Rear axle set up

rustygold

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Something about fresh painted part that always look good

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austin92

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Now if only it stayed that shiny


1983 f350 6.9 zf5 2wd srw single cab long bed. Facet duralift, optima red tops, bfg all terrains, 4" exhaust from y pipe back, autometer z series pyro, pump turned up 2 flats
 

rustygold

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I would put some so enamel on it if it can handle the heat

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austin92

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Can I use a click style torque wrench and accurately measure pinion bearing preload?


1983 f350 6.9 zf5 2wd srw single cab long bed. Facet duralift, optima red tops, bfg all terrains, 4" exhaust from y pipe back, autometer z series pyro, pump turned up 2 flats
 

subway

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I would use a beam style torque wrench or a regular wrench with a fish weight scale.

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austin92

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Well I've checked all auto part stores, sears, harbor freight, lowes, menards, and asked friends and I can't find anything besides clicker torque wrenches in inch pounds. I like the wrench and fish scale idea, is that accurate? How do the ounces convert to inch pounds? Would you guys think I could trust the postal service with a precision instrument like that if I ordered one online?


1983 f350 6.9 zf5 2wd srw single cab long bed. Facet duralift, optima red tops, bfg all terrains, 4" exhaust from y pipe back, autometer z series pyro, pump turned up 2 flats
 

subway

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Ok here is how I do it.

First the pinion should be pointed straight at the sky so gravity is not throwing off your measurement.

Next put a wrench on the pinion and measure out one foot from the center of the pinion. This is where you will place the fish scale. Placing the scale here will give you 1 foot/lb of torque when you measure 1 lb on the scale. You can move it around but keeping it at one foot put on the wrench keeps the math easy.

Now the torque is probably specified in in/lbs. To convert just divide the in/lb by 12 and it will give you foot/lbs.

So if you have a range of 16 to 32 in/lbs to hit (made up numbers for example) if you get it between 1.3 and 2.7 lbs on the scale you are good to go.

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79jasper

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Unless something changed in the last few weeks, I see beam torque wrenches literally all the time.
Quick question, do you know what it looks like?
http://m.autozone.com/wrenches-plie...2-in-drive-torque-wrench/914019_0_0?location=
3/8 and 1/2 available at honey Creek mall.
http://m.sears.com/search=beam%20wrench?storeOrigin=Sears&Price=0$-100000&filterList=storeOrigin%7C&sortOption=ORIGINAL_SORT_ORDER&levels=Tools%7CWrenches%7CTorque%20Wrenches%20%26%20Sets

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rustygold

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I would try to find a beam torque you don't wat to trash new gears.

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austin92

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Ok here is how I do it.

First the pinion should be pointed straight at the sky so gravity is not throwing off your measurement.

Next put a wrench on the pinion and measure out one foot from the center of the pinion. This is where you will place the fish scale. Placing the scale here will give you 1 foot/lb of torque when you measure 1 lb on the scale. You can move it around but keeping it at one foot put on the wrench keeps the math easy.

Now the torque is probably specified in in/lbs. To convert just divide the in/lb by 12 and it will give you foot/lbs.

So if you have a range of 16 to 32 in/lbs to hit (made up numbers for example) if you get it between 1.3 and 2.7 lbs on the scale you are good to go.

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Makes sense now, thank you

Unless something changed in the last few weeks, I see beam torque wrenches literally all the time.
Quick question, do you know what it looks like?
http://m.autozone.com/wrenches-plie...2-in-drive-torque-wrench/914019_0_0?location=
3/8 and 1/2 available at honey Creek mall.
http://m.sears.com/search=beam%20wrench?storeOrigin=Sears&Price=0$-100000&filterList=storeOrigin%7C&sortOption=ORIGINAL_SORT_ORDER&levels=Tools%7CWrenches%7CTorque%20Wrenches%20%26%20Sets

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I know what a beam style torque wrench is and all the ones I have found locally are in ft lbs. I do see them everywhere, just not in inch lbs



1983 f350 6.9 zf5 2wd srw single cab long bed. Facet duralift, optima red tops, bfg all terrains, 4" exhaust from y pipe back, autometer z series pyro, pump turned up 2 flats
 

austin92

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Found a torque wrench and of coarse the only adapter I don't own is 1/4-3/8. One last tool and I should be able to start setting up the gears lol. Last night I did keep busy though, I seated the ring gear on the truetrac, pressed on the carrier bearings, and honed out the old pinion bearing to use as a set up bearing. I did compare the old bearing to the new one with a set of calipers and they were only a few thousands off on all the areas I checked. One question I do have is once I get a good pattern, how can I press the new inner pinion bearing on when the cage sticks out past the inner part of the bearing? I can't use the arbor plates like I did with the carrier bearings or it will destroy the cage. I was thinking a section of pipe but I didn't know if it can handle the pressure. I'll get some pictures up later


1983 f350 6.9 zf5 2wd srw single cab long bed. Facet duralift, optima red tops, bfg all terrains, 4" exhaust from y pipe back, autometer z series pyro, pump turned up 2 flats
 

79jasper

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Wasn't trying to insult your intelligence with the torque wrench question.
Pipe would work. Can also heat the bearing so it slides on easier.

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austin92

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Wasn't trying to insult your intelligence with the torque wrench question.
Pipe would work. Can also heat the bearing so it slides on easier.

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Wasn't trying to say you were man, no worries. I tried the heat trick with the carrier bearings, even put the diff n the freezer, they wouldn't budge. Figured pinion bearing would be just as tight. So do you think a small section of exhaust tubing would be strong enough? I wouldn't know where to look for any other thickness of steel tubing


1983 f350 6.9 zf5 2wd srw single cab long bed. Facet duralift, optima red tops, bfg all terrains, 4" exhaust from y pipe back, autometer z series pyro, pump turned up 2 flats
 

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