Now She Leaks Everywhere!

[John Haggerty]

I have to change my signature from "leaks almost everywhere" to "leaks everywhere".

I just noticed #2 dripping from the shield protecting a fuel tank. On my gasser I have the same problem, but fixed it easily by never putting gas in the tank again (I've been running on one tank for 175K miles)! However, this truck deserves more respect.

So what's easier? Drop tanks or remove bed and address the issue. At almost 200K, I feel I should change them both.

Any thoughts?

 

[Exekiel69]

It does look easier removing the bed, but I do remember mine is quite heavy

When I look at the tank from under the truck it does not look like so much work to drop them, but that's just Me.

 

[NapaBavarian]

I've done it both ways and on a truc with a factory bed it really is a crapshoot, you'll hear bed is easier from some and tank drop is easire from others because they are almost equal, so the real question is do you want to lift a bed, or wrench from the underside? If you don't have a cemment pad then just pulling the bed might be easier, but maby not. I've had siezed bed bolts than I had to drill out and a tank that I just couldn't shake lose for over an hour

 

[sassyrel]

or--drain the tank completely--theres some stuff you can get at a welding supply place--where you mix two parts together--and apply to a cleaned outside of tank--and bonds to tank--have had guys around here use it--and swear by it!!!

 

[MudHog]

Benzola might be what your thinking of. It comes for plastic and metal. I fixed a gas tank on a old KX80 dirt bike. Two part epoxy that hardened like metal. There's also the same two part epoxy for plastic.

 

[Diezel_Cowboy]

I replaced both the front and rear tank in my truck. They both started leaking but not at the same time, so they were replaced on seperate dates.
I ran each down to below 1/4 tank before removing them, the weight at that capacity is not that heavy (bout 5 gals or so in tank). I have way too much junk in the bed (tool box, stacks, etc.) so it was pretty easy to just drop them. I purchased each tank brand new for about $100 a piece bout a year ago. I had to replace the sending unit in the rear tank since it was very corroded it cost about $180 if i remember correctly, it was a stealership item only!
I put several coats of Ensign 395A tar based paint (black) on the outside of the tank, the brackets, etc. and let dry for about a week before i put the tanks back in. That should make them last a little longer !
Had a friend around when it was time to install each tank.....dunno if i would have got them back in there with out help.
Oh yeah, make sure you have a "quick disconnect tool" to remove the fuel lines from the sending unit.

 

[Dsl_Dog_Treat]

I have to change my signature from "leaks almost everywhere" to "leaks everywhere".

So what's easier? Drop tanks or remove bed and address the issue. At almost 200K, I feel I should change them both.

Any thoughts?

Fords rust proof protection feature at full capacity. Been there.
John,
IMHO after 170k, on the "Gold one", I had both tanks leaking due to rubbing issues. The emptier the tanks are the better. I had bout 5 gallons left in each and wasn't really that bad. Air tools really made the difference. Changed em both out in the yard and went pretty smoothly.
On reinstall, get some rubber strips like what is used for roofing material on houses or travel trailers and cut them into 2" strips and glue them to the straps first.3M contact adhesive did the trick, quick dry and set time.
Saves the tanks from strap wear later on.
I had no help so removing the bed was not an option. It took more time to prep the new tank installs than it did to remove them.
Nice purdy gloss black rustoleum now.
As far as the removal tool, a small thin blade screwdriver will work if carefull.
Good luck and happy leak removing.

 

[OkieGringo]

I dropped both of mine and replaced the sending units and the tanks. I got plastic tanks from www.mtscompany.com for $110 ea.
The new sending unit/pickup is a "Ford Stealership Only" item. Go here: http://www.parts.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=213787 after selecting your make and model, you need to look under "Electrical" to find the fuel sending unit. The 'units' are about $20.00 less at this site than at a "Stealership"($100.00+/-), but I don't know if "the shipping charges" will make it less in the long run. The front and rear units are different with different part #s. And even NEW sending units aren't very accurate. When/if you install new SUs fill the dry tank with 5 gallons of fuel and check what the gauge shows, add 5 more, check etc...

While you've got the tanks down do the "filler neck mod" to make filling up much faster.
Take the filler neck out and remove the black hose that goes into the tank. It's stubborn but it will come off. I believe a one inch hole saw (remove the pilot bit first)is needed to gut the filler neck and throw the internals away. You'll want to cut into the inner part of the filler with a reciprocating saw to make pulling it out easier. You'll have to work it a bit but it'll come out eventually. A quarter inch piece of copper tubing needs to be brazed or epoxied to the top of the filler neck after drilling a hole in it. The tubing must be above where the end of the nozzle sits in the filler during fueling. Next you'll need to get to the top of the tanks. The rear tank is dropped by removing the skid plates that hold the tank up. Loosen the top straps to take pressure off the plates. The rollover valve in the top of the tank has a breather hose attached to it. Take the valve out and remove the guts. Drill it out as far as you can and then re-install being careful not to drop it in the tank or push it too far in the gromet or you'll be dropping the tank to fish it out. Get a new piece of 1/4" fuel line to run from the rollover valve to the fitting brazed on the filler. That is your new breather. Wire tie the hose into place and you should be good. If you need to drop the tanks all the way be sure to get(buy, rent, steal) the 'fuel line disconnect tool' or else the couplers aren't coming apart! This "mod" is a hassle/pain-in-the-****, but worth it. This ‘MOD’ makes filling the tanks soooo much easier/faster. Have fun, OkieGringo.

 

[robertoh]

John-Personally Iwould do it by dropping the tank--find it simpler than trying to lift the bed- a pain either way but its gotta be done BC:canuk Robertoh

 

[Agnem]

John, I have a good front tank, and am headed to the WMRHS meeting tonight if you want it. I have a good rear tank too, but can't get it out of the hulk without a torch.

 

[John Haggerty]

Mel,
Thanks for the offer. I'm not sure which is leaking yet. Only see a small drip from the shield. I've been running this truck as my daily (600+ weekly) since summer. She's running good, but I need spring to work on "the list in order".
John