Moose Pump Install

[dtrujillo63]

I just got done installing the famous Moose Pump (Junior) and a new set of BB injectors. I have a couple of questions regarding my install, can you guys take a look at the attached diagram and approve or disapprove on how I connected my return line kit? Since I have a 7.3 IDI Factory Turbo, it normally uses two "3-way Injector Caps" to interconnect the fuel return lines between the left and right injectors. Unfortunately, the new return line kit didn't include these "3-way" caps so I had to improvise. Second, I statically timed the new pump to the factory markings. After I completed the installation of the new pump and injectors, I noticed the engine has a knock to it. I assume this is because the timing is off. I plan to drive it over to a diesel shop to get it dynamically timed, but I wanted to make sure it's safe to drive?

Thanks for the help!

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[gatorman21218]

the injection lines are fine.

Try loosening one injector line at a time while the engine is running and see if the knock goes away. the knock is most likely an injector.

On second thought... if you just got her running, you probably still have a lot of air in the system. it should go away after a short drive

 

[justinray]

Return setup will work, and its probably too advanced, causing the knock.

 

[Hydro-idi]

You should be fine driving it for a little while. If the engine has a loud knock to it, take it easy on the throttle until it is properly timed. Too much advanced timing generates too much heat and you can melt your glow plug tips and other engine components.
Your engine, however, will more than likely be a little noisier than it used to with the old pump.

 

[f-two-fiddy]

Check to make sure all the inj's are sealed to the head. Spray a little nonflammable penetrating oil on the inj threads while the engine is running. If you see any bubbles, the inj is not sealed

 

[icanfixall]

That return setup will work but watch how close the rear cross over gets to the hot turbo. I sent you a pm about helping work on the rig but I'm guessing you couldn't wait. Thats fine. What torque did you use on the injecters. Its supposed to be 35 lbs. If you have a standard tran your fine but if you have an auto trans what did you set the tps switch for. As for the knock it could be lots of differant things. Trapped air probably isn't one of the possible reasons but advance could be one reason. As the engine warms up and comes down off fast idle and internal advance from a cold start soes the engine sound get softer...

 

[dtrujillo63]

That return setup will work but watch how close the rear cross over gets to the hot turbo. I sent you a pm about helping work on the rig but I'm guessing you couldn't wait. Thats fine. What torque did you use on the injecters. Its supposed to be 35 lbs. If you have a standard tran your fine but if you have an auto trans what did you set the tps switch for. As for the knock it could be lots of differant things. Trapped air probably isn't one of the possible reasons but advance could be one reason. As the engine warms up and comes down off fast idle and internal advance from a cold start soes the engine sound get softer...

Hey Gary, I decided to knock it out yesterday with the help of my brother. I torqued down the injectors to 33lbs (per Mel's article). I was wondering about the TPS since I have an automatic. I tried bolting it on in the exact same position it was on originally. What's the process to correctly set it?

 

[icanfixall]

To set the tps you will need a digital voltmeter. The setting can be done warmed up or cold engine. Id done warmed up the fast idle and advance has to be off. This usually happens when the coolant reaches 120 degrees. If the tps is to be set on a cold engine just remove the wire to the rear connection on the injection pump and the wire to the fast idle solenoid. The center wire on the tps switch is where you need to take the voltage readings from. I use the test lead points and push thru the plastic on the wire. Make sure the ground is connected directly to the battry. Now turn the ignition switch to the on position but engine off... Not started and running. Read the voltage on the meter now. It should read from .96 to 1.2 volts. The 1.2 reading is for a harsher shift and most like that. The .96 reading is a very soft shift. Just loosen the two bolts that keeps the tps tight to the pump and rotate it either direction needed. Before this is done its a good idea to check the throttle action to see if the peddle actually goes all the way open or full throttle. When the throttle is wide open your voltage will be around 4.5 volts. Never allow it to reach 5.0 or higher. That causes the computer to break circut and limp home mode is whats next... Not a fun way to drive these E4OD trans trucks... A very hard shift that almost breaks your neck its that hard... Really ******* the trans and drivetrain too. Its design is only to get you off the rods or to the dealer.. If you having trouble getting the required voltage it might be due to how you installed the throttle tab that the tps feels to rotate it...

