OD light flashing hard 1-2 shifts

[Chappy]

OD light flashing - hard shifts

OD light started to flash, but no engine light was flashing. Found the TPS to be old style so I replaced it. Voltages are good, 1.3 and 4, but light still flashes. Removed battery cables to clear codes, did not work. Trucks shifts well except that it shifts hard. OD light seems to be blinking a pattern? Tried to pull codes using a test light, but when I hook the jumper up the OD light stops flashing. Do I need to purchase the OBD1 scanner to pull the transmission codes? Thanks for your help everyone.

 

[tbrumm]

OD light started to flash, but no engine light was flashing. Found the TPS to be old style so I replaced it. Voltages are good, 1.3 and 4, but light still flashes. Removed battery cables to clear codes, did not work. Trucks shifts well except that it shifts hard. OD light seems to be blinking a pattern? Tried to pull codes using a test light, but when I hook the jumper up the OD light stops flashing. Do I need to purchase the OBD1 scanner to pull the transmission codes? Thanks for your help everyone.

Yes, the first step is to get a scanner and pull the codes. The OBD-I scanners are cheap and every E40D owner should have one anyway. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/INN0/3145/N0664.oap?ck=Search_obd+code+reader_-1_-1&keyword=obd+code+reader
I am assuming you have an E4OD - Please fill in your truck's information in your signature so we all know what you have. Your "low" FIPL (TPS) voltage seems a bit high - should be a max of 1.2 volts. Report back with the codes and you will get all kinds of help from good people on here

 

[HS108]

Is your tach and speedo working correctly?

 

[trackspeeder]

You could stop by your local tranny joint or a garage to get the codes pulled.

 

[Chappy]

Yes, the first step is to get a scanner and pull the codes. The OBD-I scanners are cheap and every E40D owner should have one anyway. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/INN0/3145/N0664.oap?ck=Search_obd+code+reader_-1_-1&keyword=obd+code+reader
I am assuming you have an E4OD - Please fill in your truck's information in your signature so we all know what you have. Your "low" FIPL (TPS) voltage seems a bit high - should be a max of 1.2 volts. Report back with the codes and you will get all kinds of help from good people on here

I'll pick one up and post the codes, thanks!

 

[Chappy]

Yes they are

 

[Chappy]

I received my scanner today and got codes 23 and 99. I replaced the tps with the gray one, 1.3 and 4v. Took out sensor on passenger side of tranny behind Heat guard and applied dielectric grease, also greased sensor on top of rear diff . Cleared codes but they both came back, any other suggestions?

 

[trackspeeder]

Code 99 is a failed EPC solenoid.

Either the solenoid is weak or has shorted out. To fix this you will need a new solenoid pack.

 

[Golden Helmet]

I can't help with the code 99, but as far as the hard shifting, if you adjust your TPS a little bit more you should be able to soften up the shifts. I had mine set in the upper region of 1.2v (my cheap multimeter doesn't have a second decimal place, but it was close to 1.3v) and the shifts were very firm, and the shift points were a little bit higher than I liked. If you back the idle voltage down to mid/upper 1.1v, that should smooth out your shifts.

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

firms shifts can be due to an improper fipl/tps for sure golden helmet but his firm shifts are due to the trans being in limp mode with the od light flashing.
code 23 will be set whenever you don't hold wide open throttle during the scan.code 99 needs to be resolved and then the firm shifts/flashing od light should go away.
edit; oh 1.3 should be backed down to 1.2 though yes.good call.

edit 2.here we go.i knew i could find it.test the pack info;
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?70217-Testing-E4OD-Solenoid-Pack-and-Code-referrence

also,ebay sells remans.(you need 89-94)

 

[trackspeeder]

Code 99 will give you hard shifts too.

 

[Chappy]

Thanks for the help, so the recommendation is to adjust the tps to 1.2 and then purchase the wire harness to check the solenoid pack. Could you walk through using the new harness to troubleshoot the solenoid pack issue? I read the hyperlink but not sure how to use the harness in the test. Thanks for the help, I really hope I don't need to replace the entire solenoid pack...

 

[OLDBULL8]

Solenoid Pack's only come as a Pack, not individual solenoids, that's why there called a PACK.

You can purchase a repair Harness that will act as a troubleshooting harness.

 

[tbrumm]

Thanks for the help, so the recommendation is to adjust the tps to 1.2 and then purchase the wire harness to check the solenoid pack. Could you walk through using the new harness to troubleshoot the solenoid pack issue? I read the hyperlink but not sure how to use the harness in the test. Thanks for the help, I really hope I don't need to replace the entire solenoid pack...

Yeah, all those colored wires are confusing at first, at least for me. When you use the hyperlink to get to the other thread, look at post number 3 by FORDF250HDXLT. He has posted 6 pictures of info that will allow you to test the solenoid pack using the test harness. After you connect the test harness, you use a multimeter (preferably a digital one) to check the resistance of the solenoids. Post Number 3 gives you those resistance values. You can also use the test harness to activate the solenoids by supplying 12 volts to Pin 1 (if I remember right) and then grounding the corresponding solenoid pin. My suggestion is to place piece of masking tape on the end of each wire of the test harness, and then write on the tape the corresponding pin number that matches up with that wire color. That way, when you have harness connected and are laying under the truck, you only have to read the tape label and not have to decode the wire color. Then connect the leads of the multimeter to the two corresponding wires of the test harness as instructed in POST 3 of the other thread and read the resistance values. I can see if I can get a pic of my test harness tonight showing the labeled wires, but once you print out the images in post 3 of the other thread and study them bit, you will understand what to do. I am going to agree with Trackspeeder's diagnosis - the EPC solenoid is probably weak or bad and you will likely need a new solenoid pack, but it is good to test it out first. You can buy a rebuilt solenoid pack as opposed to buying new and should be able to get that for between $100-$150. If you don't have a digital multimeter, I would suggest getting one. I don't know how I got along without mine before I bought it. Let us know what you find out.

 

[trackspeeder]

On the subject of solenoid packs. When you disconnect the harness from the pack. Check for ATF. If the connector is wet, no need to test the pack. It is junk.

EPC solenoid should 4.0-6.5 ohms

The EPC solenoid is a variable force solenoid. So 99% of the time it will die wide open. This why you have hard shifts.