Paint Job on an 86

[runaway!]

Truth be told I have a hard time justifying spending more than a hundred bucks on a paint job, I could get more value by putting it into something that is functional. If I decided to spend more than this method would cost, it would be for a cheap maaco job.

Also considering I quite enjoy working on my IDI, it just seems my time is better spent doing this method than turning my 2 stall garage into a paint booth for one vehicle and still needing a ton a prep work for the spray job. Labor comes out even IMO.

 

[jhnlennon]

One thing I will tell you is that if you use implement paint or rust oleum and you let the truck sit in the sun alot, IT WILL FADE BAD! I have painted alot of stock cars and trailers and a few mud trucks with the stuff and it does not hold up to UV exposure. Just go to menards or harbor freight and buy urself a cheap gun(40 bucks) and you will be so much farther ahead. Rolling it on and all the sanding you gotta do to get it smooth isnt worth it. Just spray 3 coats on and call it done. Screw all that sanding. What are you really saving in the end? All that labor isnt worth the price of a cheap spray gun. And there is no way in hell I would take a car to maaco, I have seen some horror stories by them. There is a reason they are so cheap.

 

[Willie Two]

I just sprayed a fiberglass Bolar trailer using a $50.00 gun and a 1/2 gallon of Tremclad. Job was easy and is my first time spraying. No more rollers for me Black in color, we will see how it survives the sun rays. The tremclad Rep told me it should last .

 

[runaway!]

One thing I will tell you is that if you use implement paint or rust oleum and you let the truck sit in the sun alot, IT WILL FADE BAD! I have painted alot of stock cars and trailers and a few mud trucks with the stuff and it does not hold up to UV exposure. Just go to menards or harbor freight and buy urself a cheap gun(40 bucks) and you will be so much farther ahead. Rolling it on and all the sanding you gotta do to get it smooth isnt worth it. Just spray 3 coats on and call it done. Screw all that sanding. What are you really saving in the end? All that labor isnt worth the price of a cheap spray gun. And there is no way in hell I would take a car to maaco, I have seen some horror stories by them. There is a reason they are so cheap.

Again, I would have to construct a paint booth to keep dust out and paint in. No thanks! This drives up cost and labor.

Finding a UV resistant paint isn't hard (Interlux Alkyd Boat Paint for example), or just use an alkyd based UV resistant clear coat applied the same way.

Considering the amount of sanding, a large amount of labor is only needed for orange peel. The paint when thinned properly, is very thin and self leveling - so heavy sanding is harmful. A good alkyd based filler primer will take out the deep stuff, so really 5-6 passes with wet sanding between coats is getting excessive.

With spray methods, there isn't any wet sanding between coats? Doesn't this effect adhesion of the paint layers?

 

[jhnlennon]

Spray booth? I have painted so many projects in a 2 car garage with just blowing everything off and spraying down the floor with water just before Im ready to spray. Heck, I have even painted stuff right outside on a warm, calm sunny day. You are way over thinking it. You dont sand between coats, you just wait for it to get tacky and spray the next coat on. 2 hours tops and you got 3 coats down. And Im telling you that the even the best alkaloyd enamels WILL NOT HOLD UP to constant UV exposure. There is a reason it is cheap. Its not designed for it. I wouldnt even recommend a automotive enamel. I have been disappointed by those even. Enamel fades, period. There is a reason automakers got away from using it. If your gonna go through all the work of prepping the body, fixing rust, puttying up dents, why would you want to skimp at the very end to save a couple hundred bucks???? Better off just to paint it flat black and be done with it then. Spraying the paint is the easiest part of it. You could end up paying more for body supplies and repair panels then you would for the paint. If your gonna do it you might as well go all the way and do it right.

 

[runaway!]

So you don't think paint designed for top coating boats won't stand up? I figured they get the most intense UV exposure due to the reflective water around them, and are just as likely to strike a dock as a branch can fall on a vehicle.

And uh, you are in WI too - so we both know warm, calm and sunny is out of the question for at least 8 months.

If I were to "do it right" with this truck, I'd spring for the off frame restoration. See the point is when to call enough is enough. I already get too much of the "might as well" syndrome when working on something - I learned that lesson when doing the roof on my house, it turned into remodeling the whole 2nd floor... Yeah, don't ask...

Let's say I'd decide to spray - might as well pull all the body panels and doors. Seeing I'm this far, might as well clean up and paint the frame... can't exactly do that with all this drive train in my way, so out it goes... Cab will have to be pulled too... I'm running out of room in my garage... Now my camper is in the drive way during a Wisconsin November... A bit dramatic but you see where I'm going with this?

