New member to the IDI fold

[TronDD]

I'd been searching for a truck to use as a tow/service rig for my rally car and for around the house chores. I settled on the simplicity and cheap parts of the IDI. Been hunting for the right one for a while.

Bought a truck today (and coincidentally got my authorization to post!). It's a 91 F250 4x4 7.3 with ATS turbo, extended cab XLT Lariat. A bit of rust around the edges but not bad for a 22 year old truck in New England.

It's had a lot of recent maintenance so it runs and drives really well. 230K miles, but with the recent maintenance and the E4OD trans just rebuilt, that doesn't seem too bad.

2 concerns I'll have to deal with is a little oil coming from the passenger front of the motor. Wires and hoses below are wet but there is nothing dripping on the ground.

Also the PO had never heard of cavitation. Has had "many of these trucks with 500K miles on them with no problems." Always used Valvoline Zerex green coolant and Royal Purple additive. Royal Purple says it prevents cavitation but I haven't found an references to anyone using it in these engines. First thing I'll do it test the coolant and replace if necessary.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

Tim.

 

[fordf350man]

welcome to the site, nice looking truck

 

[Dieselcrawler]

sounds like you already know what to look for. welcome.

 

[GOOSE]

Pics to go along with his first post. This guy's good. Welcome to Oilburners.

 

[icanfixall]

Pics to go along with his first post. This guy's good. Welcome to Oilburners.

And how... Welcome to the forum. Thats a nice looking truck... About this wet area up front on the passenger side. The only thing down there is the mechanical lift pump. So look under the alternater and vacuum pump. See if anything looks wetter in that area. The replacement pumps are cheap and easy to install but the rear most bolt is a little tuff to get to... If that pump is leaking ask questions on how to install the new pump on top of the cam lob..

 

[TronDD]

Thanks for the welcome. This is probably the easiest forum to post pictures on that I have seen. Most don't have the built in tools for it.

I have to get all the paperwork done and hopefully bring the truck home this weekend. I'll take a closer look at the oil leak and see if I can tell where it's coming from. The rest of the engine in pretty clean. Other trucks I looked at were just caked in oil and grime.

My daily driver is a 98 VW TDI so I'm not new to the diesel world. This is my first truck, though. I appreciate that these trucks have a dedicated group of enthusiasts. Lots of information to learn from.

Tim.

 

[TronDD]

Time to update my IDI journey. I've had a couple other threads about various things, but I figured I'd throw everything into one place.

So after I bought the truck, the injection pump blew up before it left the previous owners driveway. I bought and they installed a Baby Moose.
On the drive home with the truck, I heard a bunch of weird noises. A weird crackling noise was the most alarming thing.
As soon as I got the truck home, it wouldn't start. Replaced the glow plugs with Motorcraft, jiggled some wires. Eventually it decided to start consistently.
Then it wouldn't shut down. The glow plug wires melted the main engine plug inside and made a connection to the FSS wire. I bypassed the plug.
The crackling noise got louder. The rebuilt transmission was junk. Something had broken inside and was devouring the rest of the transmission. Had that rebuild. Also found that the transfer case pump mount had broken and the pump was spinning with the shaft and not pumping oil so the transfer case was shot. Put a used one in.
Brought the truck home for the trans shop, and two days later the little water pump leak turned into a gush. Replaced the water pump in the driveway in the heat wave. And while it was sitting there waiting on parts, I put in a relay headlight harness. The only unnecessary upgrade I've had time to do.
The only maintenance I've had time to do was tighten the rear brakes. Finally, an easy job that made a huge improvement!

I paid what I did for the truck because all of this stuff had been replaced or rebuilt. I've now paid almost double for the truck to get it where it was supposed to be.

I still need to find the reason for a lowish oil pressure and fix the floaty front suspension. Oh and the fuel gauge on one tank, and the vents because I can't fill them, and the rusted out body mount, and...and...

It makes it's towing debut for me next week. This is what I bought it for. If it's still running by then, I'll see how it does.

Tim.

 

[icanfixall]

Well your finally on your way it sounds like. Some things have to happen like they do but in the end its a cost efective rig compared to monthly payments for a new rig. The trucks are a cost easy way to haul the mud and pay back what they use too. Easy relieable rigs.

 

[Silentnoise]

welcome to the forum hope you finally have a little better luck with the truck!!

 

[Kevin 007]

What kinda of rear gears in it? With 3.55's it may be a good idea to keep it out of overdrive when towing heavy until your sure the trans is working well.

 

[argve]

ah yes the joys of owning an older rig but the repair bill sure beats the heck out of payments any month. Yes at first it seems like all you are doing is working on this and that, replacing this, that and the other thing but there comes a time when all the little stuff has been replaced and you really start seeing the benefits of your work and you will then realize that when the months start rolling by that the only thing you have spent is money on fuel why you drive an older vehicle with no payments. I would much rather put $300 a month into repairs for a few months then to have payments at that level or higher for 60 months non stop. Plus the cool factor of riding around in a older vehicle is AWESOME. Even with the way my truck looks with all the surface rust I get guys that comment on the truck and I love to tell them what I paid for it. It makes their jaws drop.... As they turn and climb into their $40,000 trucks and I climb into my $1500 truck.... that is priceless to me...

So don't get disheartened you will come to the end of the road of nickle and dime repairs and will enjoy a smooth running truck for a fraction of the cost of a newer rig.

 

[TronDD]

It's the life I chose I wouldn't trade it for some over priced appliance of a vehicle. The newest car I own is a 98, I've never had a car payment. I make my payments in the driveway fixing and upgrading.

The transmissions was a hard pill to swallow, but at least I know what is what in the truck.

Tim.

 

[89greendiesel]

I paid what I did for the truck because all of this stuff had been replaced or rebuilt. I've now paid almost double for the truck to get it where it was supposed to be.



Tim.

misery loves company.......you are in very good company.


welcome tim

nice truck

 

[IDIBRONCO]

What do you mean by lowish oil pressure? IIRC the spec is 10 psi at idle at operating temp. The guage reading low? Could be sending unit. I prefer and recommend mechanical guages. They're more accurate.

 

[TronDD]

Yeah the stock gauge reads low. It moves around between the center of the gauge and the line at the low end. I haven't found the place to screw in a real gauge to get an actual number. On the oil cooler I guess? Unless I just yank the stock sending unit.

Tim.