Project Big Red

[79jasper]

I believe you have them reversed.
Pretty sure rear is rear, front is front.
I know the residual valve is supposed to be for the rear brakes.

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[laserjock]

That's what I think based on the one picture I have.

 

[crash-harris]

Yup, rear line on MC is rear brakes (to ABS unit) and forward line on MC is for front brakes. You're parts truck should have the tee fitting and the bracket then if it is indeed just a year thing. Like I said, I've never seen any F-series trucks that used the fitting at the hose, they all use the brass tee fitting that you seem to be missing.

 

[laserjock]

I'll try to make my way out there but I'm just sure it doesn't have it. If it does, I'll pull it and move it over maybe.

 

[biggin92]

They changed in 1990 to the t fitting at the brake hose . Front line goes into back of brake hose tee. Then the line from the right front plumbs straight in through the frame into the tee. Then the rear line comes out of the mc and into the r.a.b.s unit. Then out to the rear axle. Hope maybe this helps.

 

[laserjock]

They changed in 1990 to the t fitting at the brake hose . Front line goes into back of brake hose tee. Then the line from the right front plumbs straight in through the frame into the tee. Then the rear line comes out of the mc and into the r.a.b.s unit. Then out to the rear axle. Hope maybe this helps.

If that is true that makes sense with what I have. Thanks!

 

[laserjock]

Okay. Sorted the brake lines out with your guys help and trudging through the snow to the parts truck.

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Had to twist the front line around a little and needed an adapter for the RABS on the other line. Think we are all good there now. May tweak things a bit once I put the inner fenders and such in.

With that sorted, time to get the front brakes done.

Got my helper out to give me a hand.

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You couldn't have beat the smile off my face with a hammer.

I pulled the hubs off and knocked the lugs out with the air hammer. Best thing ever!!! All 8 out in less than a minute. Hit them with a wire wheel.

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Cleaned up pretty good and then I primed and painted them.

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I also primed and painted the brake calipers. Don't know how well it will hold up but what the hell.

Next up, I need grease seals and I'll pull the races and such out of the hubs and repack and put the disks on I'll probably pick up new studs. Randomly, the drivers side disk had been changed pretty recently but the pass side was really worn.

Found the ebrake cables so as soon as the front is back together, I'll dive into the rear.

 

[junk]

Sweet! Looks like your raising the helper right. Get em started early!

Funny how much ford changed the brake lines. I had the same conundrum on my 89. I looked at all sorts of different trucks and everyone of them was different.

- Jeremy

 

[laserjock]

Wow, I started in today chasing parts as usual. Forgot the seals for the hubs and needed grease. So I picked up a dedicated grease gun for my Valvoline synthetic wheel bearing grease and bearing packer.

I knocked the races and seals out of the hubs and started putting it all back together. An old rotor makes a great stand to work on it.

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I priced wheel studs because I was thinking about replacing them all. That was going to be expensive. So I cleaned them up and they look pretty good.

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Here's the bearings I used. They are NTN. At least they were made in USA.

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And here's the seals.

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And the finished product.

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I have to go dig out the locking hubs and I'll have the front end done. I'll be ready to do the rear. The sticky bit of the rear is I have a wheel seal to change on the pass side while I'm at it.

The other caliper is drying. Maybe I'll get it on tonight. Maybe not.

 

[riotwarrior]

Nice....those stock rubber flex lines or are they a braided stainless

 

[laserjock]

Stock replacements. Raybestos I think. Might have been Wagner. Bought from Amazon.

Paint was still too sticky so off to bed.

 

[laserjock]

Alright. Buttoned up the front. Need to order up the bolts and orings for the hubs and that will complete it.

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Pulled the rear hub off hoping for a quick seal change. Nope.
See this for details.

10.25 questions
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?t=75863

Here is a pic of the hub nut and socket you need just also for posterity.

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So now timken bearings are on order. Need to find seals. I pulled the cover and looked at the gears to make sure things were still good in there. Looks the same. Couple spots of surface rust but none on the mating surfaces so a little touch of scotchbrite and good to go. I'll pull the other wheel and do them both at the same time so it's good for the duration in theory.

One more thing on the list.

 

[riotwarrior]

Hows that CORRECT spindle nut socket work out for ya

 

[laserjock]

Hows that CORRECT spindle nut socket work out for ya

Like a shirt pocket Al.


So I ordered the SKF seals with the repair sleeve just because....I hadn't pulled the other side off. So I pulled the other side off. No disasters but I was nervous because there was evidence it had been apart before. Here's what I found.

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Spindle looks okay at first glance. Then I wiped it off and noticed this.

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Well these. There is a little ding where the bearing rides and a little ding in the edge of the step up to the seal surface left of my finger.

No disaster here but it's not perfect. I'll clean it up and buff the rough spots and go with it.

Got the bearings all in and they appear to be right. Just waiting on one more race and the seals and it can go back together. One hub is all torn down. Just need to do the other and start putting it back together.

 

[laserjock]

Well small progress.

I got the drivers spindle cleaned up.

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I got the hubs cleaned up and pressed the races in. This is the seal I used.

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It's an SKF seal I bought from rock auto but notice it says Scot seal plus XL and has CR stamped in it. Apparently Chicago Rawhide is making at least some of SKF seals. I have another couple I got from NAPA and they have CR stamped on them. Anyway, this is a neat seal. It installs by hand and it turns on itself. If it don't leak, I'll never buy anything else if I can help it. Big thumbs up.

Anyway, got the hubs back on. 65 ft lbs backed off 5 clicks as per the book. I did pack the bearings with grease.

Note to self, clicker torque wrench won't torque left hand thread nut. Crap. So on the drivers side I tightened it up and backed it of a click at a time until it was as close to the other side as I could. I may redo it which is why I didn't put the axles back in yet.

Pass

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Driver

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So I inventoried my brake hardware and realized I didn't have everything I needed. I need to pick up a pair of wheel cylinders and preferably a self adjuster kit for the drivers side and I hope a parking brake lever for the pass side. Worst case I'll rob it out of the other truck. Hope I can get new.