Return line from ip

[Scrench]

Hello everyone new member to the forum here I have done a lot of reading and have not found the answer to the question I have. And I apologize if it's here somewhere.
I have an 84 f250 with the 6.9. I bought a new sending unit for the rear tank and low and behold it's identical. .except for one thing. It doesn't have a return line connection only has one for the feed line. So I'm thinking about just drilling a hole in it and running the return line all the way to the bottom of the tank so it will remain submerged in fuel. Will this prevent air from bleeding back. It's just an old farm truck going to use it for drinking beer and chasing cows in the pastures. . Scored a great deal on it. 600 bucks and has 184 k on it. Currently have the ip disassembled waiting on seal parts. Also have a question about the pilot sleeve should the shaft have any wobble to it when it is in the housing. Thanks

 

[IDIBRONCO]

going to use it for drinking beer and chasing cows in the pastures

I hope you don't do these at the same time! I could picture some stupid things happening if I tried that. Especially if I had some one along to hold my beer!

 

[IDIBRONCO]

There's really no pressure on the returning fuel so air shouldn't get back up into that line.

 

[Scrench]

I kinda thought the same thing thank you

 

[Scrench]

I hope you don't do these at the same time! I could picture some stupid things happening if I tried that. Especially if I had some one along to hold my beer!

It is multi tasking

 

[IDIBRONCO]

It is multi tasking

In that case, I hope you don't spill your beer. That's alcohol abuse!

 

[Scrench]

In that case, I hope you don't spill your beer. That's alcohol abuse!

Only one thing better than a cold beer and that's Ole ford with a 69 in it

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Can't argue much with that one.

 

[Scrench]

Update on my first stanadyne re seal job. It was a success only had 2 problems, I had my work bench spotless clean had my stainless steel assembly pan spotless right beneath some of my wood working tools big mistake no.1
so while slipping the orange umbrella seal on I tore it so I decided to use one of the black ones in its place. Proceeded to the point of about 75 percent of completion and reached up to adjust my light and knocked my jig saw down and it landed dead center of everything that I had layed out and covered my entire bench with saw dust. So I completely disassemble and re clean every thing and put it back together. Put it back on and soaked a rag with mixed gas and it popped right off runs like a top.
My question is why is one umbrella seal orange it appears to me it made of the same material as the black ones the orange one felt as if it was a little dry rotted to begin with?

 

[Macrobb]

Update on my first stanadyne re seal job. It was a success only had 2 problems, I had my work bench spotless clean had my stainless steel assembly pan spotless right beneath some of my wood working tools big mistake no.1
so while slipping the orange umbrella seal on I tore it so I decided to use one of the black ones in its place. Proceeded to the point of about 75 percent of completion and reached up to adjust my light and knocked my jig saw down and it landed dead center of everything that I had layed out and covered my entire bench with saw dust. So I completely disassemble and re clean every thing and put it back together. Put it back on and soaked a rag with mixed gas and it popped right off runs like a top.
My question is why is one umbrella seal orange it appears to me it made of the same material as the black ones the orange one felt as if it was a little dry rotted to begin with?

The orange one is a different material; I think it's for oil instead of fuel? (One of those three seals faces towards the front of the shaft, to keep oil out).

As for doing what you did... I've done that before. I don't have the special seal tool, for installing those orange seals properly. Now I don't know how long it will last, but I haven't seen any obvious issues. I'm not daily-driving that IP, though(it's on a different rig).

 

[Scrench]

The orange one is a different material; I think it's for oil instead of fuel? (One of those three seals faces towards the front of the shaft, to keep oil out).

As for doing what you did... I've done that before. I don't have the special seal tool, for installing those orange seals properly. Now I don't know how long it will last, but I haven't seen any obvious issues. I'm not daily-driving that IP, though(it's on a different rig).

Thank you for your reply.
I had a feeling that it was made of different stuff. It's just an old farm truck won't be driven a tremendous amount. I did put them on the shaft the correct directions . Hopefully it will last a while. So if the seal does fail what is your opinion on what the outcome would be . Leak diesel out of the weep hole?
Thanks

 

[Macrobb]

Thank you for your reply.
I had a feeling that it was made of different stuff. It's just an old farm truck won't be driven a tremendous amount. I did put them on the shaft the correct directions . Hopefully it will last a while. So if the seal does fail what is your opinion on what the outcome would be . Leak diesel out of the weep hole?
Thanks

Leak engine oil out the weep hole I'd wager. Not that there's a whole lot of pressure on it either way(just crankcase pressure / dripped oil seeping along the shaft).

 

[Scrench]

Another update
Put clear line on both sides of the tank switcher no bubbles out of tank lines
Other side of tank switch bubbles
Removed tank switch and smashed with 10 pound sledge

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Removed tank switch and smashed with 10 pound sledge

I really thought about doing this when I bypassed mine, but I left it there so I could leave the wires plugged in and use the fuel gauge.

 

[Scrench]

I just grounded out the wires one at a time until the fuel Guage buryed the needle and ran it to the sender. Grounded it through my test light