NEW TRUCK!!!!!!!!

[6 Nebraska IDIs]

If its that big of a deal, just weld them suckers to the axle and be done with it. They wont go anywhere then.

 

[cgraham]

with the front blocks when cornering the extra heigth increases the leaverage on the front u-bolts and could result in the blocks getting spit out causing a wreck

There is much more force on the front of the truck when hitting the brakes than on the rear, and when adding a block it elevates the leverage point on the front axle. This can cause the front axle to roll under and spit the block right out the front, then you could lose your steering and control of your truck. So you should probably take it out.
It looks like your truck sits nose high as it is, so it wouldn't hurt anything to remove a couple of inches in the front, for your safety and the safety of others:

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Actually she can't remove the blocks and just drive the truck 2" lower in the front, she will get some nasty camber and kill tires in no time, not to mention how bad the truck will handle. Welding in the blocks may work, but they are cast iron and the axle housings are steel, so it will be hard to get a good strong weld between the two. Adding a few leafs will be a good choice, however that will make the front real stiff. Maybe install longer shackles? That should take retain height and ride quality, while still getting rid of the blocks...

Also, the steering linkage quite frankly scares me - the main drag link may be okay as far as angles at the ends go, but the short link for the driver-side wheel is way too off - I'd look into running solid link from knuckle to knuckle, and then relocate the drag link's attachment to be on top of the passenger side knuckle arm, not below it like tis now.

 

[TLBREWER]

Sam

Congrats on the new ride. Glad to see you back in an IDI.

Tom

 

[subway]

Actually she can't remove the blocks and just drive the truck 2" lower in the front, she will get some nasty camber and kill tires in no time, not to mention how bad the truck will handle. Welding in the blocks may work, but they are cast iron and the axle housings are steel, so it will be hard to get a good strong weld between the two. Adding a few leafs will be a good choice, however that will make the front real stiff. Maybe install longer shackles? That should take retain height and ride quality, while still getting rid of the blocks...

Also, the steering linkage quite frankly scares me - the main drag link may be okay as far as angles at the ends go, but the short link for the driver-side wheel is way too off - I'd look into running solid link from knuckle to knuckle, and then relocate the drag link's attachment to be on top of the passenger side knuckle arm, not below it like tis now.

i agree you cant just pull the blocks from the springs to lower it without considering the center axle pivot. if it was a solid front axle it would be fine but not a TTB set up. i have also heard welding them is a bad idea, i cant say from personnal experiance though since i just steer clear of them. that and like i said they are illegal here.

how bad is the bump steer with those steering linkage angles? they should be as flat as possible.

the truck is real nice but i like to see a safe set up for everyone.

 

[fx4wannabe]

Really need to just get bigger springs made. I had a 4" lift on my old f250 and i had all kinds of problems with it. Solid axle all the way for me.

 

[4x4TruckinGirl]

My thought is.... when i get the money of course.... to just replace the blocks with a proper leaf spring lift or some shackles..... For now it will do.....

 

[cgraham]

Solid axle all the way for me.

What were those engineers smokin' when they came up with the TTB suspension, anyways. They certainly weren't thinking of lift kits or tire wear. I like the truck, I think it looks great , but I wouldn't own a Ford without a Dana 60 front end. Iv'e had enough problems with Fords, I don't want to have to worry about a retarded TTB front suspension.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

the TTB is a stronger alternative of the Chevy-style IFS, tis generally designed to meet the regular-joe buyer's request for a better ride and handling than a solid axle can provide but without going with an all car-like setup with double A-arms and such. Most heavy duty trucks that see lots of abuse still use solid axle to these days, coil-sprung now, but still solid axle. And the lift kits... well, if you think TTB is bad, try lifting and IFS Chevy

 

[greythorn3]

nice truck but them blocks gotta go they will get you hurt when they crack and spit out, the truck will look allot worse totalled with you in the hospital. i wouldnt wait long before fixing this.

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ray

Also the steering is at its max, i would like to see the other corners that were cut saftey wise on this rig.. get it inspected good before doing any hauling for sure. notice the drivers ubolts are new where as the passangers side is rusty and old looking, wonder if they had some recient trouble with the drivers lift block.. youll get hell of a death wobble with that steering linkage on hard bumps.. and that will cause allot of stress on the linkage and them blocks.

 

[Cat_Rebel]

nice truck but them blocks gotta go they will get you hurt when they crack and spit out, the truck will look allot worse totalled with you in the hospital. i wouldnt wait long before fixing this.

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ray

Also the steering is at its max, i would like to see the other corners that were cut saftey wise on this rig.. get it inspected good before doing any hauling for sure. notice the drivers ubolts are new where as the passangers side is rusty and old looking, wonder if they had some recient trouble with the drivers lift block.. youll get hell of a death wobble with that steering linkage on hard bumps.. and that will cause allot of stress on the linkage and them blocks.

Is it me or doesn't the driver's side block look like it's sticking out alittle?
All said & don't ALOT less hassle & less money to get it taken care of now then to deal with it afterone of them blocks shoots out & causes major carnage! Nothing against lifted truck, I love em. Just got to be done right.

 

[greythorn3]

ya i would just remove them and remodify the middle drop bracket to where it was when they bought it before they added on length and run it 2 inches or 3 inches lower so it would be allot safer.

Ray

 

[Cat_Rebel]

ya i would just remove them and remodify the middle drop bracket to where it was when they bought it before they added on length and run it 2 inches or 3 inches lower so it would be allot safer.

Ray

In some ways wouldn't it be better off dropping down to stock/slightly lifted height then starting over the right way?

 

[greythorn3]

well as you can see it has lift springs in it already, so i would just remove the blocks and modify the bracket.. the original hole might still be in it.. have to get a closer look at it. if not drill the holes and cut the excess off and brace it up. or order a new drop bracket cant be that much maybe 100 bucks.

Ray

 

[4x4TruckinGirl]

I got it to my guys over at the 4x4 place and they looked over the whole truck and that was their only complaint, being them front end lift blocks.... they're going to figure out a plan to keep the truck at this height, maybe an inch lower in the front do the truck sits even and would get rid of the blocks, so all in all it just needs 2" in the front end once the blocks are gone to keep it even..... they said the rest of the lift and whatnot looked pretty solid and liked the truck. For now it's going in for an alignment tomorrow..... Other than that, no complaints!

oh i also got a quote on a paint job.... seems ridiculously cheap.... 1300 bucks?!?! Thats with a little body work to get a few dents out, said they'd need the truck for at least 5 days..... and it would be 2 tone paint..... What do ya'll think?