the cooling coils - the water in a mist form would rapidly cool due to evaporation and assist in cooling the coils especially with air forced over it.

 

[sjwelds]

Any recommendations for a bearing separator and puller that don't suck? Not something I use often but when I need it, I need it to work.

The absolute bomb: http://www.posilock.com/

 

[dunk]

Annoyed I can't find my larger 3 jaw to pull the last bits apart, garage has been a mess of shuffling stuff around to do the compressor project. If I can't find it I'll pick one up tomorrow and carry on, maybe break down the diesel ZF main components tonight. Reverse is pretty chewwed up and synchro about worthless. If anyone has a 460 ZF5 reverse gear in good condition let me know. Probably be fine with fresh synchro and cleaning up with a file being as it's reverse, but would prefer better.

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[sgallaty]

Sandblasted stuff

 

[riotwarrior]

Well I had a ps return line failure today on way home....bout 25 k from home.

Was driving uphill and hit bump and the line I was suspect of was one that blew...

No biggy kept on driving. Still managed to steer and as well still mamaged to STOP a few times no less.

Got home rolled it easy down back side up to shop and let sit.

Now its psuedo repaired...lmao...it may blow again but that is ok.

Bottom line I now hold way more fluid...syse has been flushed now about 4 times .

One thing I found is new fluid and flushes resolved my issue I was experiencjng with my steering...an over centre feeling the wheel would kind feel like a tre rolled over...like the clunk when linkages goes over centre...and it was hard to steer and return to centre sucked too.

That seems all better with fresh fluid and I no longer smell hot trans fluid as I did before.

 

[ISPKI]

May havd discovered yet another electrical issue with my 94 idi. Blown 20A fuse, #11 in the box under the hood. Could be a big reason why the slug wasnt starting.

 

[Runningaford]

Rebuilt the steering column; far easier than I imagined. The bottom bearing was good, the two top bearings were non existent. After getting it back together, I'm totally stoked about how it'll drive once back in. It's still out because I'll be rebuilding the pedal assembly tomorrow, and replacing the clutch master cylinder arm-end with a new Heim joint.

 

[dunk]

This is like a snail pace progression time lapse... lol

Second ZF pulled apart as far as I need. Reverse is the same for both 460 and diesel trans. Reverse gear from the diesel trans has much nicer teeth so I will use that. The slider is much nicer on the reverse side as well. The diesel slider has a different PN 1307 304 372 vs 1307 304 188 on the 460 trans. They appear identical and fit fine either way so not sure if one is a superseded PN. I plan to use the diesel reverse gear and slider on the gas main shaft and synchro hub. If anyone knows anything about any differences in these parts please let me know. For now I'm waiting a couple days until the needle bearings arrive then I can assemble.

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