The_Josh_Bear
Full Access Member
Unfortunately there is not a good way to find TDC without taking a good chunk of hardware off the engine since we can't stick something down the injector/GP hole to find the piston at TDC due to the pre-cup design. So pulling the timing cover is one way, or as most of us have done just time it, drive it, repeat. It's not glorious but it works.So how would I know if the timing mark / damper is clocked wrong? I’m guessing I would need to find TDC on #1 and check the position of the timing notch on the damper? I’m at a loss here .......
It's good to finally see a picture of your IP, just start advancing it. Loosen both the injector and IP side of the lines a 1/2 turn and you're fine. That will give you lots of movement-- IMO 2 dimes width at this point is making more work for yourself. I personally would have no qualms bumping it 1/4" and going from there.
As an example, even if you found yourself advanced to 15* BTDC it would run and not damage anything short term. But don't drive around like that as I may erode GP's. But people have done it! Point is don't be worried to get after it.
Now I see it:
Check out your picture, the square block on the IP under the copper return line. Usually the mark on the IP is roughly inline with the center of that square which puts it centered to the upper hold down/adjustment bolt. In your case that mark is seriously retarded, all the way to the edge of the square. No wonder!
BTW that square block is the best way to adjust the IP, using a crescent wrench or end wrench if you have one big and snug enough.
And furthermore, we all have to advance our timing past the stock mark that's centered-ish on the square. So your timing is making more and more sense now.
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