reasons for #1 injector not screwing in...

[Morgonzo]

Hey all, so i'm putting Russ' injectors in today (stoked..) and have gotten them all in and torqued, except the number 1. Just does not seem to want to catch on the threads. I'm taking a break for lunch and re-assesment.

Let me know what y'all think I might be doing wrong. There's no crush washer in there..only the one on the injector.

Thanks

 

[IDIoit]

carbon on the hole of the head not letting the injector sink.
id bet thats your issue.

 

[Morgonzo]

carbon on the hole of the head not letting the injector sink.
id bet thats your issue.

Thanks...I went into the hole with my little gun cleaning brush (perfect size..) and got some out but I'll go back and give it the business....won't be running that brush through the rifle again that's fer sure....

 

[IDIoit]

may need something more stiffer, like a Phillips screw driver.

 

[OLDBULL8]

If the old one came out OK, then check new injector for a damaged 1st thread.

 

[icanfixall]

Some times the new injector hex will contact the edge of the valve cover causing it to not thread into the head. If this is not what you posted about I suspect the hard line is giving fits screwing on to the injector. If that is a problem loosen the Rotunda timing adapter a few threads and then try the hard line on the loose adapter. Many times a loose adapter allows an easier connection. Trying to rebend the hard line so it fits better can be a ruff job but I have done it a few times. Might also loosen the other lines on that side of the engine so there is more free movement to connect number 1 line. Those vibration clamps do a fine job of keeping thing tight...

 

[IDIoit]

Some times the new injector hex will contact the edge of the valve cover causing it to not thread into the head. If this is not what you posted about I suspect the hard line is giving fits screwing on to the injector. If that is a problem loosen the Rotunda timing adapter a few threads and then try the hard line on the loose adapter. Many times a loose adapter allows an easier connection. Trying to rebend the hard line so it fits better can be a ruff job but I have done it a few times. Might also loosen the other lines on that side of the engine so there is more free movement to connect number 1 line. Those vibration clamps do a fine job of keeping thing tight...

ive never been able to do injectors with the VC's on, good catch....

 

[Morgonzo]

Thanks guy's, I got her in. I had to pull 'em anyway to do the o-rings..(baby steps..) and scrubbed those bores good. After getting the o-rings on, went back and tried that injector in a different bore, it worked and the other injector worked in the #1 bore. Yeah, my VC's are on and it's tight fit in there sometimes but I got it and she's torqued down. Now to to the drivers side.

Does that adapter on #1 have to be torqued to any specifics? Of is it just tight?

Glad the wifey came back from the store with some beer...gonna be easier with the right lubrication!

 

[IDIoit]

same torque as injector lines.

 

[Morgonzo]

Whew, i'm done for the night. It's getting cold out there. I got all the injectors w/o-rings in and torqued, caps and lines on and clamps tightened. I'll leave the rest for the next time. What size bolt do you guy's use for blocking off the return line to the filter. Don't bother if you have to hunt for it, i'm gonna go match one up to the hose in a couple of days. Just figured if you had it off the top of your head...
I also have to buy an open ended wrench to fit the hard line from the LP to the FH so I can change that olive. I'm gonna delete the fuel heater in the next go-round. I've already bought the tap and plug and the JB Weld...just gotta dig into it.

 

[Morgonzo]

Ok, so i just realized I messed up and have to switch out #1 and #7 caps to put the dead-end where it should be. I'm looking at Conestoga's routing diagram, and that's the route i'm gonna take. I don't remember where I first read about deleting the line from the filter to #1, but it must have been on one of those "other" forums because almost everybody on here seems to say it's an important line. I just thought that the dead-end was for #1...not 7.
I know it's a noob thing, but a small sheet with the routing diagram would be nice included with all kits...maybe with the factory route, Alt#1 alt#2 ect....

Seems like a simple thing to include...but what do i know, I'm a musician.

 

[crash-harris]

...but what do i know, I'm a musician.

Me too (used to be), but mechanics pays more

 

[Morgonzo]

Me too (used to be), but mechanics pays more

Hey, at least you went in the right direction. I went from being a full-time musician to being a stay-at-home dad which pay even worse if thats possible.