OK...Need help QUICK!!!!

[Crankybait]

As a lot of y'all suggested I am taking the pump out with the lines attached. Now this is an 1993 ATS(I believe)7.3l factory turbo engine. I can't get enough rearward movement of the pump/line assy to clear the unit from the drive housing. Anymore and I will bend the lines on the right side under the turbo... Need ideas quick please. 1st time injection pump newbie..

 

[IDIoit]

keep at it.
remove your air intake from the turbo and engine.
unscrew injection line nuts.
unbolt the throttle cable bracket.
unbolt cover on the IP.
unbolt 3 IP gear to IP bolts.
remove fuel line from housing to IP
remove return line from IP
lifting the rear of the lines will let it slide out.(walk it twards the passenger side
its not exactly easy nor hard.
ive done it many many times with said set up.
do not bend those lines, you will kick yourself in the ass later.

 

[Crankybait]

Have everything out of the way, even unbolted the GP controller, rotated the unit as far right as possible with the rear higher than the front.. I do have the hub out of the mounting area but two threaded embossments on back of gear housing are now the culprits.. I'll keep trying, don't wanna bend those lines...Thanks

 

[IDIoit]

if the throttle bracket is in place, you will never get it out

you could even remove the intake snail, and loosen the turbo pedestal bolts

 

[Crankybait]

The pump and lines are OUT!!!! YEAH!!!!! got to looking closer at things and then it was so simple... Double nutted the top mounting stud and threaded it out.. The pump/line assy came right out after clearing the back to right lines from the GP wiring.. Now on to changing out the injectors and have had the GP soaking in PB Blaster ready for new ZD9's.

Thanks for the pep talk... Spent 35 years straightening fenders because I didn't like getting greasy.. now own 2 diesels ( the jokes on me now...)... both Fords... this truck one old very reliable 3000 3cyl tractor..

 

[Crankybait]

Found 6 Autolite and 1 Champion GP ( going to assume #4 cyl a Champion) so far.. all are intact and not swelled..I do have 2 cylinders that the new ZD 9 doesn't want to slide down in, have those 2 soaking with a spray of PB Blaster, what can be run down thru to clean the soot with?? Off to the get the dreaded back right bank GP out..will keep giving progress reports.....

 

[riotwarrior]

Whoooa
Dont force gp down the gp holes...check very gently with a probe first if clear....make somethings out of solid copper wire for example...slightly longer than gp...and not capable of fallin in.

If hole is blocked by a broken tip you want to know....take fuel shut off solenoid wire off ip and bump crank engine if tip in hole. Place stack of rags over hole might come out like bullet.

Once you know the gp holes are clean then you can wire brush them clean...gun cleaner brush...

Just sayin...

 

[icanfixall]

As already posted. A stack of rags covering the glow hole will slow down the piece of plug that comes out like a bullit. Remember we make upwards of 450 lbs compression when cranking. Mine makes 530 lbs during cranking.. Just make sure you cover the open hole. It will hurt if it hits you or the hood.

 

[Crankybait]

All the GPs came out intact, none swelled. #4 cyl still had a Beru in it.. guess it's been there since '93. I hit the 2 holes with Blaster a couple of times, let them sit and then used my .22 cal brush, the new MC's slide right in then.. I do have one issue, while putting in 1 injector I guess my petro jelly got hot from sitting in the sun and the washer fell off when installing the injector. It looks like I broke the tip on the injector. I moved it the to driver's front and installed another in it's place. Guess I'll be calling Conestoga in the morn and ordering another... CRAP!!!!! I'm working on switching line and fittings on the pump right now.. All the injectors are in place and torqued, all return caps and new lines in. That's where I'm at.. Will post again when the pump is back on.

 

[Crankybait]

It's pretty much ready for priming, got a new filter filled with Howes. I left the IP return line off like directed, but went ahead and put the injectors line on the injectors, but slightly loose.. I looked all over and I didn't have any alligator clips to make the power feed wire for the IP. Off to work in the morn to get those. At least I have 1 more day off of work to complete this major project. I plan on putting the air cleaner back on to protect the turbo during initial startup, looking for something to use to cover the hole where the flex hose connects to the side of the filter base incase of a runaway. Time to take a long shower and relax the rest of the evening and start again tomorrow. Thanks for all the info and advice, I pray everything goes well in the morn, I'd hate to do this again.......

 

[icanfixall]

These copper gasket washers are very important. You use ONLY ONE PER INJECTOR... Usually its customary that a new injector comes with a copper gasket on it already. So you also get a spare set in every return line kit too. But use only one on each injector. Using a heavy grease usually keeps the gasket stuck to the injector tip very nicely. Sorry you damaged an injector. When you felt resistance installing it might have been a better idea to stop.. Remove injector and see why it wont seat properly. On my engine I have found some injectors come out fine but... Installing a different injector hits the edge of the valve cover... So I massage that till it fits....

 

[Crankybait]

The 1st thread or 2 on all the new injectors started a little rough but threaded right down easily after. I was using petro jelly like Conestoga suggested in their article but I left it sitting in the sun and it got thinner sticking in the freezer for 5 mins made it better. Getting ready to call them this morn and order another injector and make sure I have everything packed up correctly on the cores. Then get back to the beast and get it started...