RPM gauge

[burtcheca]

I would like to add a RPM gauge to have an idea how fast the engine is revving. Has anybody done it? Where do I get the gauge and accessories? Where do I need to install it?
Thanks,
Burt.

 

[hesutton]

Burt, if you can find a factory instrument cluster with a tach, that would be the easiest way to add the tach to your truck. Finding one can be very tricky though. I guy in Memphis did at a factory tach by just getting the tach gauge itself and making it work. Here are some photos of what he did.

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Hope that helps,

Heath

 

[GenLightening]

The truck is the easy one to add it to, the van will be a bit of work since they don't have a spot in the dash for one. Do like Heath said, find one at the wreckers and get the flex board from the back (if it's going in the truck, not going to help for the van). For the van you'll just need to run the wires for it which is very simple.

 

[Knuckledragger]

Burt,

I have a loose Tach and membrane from an 85 if you want to try installing one. PM me if interested.

Mike

 

[wbw189]

Don't forget the tach sender! I picked up the tach sender from www.fordoemparts.net. Any dealer should be able to order it. The part number is E5TZ-17B384-A.

Does your injection pump housing have the 1" plug where the factory sender goes? Can someone chime in with a picture of the tach sender location?

Thanks,

 

[GenLightening]

Just look to the right of the oil filler and if there's a big plug then you're OK. If it's smooth then you'll need a later style IP housing.

 

[burtcheca]

Just look to the right of the oil filler and if there's a big plug then you're OK. If it's smooth then you'll need a later style IP housing.

Yes, there is a big plug just a couple of inches to the right of the oil filler. Is it there where I need to install the sensor, or sender?
Thanks,
Burt.

 

[wbw189]

That's it. Does the van harness resemble the truck harness? Look to the passenger side of the IP housing and see if you have a two-wire connector not being used. The wire colors should be Black/Lt. Green and Dk. Green/Yellow if it does.

 

[burtcheca]

That's it. Does the van harness resemble the truck harness? Look to the passenger side of the IP housing and see if you have a two-wire connector not being used. The wire colors should be Black/Lt. Green and Dk. Green/Yellow if it does.

Nope, only has the wires going to the IP cold advance. I guess I'm gonna have to learn how to run those wires from there and where to connect them. I'll look in my truck later and let you know. Thanks for your help.
Burt.

 

[GenLightening]

The sensor plug would be a round one either green or black. If you don't have one the wiring is really easy. The two wires from the sensor will go to the tach and connect to the two posts labled Signal + and - (ground). Doesn't matter which is which. The other two posts are for 12v power and ground.

Now all you need to do is find a tach and figure out where to fit it. You might be able to use the later (larger) style (easier to find) and mount that. I think there's still a couple at my wreckers (everyone seems to need the early style).

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

>>> THERE IS AN EASIER WAY <<<

Way back in 1985, I got a mount-anywhere self-contained TACHOMETER = RPM-gauge from Autometer.

At that time, all their stuff was labeled "Autogage".

I am not a big fan of Autometer; too much plastic to suit me; but this tachometer has funtioned flawlessly for years.

Here comes the easy part :

Connected to the tachometer is a very-long cord, at the end of which is a sensor.

This cord gets routed through the firewall and to the alternator.

The sensor straddles the seam of the alternator, best to be at about the 10-O'CLOCK position, but not critical.

It is held there either by a long hose-clamp or a heavy-duty zip-tie.

On the rear of the gauge is a hole where you poke a tiny Allen-wrench and adjust the tachometer reading to match your particular alternator RPM; much easier than it sounds.


Although neat and tidy, the factory instrument-panel location is not the best place to be looking at a tachometer.

You can mount the one like I have to better suit where you will naturally be looking.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

I forgot to add :

I have had this tachometer-sensor on two completely different alternators; first on the original Ford 1-G and currently on a huge Leece-Neville.

It works well on either.

When on the 1-G alternator, I used the supplied long hose-clamp to hold the sensor in place.

On the Leece-Neville, the hose-clamp lacked about a foot being long enough, so I used a heavy-duty zip-tie and it works better than the hose-clamp did.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

>>> ANOTHER OPTION <<<

The wife's truck has another type of tachometer.

Her particular one is a VDO, but they are not the only company that makes these.

Instead of a special cord that has an external alternator sensor, this tachometer has a single wire that routes to the alternator and goes into the inside of the alternator case.

Alternators produce 3-phase A/C current, before it is rectified and transformed into D/C current.

This tachometer wire gets a ring-terminal crimped onto the end and this ring-terminal connects onto any one of the three A/C leads.

It also has a calibration screw.


This style makes for a neater hook-up, but requires one remove the alternator to access the insides.

 

[travelinman31]

KNUCKLEDRAGGER, if he doesn't take the tach I'd be interested!!!!!