retorqueing heads before turbo kit?

troupp

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I see in Hypermax's instructions, it says to retorque the heads before installing the turbo kit, how many of you guys have actually done this to old gaskets and not had problems?
 

Agnem

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I don't believe in it, and feel that it cannot be done properly due to lack of lubrication on the threads and bolt head/washer. The most I would attempt to do is just to make sure the bolts are unabled to be tightened using the recommended torque setting.
 

Cheaper Jeeper

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I don't believe in it, and feel that it cannot be done properly due to lack of lubrication on the threads and bolt head/washer. The most I would attempt to do is just to make sure the bolts are unabled to be tightened using the recommended torque setting.

And if they are able to be tightened (they are below torque spec) then what? I guess I don't understand - either what you are saying Mel, or what re-torquing means.

To me re-torquing would mean setting your click-torque to the specified torque setting, and applying it to all the bolts. Not setting it to a higher setting and torquing them down higher than spec. Just torquing any of them that have stretched or loosened a little back up to spec.

I'm really interested in the group's opinion on this since I have my valve covers off right now - this would be the time to do it....
 

icanfixall

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I don't feel retorqueing the head bolts will do anything for you based of the simple psychics of torque over time and lube. The bolts have heated up and cooled many cycles. The lube is gone so the torque will be higher just to get them to move but... Give it a try and post back... I know when I was working in the steam generation plants the torque required to break loose a stud or bolt was much higher that the final torque used so lets see what happens on your motor... Is the bolt twisting or stretching now???
 

1dieselman

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I've done it on several different engines gas and diesel. I don't feel that there is ever a problem with re torquing because oil is always getting to the treads and under bolt heads through seepage. I have yet to ever pull a engine down for overhaul and there not be oil all over the bolts.
 

icanfixall

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I have pulled down many gas motors and only 4 idi motors. I have founs "some" oil on the bolts but... Those were in the valve cover area. Outside of that they were dry. Even some were rusted tight so go ahead and try to retorque... If you can. I still will say this about that... What is the torque going to be on a head where some bolts are "stuck" and some are loose.... You can do the math and the regasketing when an uneven torque is applied to a specialized head that has... oh lets say around 450 to 530 lbs of compression... Its your motor and I post from my experiances... Not yours... I also know sometimes we have to go out on the edge to find out what can be done... What are the limits....:dunno
 

troupp

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So far the concensus(?) is to leave it alone till it blows the gaskets--- At least that's what I make of it so far right?
 

typ4

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I would not retorque. If you had one loose enough to turn ,it would be causing problems already.
 

diesel4me2

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i thought they said AFTER 3000 miles re-torque them. but who knows :D
 

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Diesel JD

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I didn't retorque either, so far so good, but only have about 13,000 miles with the turbo and 12psi is the max boost I've seen thus far.
 

Cheaper Jeeper

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Yeah, I'm kinda' leaning towards the idea of "letting sleeping dogs lie" on this one. I'd like to set my torque wrench say 1 or 2 ft-lbs higher than spec and hit 'em all one time. But the talk about uneven lube resulting in uneven torque makes sense and kinda' makes me leary of giving it a try...
 

MUDKICKR

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warranty issue? maybe if you blow a head gasket they will blame it on a bolt that was somewhat loose?
 

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