Paint Job on an 86

[runaway!]

Many of you may have seen or heard of the $50 paint job described here:

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2331682&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1

The guy claims no primer is needed, but I would feel safer using some - leading me to my question.

Are the body panels on an 86 galvanized? I would rather run a brass wire wheel to bare surface and use a primer made for whatever material is under the POS rattle can job from the PO.

 

[motox tech]

He painted with a roller!! nuff said. Buy decent spray gun, Napa has em, about $150. Go to paintforcars.com, buy the kit, w/clear coat like $175. For that price you can afford to screw up and start over. Ive used this paint on several ocations, and it works as good as any paint ive sprayed!

 

[runaway!]

He painted with a roller!! nuff said. Buy decent spray gun, Napa has em, about $150. Go to paintforcars.com, buy the kit, w/clear coat like $175. For that price you can afford to screw up and start over. Ive used this paint on several ocations, and it works as good as any paint ive sprayed!

I can't argue with the results he got (not to mention others used his method successfully), and painting with a gun isn't simple as buying a kit and getting busy. I have limited space and no booth keep things clean.

Trust me, I am not interested in the spray option - This truck is meant to be a project for Sh- N' Giggles, so I'm not afraid to skip conventional wisdom.

Everything done to this truck is going to be a DIY hack job just because I have no good reason stick to the rules.

Anyway, so are they galvanized?

 

[motox tech]

I can't argue with the results he got (not to mention others used his method successfully), and painting with a gun isn't simple as buying a kit and getting busy. I have limited space and no booth keep things clean.

Trust me, I am not interested in the spray option - This truck is meant to be a project for Sh- N' Giggles, so I'm not afraid to skip conventional wisdom.

Everything done to this truck is going to be a DIY hack job just because I have no good reason stick to the rules.

Anyway, so are they galvanized?

It really is pretty easy, painted my 85, and never touched a spray gun before.
turned out pretty good!! But the facts are if you have nowhere to keep things clean, your ****** in the wind. Dirt is dirt and it sticks to rolled paint as well as sprayed. DIY hack job is what your complaining about w/ rattle can. Not trying to be a jerk, just trying to give you a budget option on doing it right. No not galvinized!!!!

 

[runaway!]

It really is pretty easy, painted my 85, and never touched a spray gun before.
turned out pretty good!! But the facts are if you have nowhere to keep things clean, your ****** in the wind. Dirt is dirt and it sticks to rolled paint as well as sprayed. DIY hack job is what your complaining about w/ rattle can. Not trying to be a jerk, just trying to give you a budget option on doing it right. No not galvinized!!!!

I'm more interested in keeping paint off the rest of my stuff, and any compressor setup will kick up dust - a roller won't.

Rattle can hack job by the PO country bumpkin is pretty bad, I figured after the dent repair I should just repaint the whole truck - Else I'd have to drink a case of beer before touch up painting - ya know, so the repairs would match the rest of the truck...

Trust me, if you seen the current paint job - you'd know why I am 'complaining' about it...

 

[91f2504x4]

For all the work it takes to prep a vehicle for paint, there would be no way that I would roll the paint on. For me the painting part is easy, it's the prep and finish work that sucks. You can spend days or even weeks getting everything sanded and prepped for paint but you can paint the entire truck in a day or so. I would really look into spraying but if you are dead set on rolling it on, you could wet sand rolled on paint and make it look decent too as long as you use a solid, non-metallic color. Just roll the paint on in several coats thinning the paint as recommended and following flash times, after your final coat let the paint dry for the recommended amount of time and start out with a good 1000 grit wet or dry with a bucket of water with some soap in it, work your way through 1500 then 2000, and then go to a wool pad with a rubbing compound, then go to a foam pad with a finishing compound, after that it should come out looking about as good as any other paint job.

 

[motox tech]

For all the work it takes to prep a vehicle for paint, there would be no way that I would roll the paint on. For me the painting part is easy, it's the prep and finish work that sucks. You can spend days or even weeks getting everything sanded and prepped for paint but you can paint the entire truck in a day or so. I would really look into spraying but if you are dead set on rolling it on, you could wet sand rolled on paint and make it look decent too as long as you use a solid, non-metallic color. Just roll the paint on in several coats thinning the paint as recommended and following flash times, after your final coat let the paint dry for the recommended amount of time and start out with a good 1000 grit wet or dry with a bucket of water with some soap in it, work your way through 1500 then 2000, and then go to a wool pad with a rubbing compound, then go to a foam pad with a finishing compound, after that it should come out looking about as good as any other paint job.

Agree, the prep is important. You hurry the process and cut corners you may as well use the rattle can. Cant imagine the rolled paint will last as long either, would be interested in seeing the charger 5-10 years from now.

