So just how much does a turbo help? Pics too!

oregon96psd

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I agree if your truck has trouble pulling two atv's theres probably something amiss. Idi's are gutless, but thats pathetic. As far as the turbo and altitude, when I first bought my 84 I lived at 10,000 feet and worked at 11,300 feet. When it was na it would pull the pass heading to work at 45 mph, after i could get 65 out of it if i wanted, no smoke at all. Theres no excuse for a na diesel, a turbo makes them actually worth putting diesel in the tank.....
 

chris142

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just filled and checked mpg. 11.2 which is the worst ive ever seen from it. im going to go weigh the trailer.
 

icanfixall

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Normally our timing is 8.5 degrees advanced but if your running better someplace else. Then by all means run that timing.
 

chris142

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trailer weighs 1500 lbs.2 quads 1000 plus another 500 in miscellaneous stuff. truck and load weighs in @around 9500 lbs
 

franklin2

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My truck is NA and runs pretty good and I get 15mpg with a zf, 4 inch lift and 35 inch tires with 4.10's. I drove a STOCK factory 94 idi turbo f350 with the zf and 4.10's. It felt like it had two engines under the hood instead of one. That's how it compared to mine. I bet the aftermarket turbo trucks run even better than that.
 

IDIBRONCO

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A couple of years ago, I pulled my car trailer with 4 atv's and a dirt bike over Monarch Pass in Colorado with my Bronco with a n/a 6.9, K&N filter,zf5, 4.10's, and headers. I had a similar experience. I'm not sure of the grade, but I could hold 4th for about half way up. 3rd held until about the last mile or so from the top. Then it was 2nd gear, foot close to the floor, long lines of black smoke, even longer line of cars. It was all the poor thing could do to hold 20 mph at the 12,000' plus summit. I live at about 2200' and expected that over the pass, but was surprised at lower elevations. It ran fairly well in the 6000' to 8000' range. I was impressed, but sure was wishing for a turbo to force more air into the engine.
 

zjspeedy

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A turbo will help ALOT in reducing the black smoke. I did the banks turbo install myself about seven months after I bought my truck. My truck had 180k miles on it since the last rebuild. How many miles before the rebuild i don't know and neither did the friend i bought the truck from. Most of the time the truck doesn't smoke or blow black smoke unless I try to make it since I installed the manual transmission. The Mileage difference for me is as follows: N/A with E4OD transmission was 12, Turbo with E4OD transmission was 15, Turbo with manual transmission is now 18. I'm in the middle of overhauling my rear axle to 3.55 from 4.10. Also someone started a forum saying he was selling his banks turbo system for $2000. Brand new banks it is $3000. I bought mine brand new. His looks like he planned on doing it and then sold the truck since most if not all of it is still in the plastic bagging. He has the $3000 dollar one. I can tell by the trans command module in the picture for the E4OD. The difference between one for a manual and one for an automatic is the transcommand. The system will fit for the manual transmission too (i should know since i changed mine to a manual) also it includes the new dipstick tube for the auto transmission. One hang up you will hit is that the replacement bolt for your tranny (top drivers side) will be too long. I fixed this by adding washers to space it out, or you might be able to use your stock transmission bolt. Since i have installed the turbo I have put over 30,000 miles on the truck and still running strong, other than my axle issue which is unrelated.

I'm going to copy a post I did on another forum.

I did a minor overhaul on my truck two years ago after i moved 2000 miles. I moved from Bremerton Washington to Muscatine Iowa. During the trip i had over heating issues. Mostly the engine running hot and from time to time bouncing the egt's off 1100 degrees. I was pulling a tow dolly with my 87 ranger 89 f350 fully loaded down with stuff. Total weight was probably 9000 lbs towing. More than once traveling i-90 through washington, idaho, montana, wyoming, and south dakota i had to let off the throttle to keep egts down below 1100 and coolant temps below 235. Anyway, during the overhaul i swapped out the stock radiator for the largest aluminum radiator i could find. I also pulled out all that insulation around the engine bay for less insulation as well as the fact that imho all that does is collect dust dirt and oil. Less than a year ago I pulled the heaviest wight so far for my step dad. I pulled a 1960s small ford tractor weighing about 8000 lbs on my newly bought 3 axle trailer which weighs between 3 and 4000 lbs. On my way to the delivery point there is a steep 7% grade hill for about 1/2 mile. I floored the truck going into the hill and had to downshift about 1/3 the way up. Still floored in 4th gear The truck stayed rock solid at 50 miles per hour. EGT rose and parked at 1000 degrees. Coolant temp rose and parked at 215 degrees. I have the banks wastegate turbo and it parked at 10.5 psi. No intercooler. Since it is not posted on my signature, i have 4.10 gears in the rear. Currently working on my axle to regear to 3.55 gears.

All being said the cooling system does have an effect on temperatures for engine, engine oil, and engine bay can be affected by ripping out that old matting. All that reduction in temperature should reduce the EGTs overall from my experience.

