Q for those that have deleted the factory fuel header

[The_Josh_Bear]

What have you done to purge air that gets into the lines?
I have run the stock setup without the little return line to the injector caps for some months but it really wasnt great. If you missed the fuel tank switch on a hill it just air locked and you were screwed for a bit. With that line hooked up on the same hill itll sputter but make it through.

I am finally switching to a frame-mount filter but now every bit of air pumped through the line will go to the IP. Thoughts/pictures/examples welcome!

 

[Thewespaul]

The easiest and cheapest option is just to crack open the inlet to the ip until the air is purged. Even with air in the lines the e pump will push it through pretty quick.

The pricey answer is to get a fuel block like this...https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/263533933872

And screw in all of your factory sensors from the stock filter head, along with the schrader valve so you can purge all the air. Mount it on the firewall so it’s the highest point in your fuel system.

 

[MtnHaul]

Just curious here but what is/are the primary advantage/s of deleting the factory fuel header? Any issues with damage to frame mounted setup when in rough terrain/off-road?

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

Just curious here but what is/are the primary advantage/s of deleting the factory fuel header? Any issues with damage to frame mounted setup when in rough terrain/off-road?

For me it comes down to having space under the hood. I tried and tried but cant get the stock turbo airbox to work with my charge air piping. So after much toil i got a BHAF and will have nice clean air for 75-100k. It takes up a lot of space!

Most frame mount setups seem to be strictly over the road and dont worry about dragging it on stuff... but I specifically tucked mine up next to the transfer case skid plate. If anything hurts my filter I have much bigger problems, lol!

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You can see now why I have no room for the fuel filter.

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

The easiest and cheapest option is just to crack open the inlet to the ip until the air is purged. Even with air in the lines the e pump will push it through pretty quick.

The pricey answer is to get a fuel block like this...https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/263533933872

And screw in all of your factory sensors from the stock filter head, along with the schrader valve so you can purge all the air. Mount it on the firewall so it’s the highest point in your fuel system.

Thanks Wes. I'll look around for a fuel block, I'm surprised they would cost that much for what they are. It's not so much about cracking a line but having a constant return that catches and returns air if'n it gets sucked up by the lift pump.

I would think a high gph pump with a regulated return would do the same thing if hooked up right. Which may be on the menu since this Facet cant keep up.

 

[MtnHaul]

Which may be on the menu since this Facet cant keep up.

What model Facet you running?

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

40222. 9-11psi max drops to about 2psi under load. Cruises at 6-7psi so it certainly gets the job done. Not good for WOT timing wise as you know.
Thinking out loud--
I was looking at the facet during my filter relocation and I have a hard 90* turn leading into the pump. I wonder if making that a straight fitting would help with flow. Like on the top I just used a straight piece of 1/8 pipe, seems to have a larger ID than most of those fittings but I haven't looked at them real closely. But taking the bend out might help.

 

[BioFarmer93]

What have you done to purge air that gets into the lines?
I have run the stock setup without the little return line to the injector caps for some months but it really wasnt great. If you missed the fuel tank switch on a hill it just air locked and you were screwed for a bit. With that line hooked up on the same hill itll sputter but make it through.

I am finally switching to a frame-mount filter but now every bit of air pumped through the line will go to the IP. Thoughts/pictures/examples welcome!

I run two fuel filters, one down on the frame rail just before the fuel pump, with shut off valves on either side to prevent siphoning when changing filters, and one on the backside of the original under-hood bracket because I went with a completely different header. It has no heater, no Schrader valve, and no return port. On the outflow side of that header are two connected tees, the first with a valved output to a hose so I can clear air or give someone some fuel, the second tee goes to the IP and to a bushed down 1/8" compression fitting for the 1/8" nylon tube that runs to my hood mounted fuel pressure gauge. I got rid of the remains of the shower head fuel pickups long ago, and replaced the entire unit, but unbent the two 90°'s in the pickup pipe so that it was 1/8" from the tank bottom. I safety wired a double layer of 316L stainless bug screen over the end to keep any big chunks out. Neither one of my fuel gauge senders work, but I know from experience that the front tank is good for 205 miles and the rear for 165 miles. So, like you, I switch tanks if I'm low on the current tank when I have to go up or down a long grade, but for the most part I like to keep both tanks closer to full than empty.. Oh, one last thing, I think having a second fuel filter adds a bit of an "already-in-line-fuel-resource" for those long grades if I forget to swap tanks.