More Dana 50 questions

[fields_mj]

A few months ago I had asked about swapping the center chunk out on a Dana 50. I had hoped to wait until spring to do it, but I lost another seal on it this weekend, and now I'm leaking some pretty nasty oil out of the rear of the center chunk where the drive shaft goes in.

Soooo, this week I'll be getting quotes from a couple of shops on what it will cost to swap out my rear diff gears. I have a set of 3.55s to put in that will match up with the new(er) center chunk that I have. Once that's done, I'll be buying the required tools (Tq wrench, IR 236 impact, and what ever else you guys tell me to get) and spending a sick day swapping out that center chunk.

Here's my question. From the last post that I made, it sounds like I take out the 4 U bolts that go through the flange assembly, and then the mounting bolts on the front cross member, and then I should be able to knock the center chunk off pretty easy. What about the front drive shafts? They stick into the pumpkin, and it sure looks like I would need to slide them out of there some how. What is the best way to do that?

Also, before I install the pumpkin, I would like to replace the seals and bearings. Those for the drive shafts look pretty straight forward, but what about the seals and bearings on the Pinion? Is there a way to get them out with out tearing everything down?

Lastly, I need a list of all the tools that I'll need for the job. I don't need to know sockets and wrenches, but I do need to know about slide hammers, torque wrenches, gear pullers, good pliers and such.

Thanks,
Mark

 

[franklin2]

I am not sure what u-bolts you are talking about? I took my front diff out, and I pulled the driver's side area completely apart, starting with the wheel and working my way in till I could pull the axle out.

For what I was doing I also had the pass side wheel area torn down, but I would look at it and see if after you do the above and take the driveshaft off, if you could just pull the center section out by pulling the splines out of the passenger side axle after pulling the boot loose. Getting it back together that way will probably take two people though.

 

[65sixbanger]

I think he is talking about the U joint U bolts....

 

[Goofyexponent]

yes. Knock those Universal U blts out and pry the caps out with a big screwdriver or a small probar. Make sure to NOT lose any of the needle bearings inside. They are a PITA to get back in there right.

There are 8 or 10 bolts on the front of the beam that holds the 3rd member in (the pumpkin). There are also 2 bolts on the side of the 3rd member. They are on the left side of the pumpkin if you are looking at it from the rear.

You will need to remove both front tires, both locking hubs, both beake calipers, both front hubs and both spindles from the knuckles (I think) to get the axles out. You can pull the 3rd member with the passenger side axle in the truck, but it's not fun!

What I did to pull my spindles was reoce the bolts that hold it to the kuckle, put one of the wheeb bearing retaining nuts on there. Then I tapped it until it broke free from the knuckle. A couple taps left, then right , then left, then right ...etc. Don't hit this too hard!!

I HIGHLY reccomend getting about 3 or 4 bolts that are the same size and thread as the ones holding the pumpkin to the beam from the front. Grind the heads off them and thread them into the pumpkin loosely. This will help guide it into place on the install. Once it is in place and you have a couple of bolts holding it in place, remove the home made dowels and replace them with the bolts that go in there. This will help a LOT!!

While it's apart, it's a good time to check axle joints, bearings, brakes and ANYTHING else that can wear in there. Make sure to antiseize EVERYTHING, especially th esplines where the axle slips into the pumkpin on the passenger side. Hopefully it pulls apart easily for you, but my dana 44 setup in my F150 wouldn't let go...heat wouldn't even get it out...along with a strap on the driverside frame holding it to a pole and a come along on the passenger side axle pulling from another pole.

I think to do the pinion bearings you need to tear the thing dowm completely. Seals aren't too bad, just make sure everything is clean and dry when you install them.. If there any play in the old bearings? If not, I would just replace the seals and not touch it. Unless your hubs ar elocked in, the front drivehaft won't turn at all unless you have the T case engaged.

The truck may have 100K on it for example, but the front end driveline (minus the wheel bearings) may only have 5k on it for wear.

 

[fields_mj]

Got it! That's all about what I figured. I'm just trying to get an idea of what it's going to take to get the job done. I have the '93-'94 service manuals, and they pretty much describe the same things that you guys are telling me, so that's reassureing. The up side is that the wheel bearings were all replaced in August, and the drivers side seals and U Joints were replaced in October, so most of it should come out pretty easy.

Another question. The dust covers, bearings, and seals for the drive shafts, should they be the same on both sides? On the 3rd member that I'll be putting in, I've only got a seal and bearing on one side, and I can't tell from the various diagrams if both sides should be identical or not. I would think so, but I can't tell one way or the other. I want to make sure that I have the new 3rd member 100% ready to go before I start.

Thanks,
Mark

 

[Double-S-Diesel]

the seal on each side of the chunk is different, #s I have is a national 470672 and a spicer 40710
also the driver side axle pulls out, but the stub on the pass side had a c clip that holds it in. c clip can only be removed once the chunk is out.

 

[fields_mj]

also the driver side axle pulls out, but the stub on the pass side had a c clip that holds it in. c clip can only be removed once the chunk is out.

I noticed that in the service manual. I guess this raises the question of how do I get the pass side drive shaft out so that I can remove the chunk. I'll have to go back and read the service manuals again.

 

[Double-S-Diesel]

split the pass side at the slip joint

 

[Goofyexponent]

The passenger side axle will separate at the slip joint, but to pull the passenger side stub axle from the pumpkin you will need to pull the C clip.

When the pumpkin comes out there will be a piece of axle stuck to the passenger side about a foot long. This is normal.