New Moose Jr pump and Moose mate injectors

[Crankybait]

Placed an order with the folks at Conestoga Diesel late last week and I am eager to receive the new Moose Jr. pump and the Moose mate injectors. I have worked to vehicles most of my life but with this being my first diesel I was nervous about doing the work myself. Talked with a couple of the guys there and they quieted my anxiety of a fairly major repair on my truck. I feel confident that I will be able to perform the install myself now. The pump on the truck now is dumping fuel left and right and when using the A/C you get a blast of raw fuel smell thru the vents bad enough to burn your eyes. It's even been leaving a trail of fuel on the ground when you turn a corner. It's parked until the parts show up and this gives me time to fix the brakes since the pedal went to the floor the other day. Never did like taking a full floating rear axle apart to do brake work.

I will ask if there are any tips that will aid in the install of the pump and injectors. Hopefully with the lines and injectors out of the way I can then get to the glow plugs on cylinders #3 and #4 that until now have been to hard get to.

 

[IDIoit]

pull the IP and the lines at the same time.
chuck up the IP in a vice with the new pump right next to it,
and install the lines out of the truck.
the injectors don't get in the way of the plugs, the lines and turbo do.
browse the timing registry, for someone around you with a meter, if no one is close,
contact "icanfixall" for a meter rental.
make sure you get the injector bores clean.
an electric fuel pump speeds up the IP prime process.
read the directions from CDI.

also
very rare, but be prepared for a "runaway"
have the intake accessible to choke off the air.
I use a ATS turbo hat just in case.

 

[riotwarrior]

Placed an order with the folks at Conestoga Diesel late last week and I am eager to receive the new Moose Jr. pump and the Moose mate injectors. I have worked to vehicles most of my life but with this being my first diesel I was nervous about doing the work myself. Talked with a couple of the guys there and they quieted my anxiety of a fairly major repair on my truck. I feel confident that I will be able to perform the install myself now. The pump on the truck now is dumping fuel left and right and when using the A/C you get a blast of raw fuel smell thru the vents bad enough to burn your eyes. It's even been leaving a trail of fuel on the ground when you turn a corner. It's parked until the parts show up and this gives me time to fix the brakes since the pedal went to the floor the other day. Never did like taking a full floating rear axle apart to do brake work.

I will ask if there are any tips that will aid in the install of the pump and injectors. Hopefully with the lines and injectors out of the way I can then get to the glow plugs on cylinders #3 and #4 that until now have been to hard get to.

DO NOT REMOVE THE IP TOWER.......W 4 BOLTS

REMOVE THE IP FROM THE TOWER....that keeps the gears timed correctly and it is easy to do.

Also get engine timed correctly...see timing registry.

Please fill your signature in so we have an idea of engine trans cab configuration etc of veh.

If the sterling rear....then drums slide off over hubs...easy peasy...but without knowing details on vehicle...its pointless to offer advice except in the most general of terms....

 

[icanfixall]

I bet the drums slide off the hubs easy as said... Unless they are rusted in place. As already posted.. No idea what year rig your working on.
I'm sure the good people at Conestoga walked you thru the correct way to remove the pump and install. Just make sure you have the 5/16 socket for those 3 drive bolts. If any of them get ruined taking them out Nappa sells the same bolts in the universal joint repair kits. the torque is huge at 25 ft lbs for such a small bolt. but they are hardened so they take the strain. Mel uses his tried and true thumb torque. He will press time it hurts and that is the torque. He has verified this "feeling " too. The pump comes out easy. Remove the throttle cable bracket on the air horn. then the feed line from the injection pump filter. When all the injector lines are loose and the three drive bolts are out of the gear you push the pump towards the intake manifold. Shift it towards the drivers side and rock out the rear of it between the 2 studs on the passenger side. Lift up and its free now. Going in is reverse. Can't mess up the gear to pump timing either. It can only fit one way.
If you have a ruff time HAND threading the hard lines to injectors stop.Make sure you have not cross threaded the nut to injector. The line nut is harder than the injector so the injector threads will be hurt. No problem. Remove injector and use a knife edge file to correct the threads. Re install injector loose and hand tighten the line nut. Back it off a little and tighten the injector again. Easy. you can also loosen the lines on the pump for more free play when trying to get them threaded to the injectors. Start at the back hard to reach injectors because you do not want to have isues way back there. My hard to thread injector is number 1 at the filter. Also note every cylinder number is marked on the intake ports to the heads. Drivers side is even numbered and passenger side is odd numbers front to back.
You purchased the best pump and injector money can buy plus you have the best forum for any help during this work. This forum has thousands of hours of this kind of work done by many very knowledgeable people.