I dispute the notion that there is a ton of prep work required, this won't be show quality - I wouldn't try that kind of quality with a spray gun myself. But I'm pretty sure using a paint that will keep a boat protected from salt water and Florida weather or the brutal weather on Lake Superior might just be ok for a pickup and a little road salt.

And yeah a spray booth, that would be the way of doing right.

On a side note, I'm curious what part of WI are you in?

 

[jhnlennon]

The paint your talking about retails for the same price as what I can get off brand urethanes for????? A urethane will outlast ANY ENAMEL 3-1. The point Im making is that you can get good results spraying without sophistacted equipment. It would be much easier to just spray it. No sanding between coats no worries about runs or orange peel or leveling if you do it right. One day and your done. I dont see the point of even trying to roll it on. Why, when you get pick up spray equipment and automotive paints so cheaply these days??????? I have painted quite a few things already and I can tell you that spraying the paint IS THE EASIEST PART!!! I will snap a pic of my flat bed I just painted last warm day we had(bout three weeks ago or so) I did it right outside in the driveway so the sun would help dry 'er up a little faster.
Oh yea, Im around the fox valley area

 

[runaway!]

Then what about the fumes? Urethane is pretty stinky right? I would be forced to wait until warm weather then, I can't vent my garage and keep it warm at the same time.

I would think the overall time with an enamel would not be excessive. If you total the time it might be 12 hours of total application and wet sanding time. The rest is just waiting between coats.

And what about prep for urethane? Will it stick to old paint and bare metal or does everything have to be first coated in primer?

You had a warm day 3 weeks ago? It missed us, but we are on the lake shore...

 

[motox tech]

 

[runaway!]

You don't think I'm accidentally this stubborn do you? If this all had a simple answer, then why does this method have a following? It even garnered an article in an automotive magazine. Time to dig for that link me thinks...

And please don't get frustrated, it is a good debate me thinks. We aren't the only people reading this I'm sure...

 

[Mat J]

it kinda sounds like you have your mind made up, but i have to agree about spending a little more and spraying on some decent paint if you want it to look good and stay that way for years.

i work on yachts and though im not a painter or know to much about it, from what iv seen they spray all the paint aside from some of the deck paints but regardless it does fade some. white is the main color but even after 5 years or so it will fade and yellow out a little.

 

[motox tech]

You don't think I'm accidentally this stubborn do you? If this all had a simple answer, then why does this method have a following? It even garnered an article in an automotive magazine. Time to dig for that link me thinks...

And please don't get frustrated, it is a good debate me thinks. We aren't the only people reading this I'm sure...

No this is all really interesting,, I like a good debate as much as you. Im not saying this methoud is not going to work, probly will turn out fine. I admire your arguement, and cant wait to see the finished product. I do know however, that ive done quite a bit of painting, sprayed and rolled, and I can assure you that the roll method is not going to be as easy as it sounds either. Your really gonna have to have your mixture correct, and get a hell of a good feel for the application, or youll be sanding till the cows come home! How do you get in all the the vents and seems? Just some things that would concern me I repaired three boats this season and they are Gel Coated, which helps with the UV rays. The finish work on these are tedious. Im interested now to see what your truck looks like now!!! Post pics, keep this party going!!!

 

[runaway!]

No this is all really interesting,, I like a good debate as much as you. Im not saying this methoud is not going to work, probly will turn out fine. I admire your arguement, and cant wait to see the finished product. I do know however, that ive done quite a bit of painting, sprayed and rolled, and I can assure you that the roll method is not going to be as easy as it sounds either. Your really gonna have to have your mixture correct, and get a hell of a good feel for the application, or youll be sanding till the cows come home! How do you get in all the the vents and seems? Just some things that would concern me I repaired three boats this season and they are Gel Coated, which helps with the UV rays. The finish work on these are tedious. Im interested now to see what your truck looks like now!!! Post pics, keep this party going!!!

Supposed to use high density foam brushes, or a toothbrush for getting into areas like seams and vents.

I plan to experiment with a piece of sheet steel, if I screw it up then I will just wipe it off with mineral spirits before it drys. Hopefully I can iron out any difficulties this way.

I will see if I have any pictures of the truck today.

 

[Dsl_Dog_Treat]

For me time is money, proper prep work will take the longest before color application. Once I start laying down the color with an inexpensive HVLP gun from NAPA, I'm done with painting anc clearing the vehicle in less that 2 hours. And yes if weather conditions warrant, I have sprayed right outside as well.

Now if I had to sand inbetween coats, yup it would take alot longer.
So I guess it's six of one half dozen to another.