Serious oil leak from new engine! HELP

[6 Nebraska IDIs]

Alright well on the first real drive for our new 6.9 we had a gusher of an oil leak arise. Its at the back of the engine, and Im guessing its the rear main. I was hoping it was the turbo, but its completely dry up there.
Does anyone know of a quick fix to this problem as a temporary thing. We need this truck to haul two cars 800 miles in the next week, and I dont have time to drop the frickin tranny AGAIN and attempt to install another rear main seal.

 

[6 Nebraska IDIs]

No thoughts guys? This thing lost a gallon of oil in less than 60 miles!
I have a hard time believing its the rear main leaking that badly, unless I forgot to put on in, lol. I just dont know where else it could be coming from at the back of the block.

 

[Michael Fowler]

I read your post yesterday, and I feel your pain. But, honestly, I cannot think of any suitable solution. There are some crazy ideas--like wiring an aluminum baking pan under the leak with a small pump in to to recycle the oil back to the oil filler. But that's just crazy--no one in their right mind would do that. Then, again, we are crazy diesel people.

 

[subway]

are there any oil plugs in the back that can be bad? besides the rear main dont think there is much back there.

 

[Diesile]

Am I remembering correctly that that rear main can be serviced with only the pan removed?

 

[6 Nebraska IDIs]

Am I remembering correctly that that rear main can be serviced with only the pan removed?

Nope, the frickin transmission and flywheel have to come off to replace the rear main seal. You're thinking of the rear pan gasket. The rear main requires the entire backing plate be removed and resealed.
The ONLY other thing it could possibly be is the oil feed plug at the top of the block, like where the factory turbo's are fed from. However we are using the feed at the side of the block right by the drivers side manifold. I didnt even touch that top plug. It looked just fine. In fact the whole engine was super clean and looked to have only had a few minor leaks from the valve covers when we got it. Thats why we didnt mess with the pan and ****, figured it was all good since there were no signs of leaks there.

 

[f350flatbed]

Is it leaking from between the oil pan and the rear plate?

Paul B

 

[RLDSL]

Did you remember to use sealer or locktite on the flywheel bolts?those things go straight through to the crankcase?

When you installed the new seal, how did you put it on? did you just push the thing on over the crank, or did you use the factory tool # bla bla bla, or did you use the greased up soda drink cup trick?

If you just pushed it on, I can just about gauarntee that you folded the lip of the seal over And possibly got the spring wrapped around the crankshaft and that's where the oil is pouring out.

 

[6 Nebraska IDIs]

Hmm, I guess I didnt know you were supposed to cover the crank with anything. Thats a new one for me. Maybe thats the key to why I always have these things leak!
Please write up how Im supposed to do this with whatever soda can trick.

We used a liberal amount of Loc Tite on the flywheel bolts, so I wouldnt understand why it would be them.

 

[RLDSL]

If you just push a rear main seal on, almost EVERY time the lip will catch and fold over and oil will just pour out.
You either need the factory tool that spreads the seal out while placing it over, or take a fast food paper drink cup ( currently Wendy's medium soda works great , if they change the size of the cups, you'll have to drive all over town buying sodas till you find one that fits ) and cut the lip off, then grease the outside up real good, place the cup over the end of the crank shaft, and then gently slide the seal on over the cup and let the cup shoehorn the seal on without damaging it. Once you get it in place, carefully wiggle the cup out slowly and you just saved yourself $80-100 on a tool

While you have it apart take a good look at the crank for a groove and make sure it doesn't need a wear sleeve.
Make sure the spring comes out with the seal, when they get folded over the springs can flop out and get wrapped around the crank sometimes

This routine is not needed on the front balancer seal as it is designed to be pushed into.

 

[Ironman03R]

A fel-pro seal comes with this plastic "tool". I replaced mine when the tranny was out, and it leaks now! I shoulda never messed with it!

 

[hesutton]

You don't have a hole in your turbo oil feed line do ya? That will cause a huge leak and kill your turbo. Just give that line a good look too.

Heath

 

[icanfixall]

When I buy the rear main seal I always get the one with the speedy sleeve From International or Ford. Its easier to just remove the plate that the seal is resting in. Then you do all the hard work out on the bench. Then carefully slide the seal and plate back in place and center it being careful to use plenty of RTV on the joint corners. Thats the areas most likely to leak later on. If they are clean you wont have a leak. The oil pan can stay bolted up inplace without any problem. You really don't need the paper gaskets for the seal cover either. Again the liberal use of quality RTV works well. All my oil pans for years have been RTV gaskets only. Same with the front and back of any small or big block chevy intake manifolds. The seal comes with a gray plastic installer tool. Its crap. I have never gotten one to work. The directions state to never remove the seal from the speedy sleeve or it will ruin the seal... Carp also. That seal must me installed really deep in the cover plate. It looks almost like its in too deep but its just covering the seal flange on the crank..

 

[Ironman03R]

Yes I noticed that it needs to be in there a ways. I was afrade of goin too far with it. I also pulled the plate off the back.