Operating an IDI in cold weather

[oldmisterbill]

Seeing as that is in my stomping area (all of New England)its a small area. If you do get snow it will be cleared within 24 hours ( but you should be able to travel right through the storm).On the other hand you probably will encounter some slippery roads at some time or other.If you are there and gone before Jan1st you most probably won't encounter temps below 5*. The middle part of Jan is the coldest. As far as plugging in the block heater, 2 hrs of plugging in your heater will do the trick easily. If you get the priviledge to drive in a storm -depending in the temp (colder = dry drifting snow while warmer makes heavy wet snow) Wet slush is trecherous as it throws the front end back and forth as you hit the ruts -drive in others tracks or if possible a lane of nice clean un broken snow is best for saftey and traction. I prefer unbroken snow to rutty slushy roads. When traveIing on slushy interstates I don't change lanes (dangerous). If I have to change lanes do it gradually. two things to remember driving on snow & ice-1.drive as if you have no brakes,2. dont make any quick turns. On slippery roads us 4wd but remember you can excellerate faster then you can slow down. So use yout transmission for braking when possible.
I like howes best for preventing frozen fuel.
Don,t drive on wet bare roads in FWdrive - you will break something! (like shafts-diff gears-axles etc.) You can make a peice to cover the front of your radiator ot of any peice of cardbord you find behind a supermarket by th dumpster.I would put any thing in front of the radiator unless you can't get the truck warm enough. You shouldn't have nay starting issues if your truck is in good shape battery -glow plug and starter wise, hover you will find cold weather starter is a lttle different then warm weather.Develope your own way to start it.Make sure you use all your glow plug time to preheat.
You should be there to experience one of the most beautiful Christmasses God can give you to share the celebration of his sons birth.
Good luck Mr bill

 

[A_G]

Bills right, im kinda curious how a truck thats a ton over the weight of my first truck but heres what i know.

I live in wyoming. so called a even a gasser needs a block heater. I didnt have one im from oklahoma. -50 below and the truck would start and immediatly die. I remember using a salamander in my drive way to heat my engine so i could drain the oil and switch to sythetic on everything because it was jello. Sythetic does thicken but not to that extent.

That doesnt really pertain to your diesel but on to driving.
I had a 2wd f150 with a small block. i drove to the top of mountains in 4 foot of snow. ive driven in totally white outs. My secret, i had MTs on the back and i have driven in everything. Only a few pucker moments, once was ice on everything no snow. even gearing down it locked up..it was coasting everywhere.
Throttle control throttle control. Main issue. ease into it if ur tires start spinning as your taking off. let off the throttle it should idle down and grab. If you start sliding. let off the gas. if your sliding while stopping pump those babys. Short soft touches on the brake pedal. it will slow you down.

If you really cant go anywhere, snows heavy when its packed. Shovel into the bed of your truck and pack it down, it will melt and you can shovel it out when your done.

i drove in stuff like this and did just fine.
I only go towed once, i had a bad ground and at 40 below my battery couldnt get around that bad ground and it cranked to slow.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

I drove out of that when it stopped snowing. now i did just drive it in the garage because it was like 12ft deep in the intersection

 

[pybyr]

As someone in VT, I second the comments about what type of tires you have.

If you have a highway-type tire with a continuous outer band at the edges of the tire (no sideways openings between tread blocks) you are in for a rude experience in snow, or worse still, new snow on top of packed slick road surfaces. That type of tire loses both traction and steering in those conditions (I know from experience after having them as the OE tires on my past '99 F250). That'll only be compounded with the DRW, which will tend to float/ plow.

A tread pattern with lots of open blocks, preferably with sipes, will make a big difference. Since you say you've bought tires, hopefully you have something sort of like that. If you have the highway type tread, seriously consider putting some different shoes on for the trip north.

 

[towtruckdave]

As someone in VT, I second the comments about what type of tires you have.

If you have a highway-type tire with a continuous outer band at the edges of the tire (no sideways openings between tread blocks) you are in for a rude experience in snow, or worse still, new snow on top of packed slick road surfaces. That type of tire loses both traction and steering in those conditions (I know from experience after having them as the OE tires on my past '99 F250). That'll only be compounded with the DRW, which will tend to float/ plow.

A tread pattern with lots of open blocks, preferably with sipes, will make a big difference. Since you say you've bought tires, hopefully you have something sort of like that. If you have the highway type tread, seriously consider putting some different shoes on for the trip north.

Very true, that continous outer tread is useless in snow. It also makes it hydroplane in rain. This is the first thing I look at when considering buying a tire.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

Very true, that continous outer tread is useless in snow. It also makes it hydroplane in rain. This is the first thing I look at when considering buying a tire.

I do agree that an open-shouldered tread is best in snow or mud.

However, I must dis-agree on the hydro-planing of closed-shoulder treads.


Contrary to popular belief, water does not exit the tread laterally, but fore and aft.

In reality, cross-wise tread blocks will dam up the water, pushing it ahead of the tread blocks, and actually contribute to the hydroplaning effect.


The straighter the tread ribs, the better the traction on wet pavement, as the straight channels give the water nowhere to collect, but, instead, channels it rearward and out from under the tire.


Hence is why all premium steer tires have closed shoulders and very straight ribs.