Need crew cab info

[mabc926]

Void

Void

 

[saltbranch]

My 89' is a Tx truck and pretty much rust free, but here is where I have rust.
The drip rail and roof area associated, the lower corner of DS back door and under the cab- floor board, just under driver foot area. Also have some rust bubble starting around the windshield trim, mainly on roof part.

 

[Matrix37495]

I wouldn't trade, but i can't stand the bricknose trucks.

For rust, above each wheel, rockers, cab corners, cab mounts....

Trans, no idea. I had to have one rebuilt at 108k and some people's last til 225k....at the very least change the trans filter and look at the fluid in the pan for anything shiney. The torque converter is probably getting pretty worn by now....

 

[Silver Burner]

I take it you wouldn't miss having a 4X4? What auto is it? C6 or E4OD? I would check the fluid to see how nice and red it looks. That might indicate if it's been taken care of at least to a point (unless it looks brand spankin new, in which case he might have just changed it to hide something). Shift through each gear and note how solidly it engages from park to reverse to neutral to drive. Feel for any slipping when you're driving it. make sure it engages each gear solidly as you increase speed and just feels like a normal trans should feel. Look underneath to see if it's caked with fluid and gunk or if there is anything leaking out of the bellhousing. Check the driveline. Shake it back and forth to see if the U-joints are good and tight. See if the E-brake works or if it's siezed up. I like to see if the dash lights are all working, but I'm kinda **** like that. One more thing, ask him to leave the truck sit until you come so you can see it start up bone cold. Tells you a lot about the health of the motor and everything supporting it (GP's, IP, injectors, etc...)

 

[Diesel_brad]

Looks like rust right in the rear wheel well.

but common spots are the rad support being GONE. The fenders, the bottoms of the doors,wheel wells, the lower rear corner of the bed under the taillight, and bottom of tailgate. The cabs were pretty good on the F-serires

 

[langevette]

Oh, I'll miss having a 4x4, but I'm not a fan of the stock t-case, and the ttb under my f250 needs swapped with a dana 60 anyways, so converting this truck to a 4x4 will still cost about the same as swapping everything I want into my truck.

And I'd guess an E4OD, but I will hope for a C6!!

And thanks for all the info guys, if I end up trading for the truck the plan will be:

4x4 conversion with a divorced twin stick Np205 (there is a reason for twin stick), and a Dana 60 from under an OBS PSD (easier parts) with an RSK.

And it will either be getting repowered with a built turbo 6.9 T19 GV combo, or a 12V NV4500 GV combo. (not sure if a GV will really help the 12v or not...)

Then after all of that it will be on to the 92-97 front clip conversion, and a flatbed.

So as you can see all I want is a running and driving shell to use for the time being.

It would be a pretty big build, but after it's done I know it will be exactly how I want it.

You could buy mine for 13K, and I'll even include a nice flat bed and 205 case
Sounds like you have thougt this out, should be cool when you get her done.
Matthew

 

[bghnkinf350]

It sounds like it might NOT be good for you. I would likely keep my eyes open for a 4wd cc maybe even a gasser, if you plan on swapping engines anyway. Could likely be cheaper for you in the long run.

 

[Leeland]

You have a truck with less miles, 4x4, a stick, and a turbo. I wouldn't give that up for two extra doors, I'd just buy a non runner and trade parts around and call the scrap man when I was done.

 

[Optikalillushun]

That truck is a piece of ****. No rust? i can see a gaping hole on the rear wheel well, something happened to the bed after the rear tire and those holes where the western mirrors were are good places for rust.

 

[Leeland]

I found a 1990 F350 4x4 crew cab with a E4OD and a 460 for $2,500, thing looked nice, but before I could call it sold



I've been looking for a parts truck, but they are either rusted out, or people want the price of gold for them.

And I have not found ONE crew cab parts truck.

Scrap price is high right now and people are cashing in

I forget some areas it's harder to find stuff than in others. There's been a couple of crew duallies here for under 500$. I guess just be patient, never fails, after you buy some thing you find a another truck in better condition for the same money....

 

[Knuckledragger]

If the guy wants to swap, it is a good bet that he knows he is getting a deal. Be cautious. If you like your turbo 4x4, keep it and keep watching for a donor, unless you really need two more doors and don't mind the extra length. A real pain parking in the city.

 

[bike-maker]

I went from a ECLB, to a CCSB, to my current CCLB; they ALL sucked in parking lots. But in a CCLB, you're guaranteed to get more exercise, because there's no way you're going to fit in a single parking spot without hanging out somewhere.
I regularly haul the wife plus 4 kids, which just doesn't work out in an ex. cab. A crew cab is WAY nicer if you have passengers all the time.

 

[gunz]

The thing many people dont realize is that a crew cab 4x4 thats rust free is dang hard to find. (even in the south) I am doing the same swap becasaue i wanted a rust free crew cab. Found my 1991 and a 1986 when I was looking but the 86 is an ugly front end and the interior was dated ( IMO) so I went with the 91. Swapping in the dana 60 only took about 2 days, but now I could do it much quicker.

 

[Diesel_brad]

But that truck doesnt look rust free and it looks beat, HARD

 

[bghnkinf350]

It just seems you are going from a 4 wd to 2 wd to go back to a 4 wd with a lot of work! You then have to do the manual trans swap. It sounds like you will be doing an engine either way. You then have to buy the axle, trans, and all the other stuff. It just seems you could start off with a truck close to what you want then take the other parts off the current truck.