Project CrewCab

[ifrythings]

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Front end pretty much in, just need to drop the engine in center the axle and mount the tracbar bracket.

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Got the box pulled and sold, rear-end striped down and gasser stuff gone, lines, wiring, tanks and shocks all removed and of course found more cracks in the frame... not sure if I should reinforce this area after I weld it up, it's the front box mounting hole in the frame.

 

[ifrythings]

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Old cab mounts vs new cab mounts, this should help keep the cab from rubbing on the frame.

Had to swap out the back crossmember to one in better shape as where the rubber mounts sat was rusted pretty thin.

 

[ifrythings]

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Started putting in the front fuel tank, I belive this is a 22 gallon plastic tank which was a factory option on some trucks, I got this off of a 90 f350 diesel truck and it bolts on just like it was ment to be.

Also got the dash pulled out and wiring stripped off and ready to modify to work with the diesel engine harness. Got the brake pedal swapped over to the hydroboost pedal and mounted the hydroboost and clutch master cylinder.

Next on the list is bend the firewall seam back and get the engine in from my other truck and start wiring and routing fuel lines.

 

[ifrythings]

Got a bit more done with the truck over the past week, my girlfriend, brother and I pushed the truck out of the overhang and in front of the donor truck for the engine swap.

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Pulled the front clip off and lifted the engine out and fought the engine hoist across the ground till we got the engine in.

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Then came the painful task of pushing the truck back into the overhang which the truck did not want to move nicely with the extra 1,000 lbs in the front.

Later I got the transmission, transfercase, crossmember and front driveshaft in, the rear driveshaft I got from the 06 f350 actually fit perfectly being it was from a 5.4 auto crewcab and this is a 7.3 zf5.

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All I needed for the rear driveshaft is new u-joints, new carrier bearing and one conversion u-joint going from a 1350 series to the 1410 series to couple to the transfercase.

Hoping to have the rear driveshaft in Friday and I have ordered some Russell fittings and braided high pressure line to finish off the power steering and that should be here tomorrow.

Hoping in a week's time I'll be able to fire up the engine and move it under it's own power again.

 

[crash-harris]

Where did you get a 1410 driveshaft and yokes?

 

[ifrythings]

Where did you get a 1410 driveshaft and yokes?

The rear driveshaft I got is from a 06 f350 with the 5.4l, auto, crewcab, long box. Both ends had flanges on them, I removed the flange at the transfer case end and got a Neapco 2-1435 conversion u-joint to go from 1350 to 1410.
I was told they do make a slip yoke for the bw1356 that accepts a 1410 u-joint but it's 3-4x more money then the conversion joint and I would have to still buy a u-joint.

Being I used the 06 rear axle the flange bolted right to it, I believe the flange off of the never axles (99-2010) will bolt onto the older Sterling 10.25 (93-97).

When I get the shaft rebuilt I'll post some good shots of how it fit.

 

[crash-harris]

Looks like I need to locate me one of those newer shafts. I've planned to go to 1410's for awhile and figured flanges would be the cheapest way to do it even. Thanks!

 

[laserjock]

I was told they do make a slip yoke for the bw1356 that accepts a 1410 u-joint but it's 3-4x more money then the conversion joint and I would have to still buy a u-joint.
.

I ended up with a conversion joint at the slip yoke because to my surprise and aggravation, it had the bigger yoke. So now my rear driveshaft takes 3 different joints. [emoji849]

 

[ifrythings]

Well got the rear driveshaft in after some fun with u-joints and the driveshaft center bearing.... a press would of made this a breeze! Anyways, got the driveshaft in and it fits perfectly and the angles look great, only issue is my transfercase seems to be too high and is wanting to mate with the crewcab floor.....

Not the best pics but it was raining when I finished putting the driveshaft in, if anyone wants better pics just ask.

Also where the center support bearing mounts, the holes are elongated so you can position the the driveshaft forward or rearward, I pushed the bearing as far backward so I had a bit of the slip yoke sticking out of the transfercase and I still have room in the driveshaft slip yoke for suspension travel.

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[crash-harris]

Guessing you're running a t-case with a slip yoke and 2-piece driveshaft because that's all you could get?

 

[ifrythings]

Guessing you're running a t-case with a slip yoke and 2-piece driveshaft because that's all you could get?

Yes the t-case is a slip yoke bw1356, it's the one I rebuilt in the donor truck. The driveshaft that I used from the 06 f350 was a perfect fit and didn't cost me anything so why not use it. If I can find a bw4407 for a good price I may swap that in if it's not any different length as this t-case is a piece of sh*t, I did a full rebuild including a new slip yoke, slip yoke bushing and seal and the stupid thing still leaks.

Also does anyone have a crewcab with the zf5 and bw1356 that could snap a pic and measurement of how close the yoke on the transfercase is to the bottom of the floor, mine is pretty much hitting a rib underneath and I don't know what's out of wack if it's the driveline or body mounts,

 

[ifrythings]

Been a bit since I last updated but I have some progress done.

Started to work on putting the 2016 rear springs in, the difference between the SD springs from 08 and up is they increased the length to provide a better ride, the obs springs were 25" front eye to center pin and 31.xx" center pin to rear eye. The SD springs are 33" front eye to center pin and 33" center pin to rear eye. At minimum you have to move the front hanger forward 8" to keep the axle centered and the rear could be left alone and just let the shackle take up the extra spring.

I decided to put in the superduty rear hanger and shackle as they a lot beefier then the obs ones and this way I didn't have to either trim the SD shackle to fit the obs hanger or cut up the obs shackle to fit the SD spring and the SD hanger moves the shackle back around an inch.

Here's where the old hanger sat and looked like.

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I reused the top left hole and drilled 3 new holes for the new hanger, it fits perfectly and it doesn't interfere with the bumper mounting at all.

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The old springs put in just so I could move the truck around.

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For the front I reused the obs hanger and moved it forward 8" and again reused the top left bolt hole of the old pattern for the new one. I also had to drill the hanger out to 3/4" to except the SD spring bolt.

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As you can see the spring is still centered perfectly and the SD overloads line up perfectly with the obs mounts (can't see it in this picture)

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They also switched the way the u-bolts go on the axle and the new bracket fits are axle with no issues.

 

[ifrythings]

What it looks like with the new springs in

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And the e-brake cables hooked up, just need a shorter intermediate cable and it should be all working

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All that's left for the rear is to put the box back on and torque everything to spec and finish the shock mounts on the axle.

Back to the front, I ended up ordering a new drop track bar bracket for a 2.5-3" lift, this helped get my track bar and drag link more parallel then the factory bracket and the factory bracket just didn't quite work with one of my bolt holes.

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New bracket

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And new vs oem

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[ifrythings]

Track bar bracket is in, not sure how to do the last 2 holes as they are on a bent area of the frame, I'm not even sure if they would help much or just make me more at ease with having 3 bolts in.

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I ended up bending the Track bar more then factory to get it parallel with the axle and it shortened it just enough that I don't need an adjustable track bar, picture is deceiving but it is pretty much parallel with the frame and axle.

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Made a new steering stabilizer bracket for the frame out of 3x3x1/4" angle iron.

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It fits nicely up there and I have just enough room that I don't bottom out or over extended the stabilizer from lock to lock.

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[ifrythings]

A few pictures of the steering linkage lock to lock, nothing hits though a few things do get close to each other.

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Now I just have to finish up the wiring and running the brake lines and that should be the bulk of the project, I still have a bunch of body work and cosmetics to work on but at least I can get back to driving the truck, been over a year since I last drove an idi and I still need to break in my rebuilt engine!