fuelscrew
Diesel Addict
Is there any way to do an oil pan gasket without jacking up or removeing the motor.
oil pan gasket
- Thread starter fuelscrew
- Start date
GenLightening
Yeah, it's a CHEVY!
Simple answer is no. It can be done in the truck, but I don't think it's worth the extra effort and potential to have to redo things if it still leaks. And don't use a gasket. RTV is what the factory used.
fuelscrew
Diesel Addict
ok so can i get away with jacking the motor up i dont have the time to pull my engine right now although it would be nice
Black dawg
Registered User
it can be done in the truck but is an ugly nasty job.
GenLightening
Yeah, it's a CHEVY!
Lift the motor and block it up, pull the pan bolts, drop the oil pump, remove the pan. Clean it up put it under the block, reinstall the oil pump, apply sealant and bolt it back up. Sounds easy, just really, really messy. Good luck.
fuelscrew
Diesel Addict
thanks for the help guys, oil pump is up front correct never had a pan off an idi befor plenty of gassers though
GenLightening
Yeah, it's a CHEVY!
Yep, driven off the front timing gears.
flareside_thun
Reviving The General Tao
Make sure you do as stated and remove the pan from the truck completely...the RTV the factory used is some badass stuff and can be difficult to remove.
OnDaRoad
On the road ....
Do it when doing the clutch ...
On my 1990 2WD w/ 7.3 & 5 speed ZF
The time to replace the oil pan gasket is when you are doing the clutch ....
Along with the rear main seal ...
But only if they are leaking ....
Mine was leaking around the front & rear.
Which I am doing now ...
My oil pan had a combination of original gasket material
combined with rtv sealant - a real mess - someone had removed
the pan & used rtv around the front and rear right over
the paper gasket ....
I drained the oil pan - removed the oil filter - removed the starter
and positive cable mount from the block.
I did not remove the oil pump ...
I loosened the motor mounts on both sides and ran the nuts out to the end
after the tranny was pulled & rear main cover was pulled.
Then carefully jacked up the front & rear of the engine
while supporting it ....
That left me at least 4 inches all the way around ....
Lots of scraping - lots of brake cleaner.
I made sure my oil pan was cleaned out when I was done,
lots of gasket material fell in there, I had enough room to
reach in & clean it out.
Very time consuming ....
Jim
On my 1990 2WD w/ 7.3 & 5 speed ZF
The time to replace the oil pan gasket is when you are doing the clutch ....
Along with the rear main seal ...
But only if they are leaking ....
Mine was leaking around the front & rear.
Which I am doing now ...
My oil pan had a combination of original gasket material
combined with rtv sealant - a real mess - someone had removed
the pan & used rtv around the front and rear right over
the paper gasket ....
I drained the oil pan - removed the oil filter - removed the starter
and positive cable mount from the block.
I did not remove the oil pump ...
I loosened the motor mounts on both sides and ran the nuts out to the end
after the tranny was pulled & rear main cover was pulled.
Then carefully jacked up the front & rear of the engine
while supporting it ....
That left me at least 4 inches all the way around ....
Lots of scraping - lots of brake cleaner.
I made sure my oil pan was cleaned out when I was done,
lots of gasket material fell in there, I had enough room to
reach in & clean it out.
Very time consuming ....
Jim
flareside_thun
Reviving The General Tao
These trucks didn't have any gasket material from the factory, just the silicone.
pafixitman
Registered User
Right you are. Did mine in frame and it leaks bad. Still need time to pull the motor and fix....or the money to fix everything I want at the same time!