P.S. if i remember right my rpms was about 2300, i dont remember the rpms much as i was paying much more attention to the other gauges. To my surprise i never blew black smoke. My exhaust blew a light white smoke most likely from the cdr valve depressurizing the crank case.

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If you have anymore questions for me feel free to ask.

P.S. If you have never driven these trucks as naturally aspirated then you don't realize how much of a dog they really are. The banks turbo will fix a lot of the underpower and black smoking. I never pulled without the turbo but I can only imagine it being as chris described. Especially at 16 and 11 percent grades. When my truck was N/A would struggle to stay at 65mph going up 6% grades pulling nothing but the truck's weight a total of about 7k lbs with tools ,fuel, and people. 1,000 lb increments has a dramatic effect on a N/A truck. I will add that at first I missed that N/A sound of the diesel chugging. But I have learned to love the turbo sound just as much. Sounds like a 747 jet engine taking off down the runway when she's really working.
 
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bike-maker

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Truck weighs just under 8K, 5er weighs about 10k, add to that trying to push a 6'x8' wall (front of the trailer) through the wind.
Here's my experience at just under 18k GCVW....

FWIW, Oregon only has 6% grades, not to awful steep, but they all seem to have 25-35 mph corners in the middle of them - at least where I go.

N/A: absolutely painful. Truck wouldn't hold 3rd gear on a grade, which leaves 2nd gear at 3000+ rpm which equates to about 25 mph. Kept getting cramps in right calf from stomping on the throttle pedal. Even the little hills drug it down, so I would keep the throttle matted even on the downhill side just to regain speed or to gain momentum for the next hill.
Multiple time when I got drug down by a sudden steep hill, my kids were asking me why we were stopping...

After install of ATS non waste gated turbo: MUCH better. Switched from 33" tires up to 35" tires at the same time as the turbo install.
Will now hold 3rd gear on a steep grade, which at 3000 rpm is right about 50 mph. Biggest difference was actually on the little hills; instead of rowing through gears like before, I could now just lay into the throttle a little more and maintain a normal speed.

FYI, I don't even use 5th gear when towing, unless out on the flat interstate. Just leave it in 4th, and let it cruise along at 55-60mph at about 2500 rpm.
 

PwrSmoke

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I agree, the difference turbo and non is like magic. In the era of my 1st Gen Banks, Power and torque were rated by Ford at 170 hp and 315 lbs-ft at the flywheel. In 1987, Banks rated their 6.9 kit at up to 255 hp and 550 lbs-ft at the flywheel (I say "up to" because they had two fuel settings, one for low smoke and the other for max gain). Even if you reduce that to account for an advertising "fudge factor," a turbo is the most cost effective power gain, pound for pound, that you can buy.

Chris, 3.55 gears don't help you in the towing and hillclimbing departments, which is why you just rev her.

One thing you said puzzles me.... about slowing down when the fan clutch kicked in. Yeah, it's noisy but why would you worry about that?
 

tbrumm

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I don't tow very often, and even when I do, I don't have the grades to contend with here. But, you guys are making me want to install a turbo kit on my truck!
 

chris142

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I agree, the difference turbo and non is like magic. In the era of my 1st Gen Banks, Power and torque were rated by Ford at 170 hp and 315 lbs-ft at the flywheel. In 1987, Banks rated their 6.9 kit at up to 255 hp and 550 lbs-ft at the flywheel (I say "up to" because they had two fuel settings, one for low smoke and the other for max gain). Even if you reduce that to account for an advertising "fudge factor," a turbo is the most cost effective power gain, pound for pound, that you can buy.

Chris, 3.55 gears don't help you in the towing and hillclimbing departments, which is why you just rev her.

One thing you said puzzles me.... about slowing down when the fan clutch kicked in. Yeah, it's noisy but why would you worry about that?
the fan clutch locking up slowed me even more!
 

oregon96psd

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^^ Tow heavy with a six liter, when that fan locks solid and shes wound out, youll think its going to suck the radiator, air to air and grill right out of the pickup lol
 

franklin2

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FYI, I don't even use 5th gear when towing, unless out on the flat interstate. Just leave it in 4th, and let it cruise along at 55-60mph at about 2500 rpm.

I was towing a backhoe up the east side of Afton mountain near where I live with a dump truck with a turboed 8.2 GM engine. I could leave it in high gear and floor it, and it would blow black smoke and pull the load, but after a few minutes of doing that I could see it was starting to overheat. I downshifted one gear and didn't lose any speed, but the temps started coming down.

I commented about that to some people more "in the know" about such things, and they said keeping the rpms up is the best, even with a turbo. They said keeping the boost up helps push lots of air through the engine that helps keep it cool, along with keeping the water pump turning at a higher flow rate, keeping the radiator fan turning fast, and keeping the oil pressure up. Interesting things you learn driving these things.
 

snicklas

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^^ Tow heavy with a six liter, when that fan locks solid and shes wound out, youll think its going to suck the radiator, air to air and grill right out of the pickup lol

I guess I have not heard that yet. I have only towed about 6000 lbs. I am not sure I have ever heard it kick in......
 

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