Manual glow plug button good temp fix?

[Cubey]

If you mean the cover that slips on and covers the relay connections then replace that ASAP. I had a massive electrical issue in my truck because my throttle cable contacted those terminals due to the PO losing the cover. ended up roasting a whole lot in my electrical harness that I had to deal with.

Yep that one. I noticed that when I was in there. The plastic coating is ripped off the throttle cable a little further up toward the throttle, but not yet by the terminals. I’ll see about getting one ASAP. I may go back and wrap the throttle cable in electrical tape until then. Or put a corrugated type wire wrap over it. Anything to insulate it better until I get a cover. How does the cover install, by the way?

Edit:

I put wire wrap over the throttle cable and taped it up with electrical tape so it should be safe until I can find a cover. Pic below.

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[Cubey]

Oh and one more thing. I could probably stand to buy (make?) a new glowplug harness. Some of the plastic puller parts are missing. The bullet connections are all pretty tight however. But that will have to wait too. Maybe when I get the new plugs.

 

[ISPKI]

It has a little clip on either side of it that slide into grooves on the sides of the controller base. Its a pain in the rear especially when you run the extra wires for the manual setup but if you leave it off then you run a high risk of having an electrical fire in the middle of your fuel return system

 

[Cubey]

I gave the manual wire lots of slack and positioned the ring terminal the same way the original wire was, so putting a cover on may not be too hard.

It’s probably the original controller. It still had the red paper warning tag. I say did, because it tore off as soon as I barely grabbed it. Heck the little rubber cap on top of the stud is still there too. I put it back after I was done.

At least I don’t have leaking return lines anymore. I did all the all the o-rings and hoses months ago. So it’s a slimmer chance of a fire there.

Plus adding the extra insulation to the throttle cable should help avoid any disasters I’m the meantime.

 

[Cubey]

Hmm I can’t even find a picture of the cover.

 

[Cubey]

I would have to say this worked great. I held the button for about 8 seconds on a completely cold start and it fired right up on the first try with almost no studder.

 

[franklin2]

Oh and one more thing. I could probably stand to buy (make?) a new glowplug harness. Some of the plastic puller parts are missing. The bullet connections are all pretty tight however. But that will have to wait too. Maybe when I get the new plugs.

Those little plastic things over the connectors at each glowplug rotted off mine also. That is my main problem now, another reason why I went to the manual button. I checked all the plugs, replaced the bad ones, and the controller worked fine. 2 weeks later it started short cycling again. I went out and pulled each glowplug wire off, checked each plug, they were all still good, put it all back together, and the controller worked fine again. After doing this again another 2 to 3 weeks later I became suspicious so the next time it happened I just wiggled the connectors on each plug. Fixed it right up, so I know I have connection problems at the glowplugs.

You also need to follow your bundle of wires from the top of the engine over to the pass side fender. Along the way about at the A/C box there will be a large plug. Look at this plug carefully, it is probably melted. The two yellow wires that carry all the plug current are the ones that melt at the plug. You can cut these yellow wires out of the plug and attach them together, bypassing the plug and hopefully saving the plug from melting all the little wires.

 

[sgallaty]

I will speak out against moving the glow plugs ground to the ground for the relay and letting your pushbutton supply ground. You'll end up introducing a bunch of resistance and your pushbutton will arc and fail and you'll be pulling a bunch of amperage through the wrong wiring.

The glowplugs are high amperage, and the relay allows a low amp controller to drive a high amp work load. Keep it that way and dismiss any advice that tells you to change the ground configuration.

It's not a bad idea to have a bypass switch to run the glow plugs.

I would have to say this worked great. I held the button for about 8 seconds on a completely cold start and it fired right up on the first try with almost no studder.

Be careful not to overheat the plugs. Bad plugs can swell.

 

[franklin2]

I will speak out against moving the glow plugs ground to the ground for the relay and letting your pushbutton supply ground. You'll end up introducing a bunch of resistance and your pushbutton will arc and fail and you'll be pulling a bunch of amperage through the wrong wiring.

The glowplugs are high amperage, and the relay allows a low amp controller to drive a high amp work load. Keep it that way and dismiss any advice that tells you to change the ground configuration.

It's not a bad idea to have a bypass switch to run the glow plugs.



Be careful not to overheat the plugs. Bad plugs can swell.

You missed what we are doing. You are correct, the low amp controller does control the high amp relay. The controller does this through the white wire we are pulling off, and replacing with the pushbutton. So the pushbutton will be low amp just like the controller is, since the pushbutton is taking the place of the controller, they both hook to the same spot in the picture below.

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glow plug controller by D Franklin, on Flickr

 

[Sidewinded_idi]

So you can you tell me exactly what you have done, are you running your own 12v switched wire to the white wire location or simply doing a ground through the push button, I want to do this on. My truck as well

 

[Cubey]

So you can you tell me exactly what you have done, are you running your own 12v switched wire to the white wire location or simply doing a ground through the push button, I want to do this on. My truck as well

Ground through switch to the white wire thermal shown above. The white wire is wrapped in electrical tape and zip tied out of the way. Very easy to do or reverse if you want to go back to the factory setup.

I haven’t had any hard starts since I did this except times I didn’t run it quite long enough by a few seconds. Longest time has been 9 seconds, well below the 15 seconds max I’ve read is the limit you should run them at once. Typically I run them 3-5 seconds depending. Fully warmed, not at all.

 

[Sidewinded_idi]

So basically you run a wire from the white wire location, to your momentary switch, from the switch to a ground source correct?

 

[Cubey]

So basically you run a wire from the white wire location, to your momentary switch, from the switch to a ground source correct?

Correct.

 

[snicklas]

You can also leave the controller white wire connected and add a second wire to the post that runs to your switch to ground. This way the automatic function still works, but you can override the controller if it fails or you have a bad plug or three.....

This is the way I have mine hooked up because at times my controller doesn’t cycle the plugs..... in those cases, push the button, slow count to 7 or 8 and hit the key. If the controller works, just wait until the light goes off.....

 

[79jasper]

I think this was right.

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