Sick to my stomach Im so upset!

[6.9poweredscout]

**** that sucks, hopefully it'll clean itself up. when i got my 6.9 from the junkyard it was a "running engine", i tore it down to regasket/reseal it, what do ya know, 2 cyls were full of rust and water! , had to tear it down and have it machined 20 over to clean it up....$2900 in machine work later hopefully it'll become a "running engine".

-Jon

 

[Full Monte]

I'd be sick, too. The only thing I can think of is to get some oil into each cylinder through the injector holes. Use Kroil or another good penetrating oil, followed by engine oil, just to make sure the top end has some lube. Mind you, don't overfill the cylinders up with oil...you don't want to hydrolock them and lose a head gasket. On the bottom end, I think turning the engine over with the starter, WITHOUT glow plugs connected, would get some oil in the critical parts before a fast rpm start. It would also make sure that it will turn over.... Assuming you have a running engine, I also think that changing the oil very soon would help...just to make sure all the water is out of it.

 

[69dieselfreak]

make shure to fill the oil filter so it wont take that long to build up oil psi

 

[Brimmstone]

This will cost some money but it has worked for me to prelube engines in the past. Get an old refillable fire extinguisher with a schrader valve on the side. Take the top off and clean it out with solvent. Take the hose off and get some brass fittings and adapt it down to a grease gun hose. Fill the body about half full of oil. Thread the other end of the hose into the oil pressure port. Reattach the body to the head and pressurize it till the gauge on the side says it's ready. Pull the handle and let it rip. I've done this to hundreds of engines and it has never failed me.

 

[69dieselfreak]

This will cost some money but it has worked for me to prelube engines in the past. Get an old refillable fire extinguisher with a schrader valve on the side. Take the top off and clean it out with solvent. Take the hose off and get some brass fittings and adapt it down to a grease gun hose. Fill the body about half full of oil. Thread the other end of the hose into the oil pressure port. Reattach the body to the head and pressurize it till the gauge on the side says it's ready. Pull the handle and let it rip. I've done this to hundreds of engines and it has never failed me.

do u have some pics of this set up

 

[Greg Pettit]

Here's a pic of the engine after cleaning it up, painting everything, and swapping everything from the K block turbo engine to this one.

Not to sound harsh, but the "aerosol overhaul" can only get you so far.

Better to drop the pan before breaking out the paint, and especially before completing the engine install just to be safe.

Greg

 

[6 Nebraska IDIs]

Well we had literally everything BUT the pan off of this thing, and figured as nice as everything else looked up top we'd just forgo the pan drop since I seem to have this problem with getting the corners of the pan to seal on these things. But I guess you're right, ******** decision on my part I guess.

 

[Brimmstone]

do u have some pics of this set up

I will check in my pics file to see if I still have some pics. If not I'll look back in the barn I think I brought it with me to Texas just have to find it in all the boxes. I'll see what I can do tonight.

 

[icanfixall]

Did you check the oil pan before you filled the motor cooling system? This may have a coolant leak somewhere else and it started to fill the oil pan. I know this isn't a good sign but its another possibility. The crank and oil pump are a long ways from the bottom of the oil pan. If the motor didn't turn with that much water in it maybe the shiny parts are not affected at all. Remember that water drops below oil so the oil was closest to the shiny parts. A dry cylinder can sound ruff but as posted, try some areokroil or PB blaster on each cylinder. I don't feel any bearings will fry because the water couldn't have gotten to them if the motor didn't turn. Depending on how long the motor sat will tell you how dry the cylinders are. Give it a test run and send a sample to Blackstone. I bought a motor off Evilbay for $78.00. I asked the owner why he pulled it. He told me "because it had high miles on it". He used it driving back and forth to Mexico. I knew it had been sitting in his yard open for some time just my looking at it. I got it home and pulled the heads. Several cylinders were rusted and full of water. No problem, I planned to sleeve all 8. Then I tried to turn it over to scrape some of the rust from the cylinders. It went clunk. I turned it the other direction and clunk.... Then I saw that number 5 piston didn't move at all. Pulled the pan and found a broken rod on #5. Rat *******. I wanted to kill him but he had fled back to Mexico. Thats a lucky dude in my neck of the woods. Anyway I saved the motor. I found just a small chip in the bottom of #5 cylinder and the crank was fine but I ground it 10 under on both sides. That motor has been rebuilt twice and its running fine. Lots better that the guy that sold it to me if you know what I mean....

 

[6 Nebraska IDIs]

Hey,
Yea we drained the pan before putting any water in it, the water neck thing was the second of the two problems. lol So, unless there's more water in there now it shouldnt be an internal leak.
We are going to fill the oil filter half full with slick 50 in hopes it will super lube everything up right quick before start up. And will also be putting a can or so of sea foam into the oil as well.
We bought a new lower rad hose, and sanded the neck a little hoping it was just leaking because of rough spots.
I'll keep you guys updated.

 

[typ4]

I wouldnt waste the slick 50 on it just yet ,your biggest concern is the cylinder walls NOT the crank. As said before ,prelube the top end, I use atf and laquer thinner 5050 and let it soak the rings, might remove your paint when it comes out the glow plugs but , I would get it rolling over good before getting any compression to start. The prelubing thing is moot till you put pressure on it.
My crank was under water in the pan for a couple months and did no damage. Some stains that polished out.

 

[subway]

sorry to hear about your bad luck, i dont trust anything from anyone i dont know that "runs just needs......." they all used to run. i bought a running tractor that blew the engine less than a mile from the guys place. the oil looked clean but he must have JUST put fresh in because it was black and shiny from 15 mins of run time.

 

[6 Nebraska IDIs]

Okay guys, got a problem. We got everything worked out and pre lubed and everything, and now it wont fire.
The first second we cranked it over it fired a couple, probably what was left of the ZEP oil we'd put in the tops of the cylinders. I dont know whats wrong with it. Everything is wired in. I know the pump is turning on because I have fuel at the injectors.
Its not even trying at all. Just crank crank crank. Smoke is rolling up into the engine compt probably from a leaking turbo up pipe since we separated the thing again to do this swap.
Whats your thoughts?

 

[towcat]

do a compression check.
300psi is the minimum needed to fire.
also, be absolutely sure the fuel system is completely bled out.
one more thing...what's your cranking speed?

 

[69dieselfreak]

ha ha ha she wants to rodeo FN sweet