My Big Blue Ox build....

[riotwarrior]

Decided pop rear plugs out of my 7.3 in the shop. Well looks like the engines oil cooler blew up.

Here ya go see the GUNK...ugh...not a good sign IMHO.

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Right side

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Left side...

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Gunk...ugh

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Hmm...1/4" NPT oil semder??? To 1/8" srandoff...Hmmm

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Back of head indicating weird numbers ......notice allen head pipe plug too.

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Nice might just get block up on stand...no plugs...and preassure wazh it with no plugs and hope I get most of gunk out....then when I i stall engine use boatload of Calgon dishwasher detergent to flush engine and rad too...rinse a d instal good coolant and filter....well filter while flflush then new one when done couple cycles...of detergent.

Also removed front bumper in prep for D60 swap. I cant wait to hq e the Solid axle...no mo baked chicken wing craptastic front end.

Thanks for looking.

Al

 

[icanfixall]

Al was there any water in the oil??? Can't say for certain the oil cooler let go but you will know once the bundle heads come off. Could be a poorly installed cooler gasket too. As for the allen head bolts in the ends of the heads. Remove one and check it out. Those are on both ends of the heads are a a design drain back port of aux air pumps and the sort. Remember these engines were found in heavy truck like the International S1600 and dump truck platforms too. They required air brakes and needed pressure fed oil and a return. The feed area plugs are found behind the oil cooler bundle and are 1/4 inch on the turbo blocks or 1.8 inch on any other idi block. But just because you have 1/4 inch plugs that alone will not be the determining fact you indeed have an actual turbo engine.

 

[riotwarrior]

I was told cooler let go...rad full of gunk too so want to cycle a couple of times with cascade az I said in a clean rad and do the block may get gunked rqd tanked at rad shopor fill with hot water n cascade let soak drain repeat

 

[riotwarrior]

Well at this point it would appear that the engine in question that I have is from Wilson and Proctor http://www.wilsonandproctor.com.

That would fit with the history of this truck that I hqve been told.

Also the Funky WP stamp on the heads and block seem to indicate same.

I am going to contact Fred at WP on Monday with the engine serial and stamped no and same with head no's as well. If I can fi d the paperwork on the truck I may have the previous owners company name too.

All this to find out history of the remanned engine.

Thanks to @bblaweless and his thread for the sudden epiphany

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?74593-White-Smoke-After-IP-Swap

As he mentioned the Wilson Proctor name in there.

This is getting very interesting and what a small world.

 

[KZF250]

Did Al really just use the Tag feature...hell must have froze over.

 

[riotwarrior]

Ok e ough tag crap.

Here is this afternoons progress... oh and @83ford btw.....

Here is today.

Truck on stands wheels off baked chicken wings ready to come out of service

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Ahh see that ...ya that over on the left there. ...thats 1 of my 2 60's and this ones going in

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Hmmm chicken wings hangin by a bolt or two...ok the rear spring eye bolts required some blue flame wrench love and surgery and rotory abrasive disk love... cut heads off bolts with torch ground slag away...cut bolt ends off with abrasive wheel...pry open spring perches drop out springs tap perches back into alignment.

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There are still 2 TTB mtg brackets left and two rear spring eye bolts to contend with along with a steering box...I am replacing the whole box for now from my F350.

Wings be removed... no mo flapping about steering and so forth...ugh.

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Buh bye....

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Ahhh...wingless finally....did I mention how repulsivle wing axles are to me....steering box is gone too.

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Ahhh blessed be the one with two Dana 60's this one being the one going in with an F350 steering box and pitman arm.

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I pulled wheel/tyres and shocks and sway bar so I can get the axle in place and that is where it sits for tomorrow. I will install it tomorrow and be spanky happy full of joy joy cool when all done.

As this is a D60 swap and this has 4.10 gears instead of 3.55 I wont be connecting a front axle drive shaft. The shaft will go in once I swap a matching rear. The rear will be lunch box locked BTW.

Also as there is a ZF going in SOON the corresponding and correct cross member will be installed.

Thanks for looking

 

[IDIoit]

i dont see the front shackle perches on your frame..
you gonna do a RSK?
perfect time to slap some thick walled box tubing in and a front leaf hangers!

 

[riotwarrior]

i dont see the front shackle perches on your frame..
you gonna do a RSK?
perfect time to slap some thick walled box tubing in and a front leaf hangers!

Negative...slap it in...deal with the main issue which was a baked and sloppy pair of chicken wings.

I have the 2nd 60 I will play with...new kp etc and if my situation chqnges maybe slap an rsk n 4" lift.

This is remove n replace only mission...keeping it super simple this trip.

Thanks for looking

 

[IDIoit]

you stealing the front hanger perch, and rear mounts off something else?

if you dont have them, reversing the shackle could prove to be the same amount of work.

then its a simple spring swap for a 4" lift.

 

[Waystro]

Say is that a D50?

 

[riotwarrior]

Say is that a D50?

Is that a D50?

Ok with the comedy done. I was successful in installi g my D60 today.

For starters lets do some comparisons shall we.

Here on left d50 ttb shock on right D60 solid axle shock.

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Now onto the steering gear comparisons.

Pitman arm here is F250 notic shape and approximate length

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Here is the F350 pitman arm...notice shape difference from qbove pics and length

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That sums up two distinct differences from ttb shocks and pitman arms to D60

When working on steering and doing swaps it is a good idea to clean and lube your D slip shaft from box to column. Also inspect ragjoint too.

Notice here the brocken FLAT spring inside my F250 shaft one portion of the anemic steering.

Its broken and has a triangular piece about to fall out...yuppers NFG

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Here the triangular chunk has come out...this spring a d the plastic guide hold tension inside the shaft and keep the steering tight.

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Here and end shot showing the sleeve. When the spring and sleeve are worn or missing steering becomes sloppy to the point of an inch or more of play in the wheel.

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Here is the sleeve and spring on my F350 shaft...good condition and lubed up and it slides nicely and is good and tight.

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I ran a rat tail file through all spring eye bushings to clean out rust. I then used Marine Grade Antiseize

Here you can see couple wheels mounted to roll the bad boy in place

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60 in rear eye bolts slipped in place

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So this is where I take a break...brb more pics coming

Thanks for looking

 

[riotwarrior]

Here is what I used on all the bolts...slipped a floor jack under axle and lifted it and voila golden. With the sleeve and bolt slathered in anti seize it will come apart nicely

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Repeat process on other side and this is what it looks like hanging loose.

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End result all torqued up and so forth...still need swap rear tyres and eventually a diff and locker

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Main spring eye bolts torque 120-150 I did 150

Front upper eye bolt 150-210 I did 200

I will add this...I loosely had nuts on bolts and before I tightened up spring eye bolts I mounted tyres up and let truck zit down on all four wheels supporting its own weight.

THEN AND ONLY THEN DID I TORQUE THE SPRING BOLTS DOWN.

Damn easy swap.

Need to recheck all bolts in hundred k of driving.

I am going to swap out brake pads too for some new ones right quick.

Truck rides and steers and rolls nice...very slit pull to right...could be tyre pressure not sure.

Thanks for looking

 

[Can30Diesel]

Looks good man! Then again, D60's always look good when they replace chicken wings!

 

[riotwarrior]

Thanks Chris now get yer ass in gear on yer Bronco build....

 

[IDIoit]

Thanks Chris now get yer ass in gear on yer Bronco build....

x2, yet Al cant talk...
wheres that SC Bronco