question about A/C self adjusting orifce tube

RLDSL

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Is that on max cooling with fan on high? And what refrigerant?

Yup and with windows rolled up doors closed and kept closed as much as possible and if you have an old box fan you don't like, rig that sucker up in front of the condenser to get more air flowing across the condenser to mimic road speed . This is with r134a. It is possible to get 33 deg f duct temps with r134a ( I could get them bunches colder if I felt like it, but then the evaporator would ice, anf the things would start blowing hot and it would be back to square one, I always set them to cycle at 33 deg. it's a combination of adjusting refrigerant pressure and adjusting the cutout switch down to a lower pressure for r134a
 

RLDSL

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Anothert thing, it's not uncommon to see low side pressures up around 65 or more while teh system is balancing out liquid and gas in the system, remember the vov loweres head pressure on teh high side, which can make for funky readings on teh low side , especially while charging and teh refrigerant isn't quite sure what state it wants to be in . If you haven't reached cold and comfy yet, these pressures don't mean stop, and disconnect, they just mean sit there and high idle a while while the system balances out, you will find that it settles out and you need to add a bunch more where you thought that you were overcharged. THis is why you always add only a little at a time so you know that you haven't passed your cold point.
 

DaytonaBill

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Very interesting... I use ES-12... In 85 degree temps in Fla, I get air from the vents initially around sixty and after about ten minutes of driving, it's down to about forty three. I've seen it all the way down to thirty eight a couple of times before.

That's recirculation and wide open @ eighty five degrees. I do have a VOV and it's beginning to look like I need to adjust the cycle switch some, it's for r-12...

I sure hope this doesn't devolve into a thread bashing the use of HC's. This was just an experiment and I didn't realize the cans of ES-12 were filled one third of the volume with dye, so now I'm operating the system with one third less refrigerants than it was supposed to have.

For this particular application with the use of ES-12, I would not use a VOV because, it seems, it is not designed for the use of HC's. I believe this stuff requires an even smaller orifice than the VOV (rated up to 105 degrees) provides. This stuff has different properties than 134A and results in lower operating pressures than R-12 or R-134A... To me, this equates to longer life spans for the compressor. Theoretically, this should equate to better fuel mileage...
 

suggs

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Charge by your high side and ambient temp, not low side.

With a VOV or variable orfice, the name does as it implies, it changes the orfice size to maintain evaporator saturation which means you can OVERCHARGE and your low side stays the same. Its the same thing for expansion valve vehicles.

40 psi is what i like to see on a 90 degree day on the low side.



When the

35-40 / 225-245 on a r134a vehicle. 245 is TOPS, anything really over that and its gonna chew compressors up and vehicle cooling is impared.



When the

VOV is used on say most any Vehicle AC unit do we Always charge from the High side port instead of the Low side port? As I understand the adjustable size or length of it Causes the change of How we charge.
 
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MIDNIGHT RIDER

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I don't think it would be advisable to connect a refrigerant can to the high-side port, unless you want a can to blow up in your face.

I can only speak from my own experiences.

I have had nothing but costly bad experiences and marginal cooling with variable orifice valves (VOV); it may just be me, but I have never experienced the dramatic cooling gains from a VOV.

My best cooling performance yet has been with a simple two-dollar RED orifice tube and much lower pressures/volume than commonly recommended.

When charging, the gauge I pay most attention to is the milk-hauler thermometer that stays stuck in my dash-vent; regardless of what the high- and low-side gauges may say, I am after the coldest reading I can achieve in the cab of the truck.



Also, for what it's worth, I have a printout from somewhere or other that states for my un-molested 1985 F-series factory-A/C, with O.E.M. specification condenser, evaporator, compressor, etc., recommended R134a refrigerant charge is 44 ounces.

I get much better cooling with only 36 ounces.
 
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