need some advice/help!

Headhunter_5.9

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Alright!

I’ve been wondering and pondering and trying to find the answer but couldn’t, so I’ve sucked it up and I’ll ask, which is what I should have done in the first place! cookoo

Got two issues possible Problems!

2000 Cummins w/ a5 speed, 171,000 Miles, 2x4. 65 HP bully dog, straight pipe. <-- NOT THE PROBLEM! :backoff

All pertant info outta the way, I’ll proceed!

First. I had a clutch put in it @ 150,000 things were fine, turned the fly-wheel, the usuals, at any rate recently it started w/ a weird grind/growl when in first or reverse, notice it more when the motor is under a minor load, the other deal it’s doing is bucking/jerking when backing up w/ a trailer when everything is warm! It sounds and feels like it’s in the drive train? Checked the U-joints and they seem to be all good!

OK problem 2!

I’ve been reading all the lift-pump “stuff” and I’m at a total loss here! I’ve noticed here lately that 4 gear is a DOG real weak and the boost seems to be mildly slow to respond when pulling the trailer! (4 horse, 22 ft.r) so before I go checking this and screwing up that, I guess what I’m looking for are some numbers, what’s the tolerable levels of Fuel Pressure at an Idle, cruise, wot? My learning curve here isn’t real steep and I’m not afraid to DIVE in as long as I’ve got some Knowledge of what the hell I’m doing! along w/ the best way to get said pressure checked!
And on the topic of the LP as far as I know it has NEVER been replaced! :eek: I got the truck w/ 81,000 on it and the PO had it from birth! So what’s going on under there I can Imagine but wanted to check w/ the experts prior to doing anything! I’ve read about moving the LP and about which “PUMP” to replace it w/! but I’ll ask again> what would be the best/easiest/most economical way to do this?

Thanks ya’ll

JOSH
 

J.Keith

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Check your tranny fluid and probably change it.
It also could be your throwout bearing or pilot bearing however these should be new with the clutch and ok.

Prob #2
Get a fuel pressure gauge on it asap and see how it's doing.
Since you've never checked it it's likely bad and don't be suprised if the injection pump is also. It's very common when these trucks are run with a bad lift pump.
The pressures you are looking for are 15-13 idleing and not less than 9-10 at WOT.
If it's less than 9 at WOT I would replace it right away. Hopefully no harm has been done to the injection pump.
The power problem you see on your 3rd to 4th shift could be just the fact that that is a very wide gap in the ratio's. Thats the biggest reason I think that alot of guys want a 6 speed for towing.
It could also be that with the lower fuel pressures and possibly a bad injection pump you are losing some power.

Does it have any codes?
Get some more info and I'lll try to help you out some more.

Joe
 

Headhunter_5.9

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Thanks Joe!

that's a big help! I called a place here to get the pressure checked on it and he can do in a week! -cuss so I'll look at that then!

I though of the pilot or thorwout bearing, but was w/ you that they should both be new! is there any way that the clutch isnt' lining up just right or out of adjustment?> or is there even any way to adjust these?


now Im into the dilema! do I just have them check the pressure of the lift and IP> and go from there and replace it my self? that's the route I'm looking more toward going! cause he quoted me ~$400 for the LP an inline filter and Labor! and I about :puke: :puke:

alright I'll get 'er checked out! I don't think there are any codes... I had some issues w/ the Bully Dog but outwhitted them! the code came back 'No communication between IP and ECU' cleared them and that was that!

alright I'll do what I can!

thanks again!
 

Headhunter_5.9

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allright if I was to check the pressure myself, how would I go about it? would I tap it above the filter assembly? this is all kinda greek to me fella's!

thanks

josh
 

J.Keith

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Check the pressure at the schrader valve on the IP.
It's fast and easy if you have the gauge.
I would suggest buying a gauge and mounting it inside the cab so that you can moniter it full time.
This is the gauge I use
You must be registered for see images


Some prefer a mechanical gauge with an isolater. This one works good for me

The noise in the tranny is likely a bearing or syncro. I'll ask a buddy about it tomorrow. May just need fluid or could possibly have the wrong fluid in it from the clutch swap.

Do the LP yourself. $180 or so at Napa and it only takes 30 mins MAX to change it. I've got to where I can do it in under 10 mins.
A relocate kit from
Vulcan is a great idea and relitivly cheap. I run one on my Dads truck and it really helped stabilize the pressure.

You can do the IP also if you need it. Take your time and it's easy. Around 3 hrs.
If you wanna talk it over PM me and I'll get you my phone #.
 

Headhunter_5.9

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*****UPDATE*****

took it to the trans shop that did the Clutch work, to just look into these trans issues. they couldn't get it to jerk in reverse or get it to make any noise, so I went down there and got it to do both! they tore it apart and are going to replace the clutch under warranty! ;Sweet but that's the good news! he told me that the Trans had quite a bit of metal shavings in it, they called back this morning, and the main shaft, the input shaft, 3rd and 5th gear all need to be replaced> -cuss

is this normal for these metal shavings to just show up in 10-12000 miles? could this have been caused by them putting in the wrong lube? I asked him on the phone today what lube they put in? he said they use what "they ship" with the parts???? what ever that means!

in the morning I'm gunna call and find out what FOR SURE they put in!
 

Wyatt Earp

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Or spend the money and install a FASS unit? Of course, anything (in my opinion) is better than the stock LP and far better than the in the tank version they are now using...

PS: J.Keith, nice picture!
 

Headhunter_5.9

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further update

well I got the truck back from the Trans. shop on monday, BUT the 5th gear that they put in still isn't right. it doesn't want to go into 5th and doesn't want to come out of Reverse! so they ordered the parts, and THEY are gunna put the new 5th gear in! not too bad got a new clutch (under warranty) and NOW I'm gunna get another 5th gear and Synco assembly!


THE LIFT PUMP!

got the guage last weekend, but it was useless until I got the truck back. so I checked the pressure on the old LP, and it was only at about 8.5 at an idle and dropped clear to 2-3 at 2000-2500 RPS... :puke:

replaced it last night... ;Sweet 35 min from start to finish... and to think the shop I called to check it wanted $56 to just check the pressure and $150 for the pump install, and I got the guage for $45 shipped to the house. not to mention the $$$ savings from getting the pump from Napa.. to date I'm about $160 ahead by doing it all myself..... Thanks JOE! :hail :hail
at any rate I checked the pressure of the new LP and it's at 13-14 at an idle and stays above 12 at 2500 RPM's!

and yes that was the FACTORY LP.... w/ 172,000 miles on it! think I may have gotten lucky!

now for the fun task of the front Wheel Bearing assembly! after all this I'll be a regular 'ole mechanic > over worked and under paid!

I figure when the Truck Fund gets the Band-aid off of it I'll probably move the pump back by the tank! and get an in the cab FP guage!

thanks again JOE! first 5 on me in Sept!
 

J.Keith

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Ok Josh your on!
Glad you got the LP done and the tranny issues are being resolved!

Happy trails!
Joe
 

24VChevy

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I hope they put in the new updated fully spined main shaft and 5th gear along with the updated 5th gear nut. If they installed the synco ring on backward for 5th you will get the hard 5th gear engagment also.

Best of luck

Malcolm
 

CumminsTex

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IMHO the FASS pump or somthing close to it is the way to go. I've got 16psi at idle and it never drops below 13.5psi. But way to go, you might not need a IP. Get a FP gauge quick though!
 

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