Manual fuel tank selector valve questions

[LCAM-01XA]

What did you do to make gauge work? Extend wires back to can and add a separate switch, or do some splice work at the TSV connector and then rewire the connector for the factory switch in the dash?

Also how you gonna connect those lights to them manual valves? Good idea tho, definitely do it if it's not overly complicated.

 

[GRU]

I am in the middle of redoing my cummins swapped dually fuel system stem to stern. I researched heavily for a switch valve with 1/2 through the valve. Only thing i found was a Groco marine 6 port. So im using that and planning on using the factory valve to switch sending unit signals. Im using 5/8 aluminum supply and 1/2 return lines. The cummins has much greater fuel requirements. Its not running yet but hopefully in a week or two.

 

[warhog]

What did you do to make gauge work? Extend wires back to can and add a separate switch, or do some splice work at the TSV connector and then rewire the connector for the factory switch in the dash?

Also how you gonna connect those lights to them manual valves? Good idea tho, definitely do it if it's not overly complicated.

Chopped the connector off and extended the three wires that I needed (one for each tank, and one that originally went back to the fuel gauge). My truck magically had a spot marked out from the factory for a switch next to the headlight and wiper switches. I drilled out the marking and popped in a toggle. Gauge wire goes on the middle, and1 tank on each end.

The lights on the manual valves will be wired in series with contact switches. So when the valve contacts that spot where its' open for a certain tank, it connects the circuit that much further...then it contacts on the other, it'll complete it and light up the dash light. I'll draw a diagram when I do it. It's fairly simple. basically take a light, and on one side, go to one contact switch, which is connected to another contact switch, which goes to ground or 12v. Whichever you want to switch. I don't think it matters much, as long as the other side of the light is connectd to the opposite thing. Do that for two lights, and you'll have a separate light whenever you are both sending and returning to thefront tank, and a separate light whenever you are sending and returning to the rear.

blue - why not chuck the factory valve competely? You could just do what I did with the toggle to use the stock fuel gauge and not need the factory valve at all. Also, you'll need two valves. one for supply and one for return. Pictures, I promise are soon. My washer took a dump last night so that was fun...

 

[subway]

i would like to see pictures of this also, i have a few valves already. everyonce in a while my FSV will hang up and make me pucker up if the family is with me. i was already thinking of placing some micro switches around the valve stem so they would make contact with the tank that you are using. i also though about having a small sprocket and chain to link the feed and return valves so they work together no matter what. that way it is safe for the wifey to jump in and feel comfortable using it.

 

[warhog]

Ok so this is what i started with after getting it towed home. Fuel pouring out of the rear tank. A totally full tank was drained completely empty all over the highway.

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Called up an old friend and got a rental

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LOVE that car. Not as quick as my Mach 1 I sold last year, but very roomy, smooth, and comfortable. I might actually go buy one for a daily driver.

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Then it was time to get the parts, I have them listed in this thread somewhere. The beer and sour patch kids are optional. And using a $2,000 office desk is not prefferred, but if you happened to get it from free from your General manager and have no room in your current house for it, it will work perfect as a work table paired with an igloo cooler for a chair.

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Then the old valve. I can't say anything bad about it, it lasted 260,000 miles. But wasn't worth $327 at the dealer.

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And don't forget, there's still fuel in the lines, so close your mouth when you cut them. I expected a LOT less since the truck stalled out on me, but I was wrong.

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I was going to mount them next to the seat, but when I pulled back the carpet I found a rust hole starting and opted not to **** with that area. I'll cut it out and patch it but don't want any fresh holes in there. So I took the transmission hump out.

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Not the straightest, most even job, but I did things kind of backwords and I was drinking so i'm just happy I got them mounted

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There's plenty of room to work under there, and route the houses away from anything dangerous or moving.

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There's a spot next to the wiper switch marked off already from the factory. I drilled that out

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[warhog]

I only had black wire, so I spray painted one blue, one white, and left one black. So when I get back to the stock harness i'll know which I wired to which part of the switch and know to connect it to front tank rear tank or gauge.

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Then my exhaust parts finally came. I had true duals cut off behind the cab, it was nice but it was putting soot all over my axle and such. So i went with the stocker 2.5 in pipe from the cab back via a y collector into two random 2.5" pieces, then the stock tail pipe.

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And she runs! A few small leaks, nothing major. And I noticed one of my belts is awfully loose and I hear a faint whinning. Obv not related to the current work I did. But i'm trying to decide if it's just a loose belt or a worn out pulley on something.

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[GRU]

blue - why not chuck the factory valve competely? You could just do what I did with the toggle to use the stock fuel gauge and not need the factory valve at all. Also, you'll need two valves. one for supply and one for return. Pictures, I promise are soon. My washer took a dump last night so that was fun...[/QUOTE]

I am going to get rid of the factory gauge now that I know I can. A mechanic buddy suggested that too. The valve I used is a 6 port marine valve. Supply and returns in the same unit. It has 1/2 through for the supply and 3/8 for the return. I am definitely interested in a detailed description of hooking the sending unit wires up through the factory selector valve for the gauge.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

I am definitely interested in a detailed description of hooking the sending unit wires up through the factory selector valve for the gauge.

So you wanna use the factory switch for gauges only? Do you wanna extend wires from below cab up to it (kinda like Warhog did), or you'd rather use existing wiring that's already run? The latter will require minor wiring work on the gauge cluster harness...

 

[GRU]

So you wanna use the factory switch for gauges only? Do you wanna extend wires from below cab up to it (kinda like Warhog did), or you'd rather use existing wiring that's already run? The latter will require minor wiring work on the gauge cluster harness...

Do elaborate!! Honestly at this point I'd prefer to not take the gauge cluster out again.

 

[riotwarrior]

The valve I used is a 6 port marine valve. Supply and returns in the same unit. It has 1/2 through for the supply and 3/8 for the return.

THIS POST IS USELESS WITHOUT PICTURES!!!

And Links to said product! Must provide us MORE details please...

Al

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Riot, here:
http://www.discountmarinesupplies.com/Groco_FV65038_6_Port_Fuel_Valve.html

Do elaborate!! Honestly at this point I'd prefer to not take the gauge cluster out again.

I'll get back to you on that later tonight or early tomorrow.

 

[GRU]

Riot, here:
http://www.discountmarinesupplies.com/Groco_FV65038_6_Port_Fuel_Valve.html


I'll get back to you on that later tonight or early tomorrow.

Yup that's the one. Even the company I ordered it from! Total ***** to mount but oh well...