No start 6.9

[renjaminfrankln]

have the 6.9 with mechanical fuel pump (new). IP and injectors are new. Return lines new, a slight weep on the return line That connects to the IP. Previous owner said the truck will have some trouble starting after it sits a few days. I assume this is due to fuel draining back.

I bought it last week and have been running every day. Always fires right up on the first or second try and goes right into a smooth idle. Last ran it yesterday afternoon.

Today, went to start it. Nothing. Tried cranking several times for 7to 10 sec per try, either at half throttle or full. Didn’t even try to start. It’s about 75f here so it should fire right up. My guess is fuel has drained back, or the cut off solenoid on the IP is engaging somehow.

Anyone got some ideas for me on things to check? I’m going to try cranking more in a minute. And I need to figure out how the fuel shutoff solenoid works so I can check that as well.

I did replace the safety neutral switch on the C6 yesterday. Drove it several times since then with no,issues. Does the safety neutral switch disable the starter, the fuel cutoff solenoid on the injector pump, or both? I would figure starter which is working fine...

 

[renjaminfrankln]

Alright so after posting this I realized that I didn’t think I saw the glow plug light come on when I turned the key to that position so I went back out and turned the key to “run”. Glow plug light came on this time. Hit the starter and fired up instantly and went right into a smooth idle.

I’m guessing the key switch did not engage the glow plugs / solenoid. Who knows how old that switch is, might be time for replacement or cleaning.

 

[chillman88]

Glow plugs was my first thought. You wouldn't expect it at 75 degrees but these things aren't happy without them.

You might be able to clean the switch up but I'd just wait and see if it does it again personally. I'm lazy though lol!

 

[genscripter]

This might help: http://www.nickpisca.com/diesel/ele...al-assembly-and-ignition-tumbler-replacement/

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[renjaminfrankln]

Thanks for your replies. I’m guessing might be glow plugs. Never had a problem after it was warm.

 

[chillman88]

I don't know what year but the old style glow plug controller can be problematic too. Is your glow plug controller the round screw in type or the rectangular type that bolts in?

If you want to dive into troubleshooting, I'd ohm test all the plugs before replacing anything. Then I'd check all the wiring.

 

[snicklas]

83-86 - Was the "dumb" fail-on screw into the head controller:

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87-94 - Was the "intelligent" controller that is fail-safe and attached to the back of the intake on the N/A and the valve cover on the Turbo engine.

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[icanfixall]

hopefully you know if you change to the newer solid state controller you need to also change from spade connector to the bullet connector glow plugs named ZD9. Also the connector in the glow plug harness needs to be changed too.

 

[renjaminfrankln]

Glow plugs not coming on at all now. Cranked in a reasonable amount of time this morning with 50% throttle. Not the instant start like before.

The previous owner replaced all of the glow plugs and even the wiring, it all looks good. It has spade type plugs and the controller I believe is the old style kind. They did seem to be working well before, i could hear the controller doing its thing. And it would start instantly on a cooler morning.

I assume the power to activate the system comes in at the solenoid? I’ll probably check that first.

 

[genscripter]

You might need to check your GP wire fusable links too. Maybe they burned out.

 

[silverrex4]

You really shouldn't need glow plugs when its warm make sure you use motorcraft glo plugs only, they work the best. you can check each plug with a test light. Diesel tech ron RIP on youtube gives you a great how to test glo plugs. make sure your glo plug light isnt out and check fuses to make sure its not blown. if you turn the key and hear clicking you know the glo plugs are working. definitely find that leak of fuel or drainback of fuel. how old are the caps on the lines? Leaky lines just worst problems down the road

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[renjaminfrankln]

You really shouldn't need glow plugs when its warm make sure you use motorcraft glo plugs only, they work the best. you can check each plug with a test light. Diesel tech ron RIP on youtube gives you a great how to test glo plugs. make sure your glo plug light isnt out and check fuses to make sure its not blown. if you turn the key and hear clicking you know the glo plugs are working. definitely find that leak of fuel or drainback of fuel. how old are the caps on the lines? Leaky lines just worst problems down the road

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Lines, IP and injectors are brand new, no leaks there. Its the one return line that actually hooks up to the IP which weeps slightly at the connection. Should be an easy fix.

I'm sure its not just the glow plug light. Glow plugs are new, motorcraft and the wiring is new, this should be an easy fix as well.

 

[Thewespaul]

How fast your engine spins over matters more than working glowplug system. My shop truck has no glow plugs or starting aids and will start fine down to 55* which is as cold as I’ve had it. Tight fuel system with no leaks, good batteries and starter make a big difference

 

[renjaminfrankln]

How fast your engine spins over matters more than working glowplug system. My shop truck has no glow plugs or starting aids and will start fine down to 55* which is as cold as I’ve had it. Tight fuel system with no leaks, good batteries and starter make a big difference

I don't have a measurement but it seems to spin over pretty well. Starter is new (not sure if gear reduction) and so are two optima batteries and cables.

Most likely a combination of me not knowing how to start it (I wasnt holding the throttle open) and glow plugs not working.

 

[riphip]

I just reach inside the driver door of my 86 & 'bump" start mine. makes maybe 3 revolutions. I use glow plugs & foot peddle when coooool.