 

[runaway!]

For all the work it takes to prep a vehicle for paint, there would be no way that I would roll the paint on. For me the painting part is easy, it's the prep and finish work that sucks. You can spend days or even weeks getting everything sanded and prepped for paint but you can paint the entire truck in a day or so. I would really look into spraying but if you are dead set on rolling it on, you could wet sand rolled on paint and make it look decent too as long as you use a solid, non-metallic color. Just roll the paint on in several coats thinning the paint as recommended and following flash times, after your final coat let the paint dry for the recommended amount of time and start out with a good 1000 grit wet or dry with a bucket of water with some soap in it, work your way through 1500 then 2000, and then go to a wool pad with a rubbing compound, then go to a foam pad with a finishing compound, after that it should come out looking about as good as any other paint job.

That is pretty much how he outlined the method, specifically using synthetic alkyd industrial enamel (expensive tractor paint) and thinning with 100% Stoddard solvent to a consistency slightly thicker than water. But a rubbing compound is to be avoided, turtle wax polishing compound is used after the final wet sand.

My prep work won't take weeks, I'm not looking for show quality - I want to pull the dents and patch the cancer, strip the paint with a wire wheel, go straight to a non-sanding primer, then go to the alkyd paint.

Note this guy also claimed he didn't do much prep work, he went right over old paint and bare metal like most rust stopping enamels can do. Wet sanding was minimal, just a few passes with lots of soapy water.

He shows several cars done with this method, and he claims the trick is properly thinning combined with not pushing down on the roller.

I'm willing to try it, I know it could be a disaster - can't be any worse than what I got now!

 

[runaway!]

Agree, the prep is important. You hurry the process and cut corners you may as well use the rattle can. Cant imagine the rolled paint will last as long either, would be interested in seeing the charger 5-10 years from now.

http://www.rickwrench.com/index79master.htm?http://www.rickwrench.com/50dollarpaint.html

3 years later, even shows damage from a falling limb and car canopy - then the easy repair.

The mopar thread I linked stated the charger's paint was 6 years old, that statement was made in 06.

 

[motox tech]

http://www.rickwrench.com/index79master.htm?http://www.rickwrench.com/50dollarpaint.html

3 years later, even shows damage from a falling limb and car canopy - then the easy repair.

The mopar thread I linked stated the charger's paint was 6 years old, that statement was made in 06.

sounds like your convinced. Good luck, post pics.

 

[Michael Fowler]

That is pretty much how he outlined the method, specifically using synthetic alkyd industrial enamel (expensive tractor paint) and thinning with 100% Stoddard solvent to a consistency slightly thicker than water. But a rubbing compound is to be avoided, turtle wax polishing compound is used after the final wet sand.

My prep work won't take weeks, I'm not looking for show quality - I want to pull the dents and patch the cancer, strip the paint with a wire wheel, go straight to a non-sanding primer, then go to the alkyd paint.

Note this guy also claimed he didn't do much prep work, he went right over old paint and bare metal like most rust stopping enamels can do. Wet sanding was minimal, just a few passes with lots of soapy water.

He shows several cars done with this method, and he claims the trick is properly thinning combined with not pushing down on the roller.

I'm willing to try it, I know it could be a disaster - can't be any worse than what I got now!

Think about it this way....Even if the roller job is a total disaster, you have little $$ invested, plus your time.
Go for it. maybe it'll work, maybe it won't, but even if its bad, its no worse than what you have now.

 

[runaway!]

Think about it this way....Even if the roller job is a total disaster, you have little $$ invested, plus your time.
Go for it. maybe it'll work, maybe it won't, but even if its bad, its no worse than what you have now.

I'm not that shy about loosing a few bucks if I could potentially save money later or improve something. Besides, this is partially a project for fun and I hate sticking to conventional opinion.

I'll post content on the job when I get started, I have to insulate my garage first - getting to cold up here already.

 

[Optikalillushun]

i have thought about going this route with my 88. in theory is sounds like a good idea for a cheap, but decent looking paint job. my friend painted his S-10 black in a similiar fashion except he didnt wet sand as much and it turned out half decent considering the truck is a parts runner.

 

[Alex S]

good luck, actually anybody who has used a proper roller with the paint just thinned right and knows how to use a roller, knows it can do just as good as job as a sprayer but its just a bit more work

 

[DragRag]

My local automotive paint shop puts car paint in rattle cans for me. I painted the back of a single cab I had when the bed was off, and it turned out pretty darn good. Bought a quart of paint, and $10 per can for the spray can installed with the chemicals. Made for a nice, and very inexpensive paint job.