Minimum brake shoe thickness?

[BDCarrillo]

Anyone know the minimum brake shoe thickness for a F350, SRW, Sterling 10.25?

My google-fu is weak this morning... I couldn't dig up an actual spec.

 

[OLDBULL8]

1/8"

 

[BDCarrillo]

Thanks! Does that include the backer plate, or is it just the friction material?

 

[OLDBULL8]

Friction material, when the friction material is gone, the brakes squeel pretty loud.

 

[Bashby]

Iirc, wv and va state inspections say 3/32 or less fails. I have measured shoes new in box at 3/32 to tbe rivet head.

 

[BDCarrillo]

.120 friction mat'l left, no visible studs for a depth measurement. Guess I'm poppin the drum brake cherry today

 

[PwrSmoke]

For future reference for all, manual says:

F250/350 Front Pad Minimum Lining Thickness: 1/32"
Rear Shoe Minimum Lining Thickness: not listed but 1/8" or a little less would be reasonable

 

[OLDBULL8]

Should have thought about it for brake shoes. If they are riveted shoes, worn down to the rivets, they should be replaced soon, on glued shoes, worn down to ~1/8" material left, they should be replaced, braking heat will sometimes melt the glue, resulting in material breaking loose. Front pads wearing down to 1/32" may be the spec, but getting down that close the glued material can break loose causing a rotor replacement. Pads just don't seem to wear evenly/flat, most are worn grooved, ie: run of the mill rotors.

 

[chris142]

Every shop I ever worked at recommended replacement when the lining was as thick as the arch. But im in ca and we have no safety inspections. Emissions only.

 

[BDCarrillo]

Great picture-rific how to: http://www.howstuffinmycarworks.com/Ford_F-250_brake_shoes_1.html

 

[G. Mann]

Another important measurement you need to look at is drum diameter. If the drums have been turned and are at or near the limit, the amount of shoe travel will give up a whole bunch of peddle travel to make contact. You take up the slack with the adjuster, but it all adds up to less time for your brake job to last.

I removed the automatic adjusters in 3 of my trucks with drum rears. I use the park brake peddle to tell me when it's time to lift a wheel and adjust the rear brakes.. takes about 20 min to do both sides by the time I pull out the floor jack and do it, but braking stays better than depending on the automatic mess that really doesn't work well.

 

[madpogue]

I removed the automatic adjusters in 3 of my trucks with drum rears. I use the park brake peddle to tell me when it's time to lift a wheel and adjust the rear brakes.. takes about 20 min to do both sides by the time I pull out the floor jack and do it, but braking stays better than depending on the automatic mess that really doesn't work well.

So what are you using in place of the automatic adjusters? True, automatic drum brake adjusters have never worked properly, in 60-odd years, but the automatic adjusters can be used manually; why not just use them?

 

[BDCarrillo]

If the cable and arm are removed, they are only manually adjustable. That's my best guess at it.

 

[PwrSmoke]

Strange, in nearly 30 years of own gin the truck, I've never had an issue with the rear adjuster. Always worked fine! They actually are the original brakes on the truck (lots of freeway opt rural miles, not much city). I get in there every five years or so and wash the dust out and add a little lube. Probably due now and will when I rotate tires next time.

 

[G. Mann]

Correct.. cable and arm removed. Then it acts like a regular adjuster..

It's what works for me.. it might not work for you if you don't want to do a manual adjustment.