 

[riotwarrior]

Lmao....I frequently use my calibrated hand for torque too Gary.......thats funny.

Maybe not on that application....maybe yes...I wont tell...but blue locktite comes in oil resistant blends in big bottles....too which I am getting low btw.

Just sayin...some of us trust our finely honed touch...but no sword crossing

 

[gandalf]

You bought your new IP and injectors from Conestoga Diesel. Very good choice. They sell quality products. Mel, the owner, is a long-standing member here on this forum. Long ago he wrote an article on Servicing the Fuel System. (that is a clickable link). Read that several times before you start work replacing the IP and the injectors. It has a wealth of information on how to do the job properly.

As mentioned above, DO NOT remove the gear tower. Remove the IP from the gear tower. Doing things this way you will retain the timing as it was. You will still need to time the engine, but this way you will be relatively close. To remove the IP from the gear tower you must remove the plate from the front of the tower, exposing three bolts. A normal 12 point socket will loosen those bolts. Another three on the backside of the tower hold the IP from rotating--ie timing adjustment. One of the lower of those three is usually a read SOB.

Anyway, a picture of the three hidden bolts on the front side of the gear tower.

Also, again as mentioned above, remove the IP with the hard lines attached. I did it this way and had no problem. I then removed the hard lines from the IP as, I think, two groups of four, and transferred them to the new IP. Leaving them as groups of four insures that they go back on in the same relative position, IP to injectors.

Take plenty of pictures along the way. There are lots of times this helps in putting things back together. Besides that, we all love pictures.

 

[Crankybait]

Thanks for the tips on removing the IP and lines together, I have read that most do it that way. The guys at Conestoga pretty much walked me thru the entire process over the phone. Getting more than eager for the parts to show up. Hope they pack things well incase UPS or FedX tries a "hail mary" on shipping.

Dana axles under the beast, bought a spindle nut socket for our gasser E350 motorhome I'm hoping it's the right size for both axles.

This post is also a test for my opening signature.... Thanks !!

 

[Dieselcrawler]

If it's the 93 in your sig, the rear is a sterling 10.25 from the factory, not a Dana. Dana have inboard drums, sterlings have outboard.

 

[IDIoit]

Thanks for the tips on removing the IP and lines together, I have read that most do it that way. The guys at Conestoga pretty much walked me thru the entire process over the phone. Getting more than eager for the parts to show up. Hope they pack things well incase UPS or FedX tries a "hail mary" on shipping.

Dana axles under the beast, bought a spindle nut socket for our gasser E350 motorhome I'm hoping it's the right size for both axles.

This post is also a test for my opening signature.... Thanks !!

CDI prepares those pumps to be mailed through a nuclear blast.
you shouldn't have an issue. unless UPS seriously jacks it up.
but that will be visible, with the destroyed box.

 

[Crankybait]

I discovered that today..... MY BAD!!!!.. I must say it was nice to just pull a drum instead of the entire drum/hub assy. After a bunch of PB Blaster and massaging it with a brass drift it came loose.. Those bent retainer nails and springs are a pain to get back together.. Used a new hardware kit and I think I will put a little more "hook" in the nail. Still have the driver's side to do after I take the right side back apart to bend the nail more, with no garage to work in these days the rain stopped me short today. The steel brakes lines are shot so back to work for new lines...

 

[cpdenton]

Do you plan on setting the timing with a meter or just by ear?

If you ever make it down to central Arkansas, I would be happy to throw my meter on it and set it exactly.

 

[Crankybait]

It will have to be by ear here at the house, there are 2 good diesel shops here so I'll probably take it to 1of them. I never know where I might wind up when, if the shops charge to much I'll contact you about setting it...Thanks

 

[OLDBULL8]

Not mentioned, but when removing the injector line from #1, use two 5/8" wrenches, one to hold the extender, one to unscrew the line nut. Then remove the extender from the injector. Install reverse.

 

[Shawn MacAnanny]

You can use a 5/16" or 8mm 12pt socket for the 3 injection pump drive bolts. I acually had to go buy one because i didnt have one in the i dont know how many socket sets ive accumulated over the years.

You'll need a stubby 9/16 or 14mm wrench to reach the passenger side injection pump bolt. it can be done without a fancy wrench

 

[Crankybait]

Hoping to have the new pump and injectors one day next week. This old truck is giving me plenty of other things to fix while I'm waiting. The weather and work schedule have not been helping last few days