Ring and pinion front Bearing Not a slip fit

[rlb245]

I finally got the master install kit for my new ring and pinion gear. But of course the **** starts to go to hell. I pull out the pinion to check it all out and everything looked ok but!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! the front bearing according to everything I have read hear should be a slip fit. Well it's not!!!!!!!. So any idea's. This is a Temken kit ordered through Advanced Auto so I can go to them to see if they ordered the right set up

 

[LCAM-01XA]

By front bearing you mean the other one, by the driveshaft yoke, correct? It is a slip fit, just not a loose slip fit. It's very tight actually. But definitely not a press fit. Do verify with AdvanceAuto that they got you the correct kit tho.

 

[rlb245]

Ok I see. When some one say's slip fit. I assume the bearing slides easily on the shaft. If it's a static fit then it can be driven on by a lead or brass hammer. Press fit is self explained. Ok so it's a static fit. I'll check with Advanced Auto tomorrow. I have to go over to the storage unit and get out the mic's for this I guess. Look up the specs for the bearings and pinion and make sure there what there supposed to be.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Why not just compare old and new bearings? Also no, it's not quite what you call a static fit - it is a slip fit, may need some slight persuasion to get the bearing to start on the pinion but even so we're talking light taps just to start the bearing sliding down the pinion shaft. It's been a while since I did my Sterling so I don't recall if it was a single tap or two or three, but I do remember it wasn't any significant force involved... Make sure the bearing is perfectly squared on the pinion shaft, it's quite sensitive to that actually.

 

[rlb245]

I'll be allot more comfortable after I mic everything and see what the clearance's are between the shaft and the bearings. I plan to use the old front bearing for getting the setup close. If it slides on easy! and if it doesn't I'll make it slide on.

 

[icanfixall]

If you warm up the bearing in the oven to no higher than 250 degrees it will grow enough to easliy slip on. Just make sure its installed where you want it before it cools down to the shaft temp. Might want to have something holding it in place too so it does not grow up off the seating placement.

 

[riotwarrior]

Are you doing a crush sleeve eliminator kit too????

 

[rlb245]

Returned the kit. It was the wrong one of course. Yes riotwarrior I'm not using the crush sleeve. I makes sense to me. I think it will make for a easier setup. Like I said I've done allot of reading here and with the input here, if you can turn a wrench you can getter done. I can't thank the people on this forum enough for all the help and knowledge I've recieved. I just hope that i can some how help contribute to my new found home and friends.

 

[lindstromjd]

Honestly, I don't see why people hate the crush sleeve. It actually eliminates work for you when you're doing a gear swap. To have an eliminator kit, you'll be dealing with spacers on the pinion. That means you'll be putting it together, taking it apart, and re-doing it until you get the right pinion depth on your ring gear. The crush sleeve you just tighten until the pinion sits where you want it to. I just did my rear end on my '94, and honestly it couldn't have been easier, especially for me never having done a differential before. If I had to deal with the extra spacers, I don't think I would have wanted to tackle the job without a lot more experience.

 

[riotwarrior]

Honestly, I don't see why people hate the crush sleeve. It actually eliminates work for you when you're doing a gear swap. To have an eliminator kit, you'll be dealing with spacers on the pinion. That means you'll be putting it together, taking it apart, and re-doing it until you get the right pinion depth on your ring gear. The crush sleeve you just tighten until the pinion sits where you want it to. I just did my rear end on my '94, and honestly it couldn't have been easier, especially for me never having done a differential before. If I had to deal with the extra spacers, I don't think I would have wanted to tackle the job without a lot more experience.

Glad that all worked out for you and you got it together just fine.

Now you have more experience since you have put one together....thus for a CS it's just take it apart put together till it is correctly shimmed...NO BIG DEAL, however those CS can and do at times loose tension and or allow the pinion nut to back off which they are known to do. This then allows the pinion to walk into the carrier and subsequently eff the differential. That is not something I'm looking forward too.

Having seen what that can mean...ya..I'll pass.

Oh ya to the OP, you can get shouldered bolts for a D70 IIRC and increase strength/reliability of your diff too by replacing ring gear bolts. LCAM knows which ones IIRC.....

Passes talking stick to LCAM for more advice...

Al

 

[icanfixall]

If and when I do a gear change I will be using the shim replacer shims and I plan on replacing the ring bolts. Making a mistake in there is costly.

 

[rlb245]

lindstromjd I no what you mean about it being easy but I'm of the opinion that riotwarrior is right on this one. I've never been one for easy and to quote my father (any job worth doing is worth doing the right way) Dam old Kentuckians voice keeps rattling around in my head. I want to do this one time and do it right.

riotwarrior; I would like that like to those bolt replacements. It sounds like a winner in my book.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Honestly, I don't see why people hate the crush sleeve. It actually eliminates work for you when you're doing a gear swap. To have an eliminator kit, you'll be dealing with spacers on the pinion. That means you'll be putting it together, taking it apart, and re-doing it until you get the right pinion depth on your ring gear. The crush sleeve you just tighten until the pinion sits where you want it to. I just did my rear end on my '94, and honestly it couldn't have been easier, especially for me never having done a differential before. If I had to deal with the extra spacers, I don't think I would have wanted to tackle the job without a lot more experience.

That's actually not true, the only thing the spacers or crush sleeve affect is bearings preload - pinion depth is still determined by a shim, either between inner bearing and pinion head (Sterlings are like that) or between housing and inner bearing race (Dana 60 for instance). So if you're installing new gears and need to set the depth all over, I'll take the solid spacer and shims over the crush sleeve any day. You don't wanna know how may times I had the pinion out when regearing my d60 front, can't imagine doing the same with crush sleeves...

rlb245, the ring gear bolts are for a D70 axle, JBG carries them in sets of 12 (which is correct for a Sterling too) for like $10. They have serrated edges to bite into the carrier better than factory bolts, heads are also bigger (3/4" factory, 13/16" D70), and they are of stronger material as well. They also fit front D60 axles, possibly rear one as well but I can't confirm that from personal experience. I'll get you the part number & link tomorrow.

 

[rlb245]

Thank you LCAM-01XA! for your input and another pre thank you for the link to the hardware. I was going to take the old girl to the 7th annual rally at Easton Lake but there's to much to do with the rear end not being done, the injectors still to do and new oil pump, Looks like I'll take the old stand by. I'll have to take my 2000 Ford van.

 

[icanfixall]

Thank you LCAM-01XA! for your input and another pre thank you for the link to the hardware. I was going to take the old girl to the 7th annual rally at Easton Lake but there's to much to do with the rear end not being done, the injectors still to do and new oil pump, Looks like I'll take the old stand by. I'll have to take my 2000 Ford van.

Why are you replacing the oil pump. If your thinking it worn out and thats why you have low oil pressure stop there. 99% of the time the low oil pressure is from a bad oil pressure regulating valve spring thats found in the rear header of the oil cooler.Sadly they are not replaceable. So we get to buy a new rear header. Thats the header the oil filter screws onto.These springs wear on the valve and flatten out the coils in the spring. Shimming will do nothing because the spring is no longer strong enough to make the pressure required.