 

[dtrujillo63]

No matter what I do, I can't seem to adjust the tps so that it has an idle voltage of anything below 2. It either has no idle voltage or 2 if I turn the tps completely towards the front of the truck. Maybe I installed the tps and it's bracket wrong when I switched it from the old pump to the new one. I noticed that the new pump had a pin running through where the tps lever mounts to. My old pump didn't have this, it had a round adaptor with two allen screws. On the new pump, I removed the pin and installed the round adaptor with the allen screws. The tps sensor then mounts to that. Does that sound correct?

 

[dtrujillo63]

Forgot to mention, the top wire had 9v at idle and the bottom wire had a constant 5v no matter what. Not sure if that's normal.

 

[dtrujillo63]

Here are some pictures that show the pin that I was referring too. I had to remove it to install the round lever with the allen screws. Did I do that right?

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[icanfixall]

The attachments wont work.. there is a wrong way to mount that tab to the throtle shaft but you need that item on the shaft. Move the switch slowly to watch the voltmeter show the voltage. Like posted. The center wire is where you get the .96 to 1.2 volts from. Remove the tps from the pump and see what the votage shows. Its difficult to explain but you have to "wind" the switch on the tab as you install it. Look closely at the switch for the rusty marks that tab imprints on the correct sides of the switch area. I will look at what my tps looks lie on my engine and try to get back with some info.

 

[dtrujillo63]

I just fixed the attachments. Was I not suppose to remove the PIN that the arrow is pointing too? I couldn't get the round lever with the allen screws to go on without removing the PIN.

The attachments wont work.. there is a wrong way to mount that tab to the throtle shaft but you need that item on the shaft. Move the switch slowly to watch the voltmeter show the voltage. Like posted. The center wire is where you get the .96 to 1.2 volts from. Remove the tps from the pump and see what the votage shows. Its difficult to explain but you have to "wind" the switch on the tab as you install it. Look closely at the switch for the rusty marks that tab imprints on the correct sides of the switch area. I will look at what my tps looks lie on my engine and try to get back with some info.

 

[icanfixall]

Thats correct... That pin is not used with our tps switch so it must be removed. If thats what was driving your tps on the other pump someone installed it wrong.. Now to install that tab to the throttle shaft you need to see one of the allen screws from the top. The other allen screw will be below that towards the front of the injection pump. Push the tab on the shaft till you feel the hole in the shaft as the allen in slightly tightened into the hole in the shaft. Rock the tab back and forth till it centers well. tighten it. Now open the throttle completely and tighten the other allen screw. Done. Then look at the tps drive plastic piece. Set it to the tab so it has to be wound up back towards the front of the engine a bit till the attaching screws can be installed. Actually you have the factory screws with the torque hex on them. I prefer a standard hex bolt here. The bolt is a 1/4x28 thread with a 7/16 hex on it. but use what works for you. Install them loose but tight enough to hold a tps setting. now make the adjustments to reach what you want for voltage up to 1.2 volts on the center wire.

 

[dtrujillo63]

Thats correct... That pin is not used with our tps switch so it must be removed. If thats what was driving your tps on the other pump someone installed it wrong.. Now to install that tab to the throttle shaft you need to see one of the allen screws from the top. The other allen screw will be below that towards the front of the injection pump. Push the tab on the shaft till you feel the hole in the shaft as the allen in slightly tightened into the hole in the shaft. Rock the tab back and forth till it centers well. tighten it. Now open the throttle completely and tighten the other allen screw. Done. Then look at the tps drive plastic piece. Set it to the tab so it has to be wound up back towards the front of the engine a bit till the attaching screws can be installed. Actually you have the factory screws with the torque hex on them. I prefer a standard hex bolt here. The bolt is a 1/4x28 thread with a 7/16 hex on it. but use what works for you. Install them loose but tight enough to hold a tps setting. now make the adjustments to reach what you want for voltage up to 1.2 volts on the center wire.

That's exactly how I installed it. One of the allen screws is going through the hole in the throttle shaft, and the other is just tight on the shaft body. While looking at the pump, one screw faces up towards the sky, and the other is facing forward towards the front of the truck. I did have to wind the tps just a bit to get it onto the set screws. I'm now thinking that either my multimeter is not working or maybe I have a bad tps? I'm going to borrow a multimeter from work to see if I get different readings.

Thanks for all your help Gary!