major engine trouble.

gatorman21218

Registered User
Joined
Sep 22, 2009
Posts
2,569
Reaction score
3
Location
Ashland VA
So a while back I found that I had a bad number 5 exhaust valve. I did a compression test and 7 holes had between 450 and 500 psi on them and the number 5 had 190 on it. the engine has 295K on it and ran great excecpt for the obvious valve. So I worked with Russ to order my parts and ended up doing:
16 new SS valves,
1 new valve guide and seat,
16 new springs and keepers (stiffer than stock),
new rockers and pushrods,
type4 cam with new fuel pump lobe
new lift pump from IH
All gaskets came from International except for the front cover which was V-R
Rebuilt oil cooler
Repaired Radiator
new return line kit

I reused the headbolts and also cleaned and reused the lifters.
The injectors and IP (baby moose) were new as of January 2011

So for the first few days after the rebuild the truck ran great. Seemed a little quiet as far as injection timing but still had plenty of power and started and ran fine. After a few days the truck became harder and harder to start. My first thought was the usual air intrusion. I messed with that for a few days without much luck and then started to suspect injection timing and or IP problems. I advance the timing on three separate occasions and at first it seemed to help with starting but then it would get worse. the last adjustment had the pump advance as far as it could go. All the gear marks were right too. I verified that it was getting 4 psi at the injection pump (the same pressure with the old pump) and also took a line off the number 6 injector and positioned it up so I could attach an old injector to that line. the old injector popped off when the engine was cranking.

At this point in time, It did not matter what the engine temp was or how long it had been shut off. There was always grey smoke at cranking.

The last time this truck ran was about a week ago when I was coming home from work, the truck stalled at a stop light and I could not get her refired, even with ether. The strange thing about the use of ether was with the air cleaner off, I could see major blow-by coming out of the cdr and also the mist of ether was not being sucked into the intake, rather it floated around it. And even after a lot of cranking and generous use of ether, it would not even attempt to fire.

Speaking of blow-by this engine used about 6 qts of oil in 600 miles. no signs of leaks or oil in coolant. In fact it leaks less now with a new front main seal. previously the truck used about 2 qts over 3000 miles, and blowby was almost zero.

After being towed home, I removed the valve covers and while cranking I could see white smoke coming out of the valves- particularly the intake valves. I took the rockers off and pumped 120psi into the glowplug hole and it seemed to hold that pressure in 7 cylinders, with the number 3 I could here slight gurgling out of the bottom end.

So my next theory was that the cam gear key was lost upon assembly or had sheered, causing the valve timing to be slightly off. this would also explain why my problem was gradual. I took the front cover off and removed the cam. The key was inplace and correct and the cam itself looked good.

I drained the oil at this point and it had a fuel like smell to it and there was also some metal shavings on the drain plug, as well as a grey sludge that looked like anti-seize that appeared to be magnetic, however it was so sticky its hard to tell.

After talking with Russ we determined that the only thing left was the lifters. I had previously disassembled, cleaned, and reused them, but with every other part being new they were suspect. So I installed all new lifters as well as the cam, pushrods and rockers. I did a compression test at this point and got the following numbers.

1- 310
2- 170
3- 300
4- 280
5- 260
6- 250
7- 280
8- 270

Are the rings smoked? Its hard for me to believe how well it was running before and now its dead.

Also I would like to thank Gary, Russ and JD. Ive been bugging the hell out of those guys and they have been so helpful to troubleshoot and to keep what little sanity I have left.



So. What do I do now? And for the love of God do not mention the C-word.

heres the original post http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?55761-Valve-job&highlight= with the original compression numbers

1 - 450
2 - 490
3 - 500
4 - 490
5 - 190
6 - 450
7 - 500
8 - 450
 
Last edited:

Hydro-idi

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 8, 2011
Posts
2,273
Reaction score
360
Location
Lodi, California
Its hard to believe that a fresh top end would wipe out the piston rings that quick. I know a valve job will increase compression quite a bit but something isn't adding up especially if you said you have metal shavings in the oil. Sounds like something else went terribly wrong in there. I am not sure what could have caused that. I guess next step would be to tear the entire engine down if nobody else can pinpoint your situation.
 

Iowa 73

FNM
Joined
Mar 3, 2012
Posts
419
Reaction score
0
Location
IA
Who did the machine work on your heads? Are the valves seating properly in #2? Have you changed your starter recently? That is one part of the equation that you did not mention.
 

chvycmnslvr68

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 23, 2012
Posts
209
Reaction score
0
Location
Ponca City OK
I would run through the fireing order one cylinder at a time and check your valve lash ... I your valves aren't quite seating due to lack of lash this could cause your low compression problem ... does this engine have hyd. lifters or solid ... the other thing to check is your injector seat ... if your injector holes weren't cleaned well enough you could be leaking compression through them and that may also explain the fuel in the oil .. l
 

'94IDITurbo7.3

HAMMER DOWN!
Joined
Mar 29, 2011
Posts
5,353
Reaction score
3
Location
Fowlerville Michigan
do a cylinder leak down test to pin point what part of the engine is loosing comp. it will tell you if it is the rings or some part of the valve train.
 

gatorman21218

Registered User
Joined
Sep 22, 2009
Posts
2,569
Reaction score
3
Location
Ashland VA
Who did the machine work on your heads? Are the valves seating properly in #2? Have you changed your starter recently? That is one part of the equation that you did not mention.

the machine shop is Laurel Automotive in Richmond VA. they do all the machine work for the local Case-IH dealer.

The starter is from db electrical and is about 18 months old. Yes it could bee slowing down, but it would not explain the oil consumption and smoke when running. the batteries also tested good at autozone for whats its worth
 

gatorman21218

Registered User
Joined
Sep 22, 2009
Posts
2,569
Reaction score
3
Location
Ashland VA
I would run through the fireing order one cylinder at a time and check your valve lash ... I your valves aren't quite seating due to lack of lash this could cause your low compression problem ... does this engine have hyd. lifters or solid ... the other thing to check is your injector seat ... if your injector holes weren't cleaned well enough you could be leaking compression through them and that may also explain the fuel in the oil .. l

how do I check the valve lash? Its probably in the manual but thats out in the truck. the lifters are hydraulic needle/roller bearing. They are the same for the GM 5.7,6.2,6.5 and the Ford/IH 6.9,7.3IDI,7.3DIT

I cleaned the seat and installed new crush washers when I installed the injectors. I highly doubt thats the problem and again would not explain the blowby
 

gatorman21218

Registered User
Joined
Sep 22, 2009
Posts
2,569
Reaction score
3
Location
Ashland VA
I did a simple leakdown test as before mentioned and could not hear any air leaking on 7 cylinders. the number 3 sounded like it was coming out the bottom end. however that cylinder had the second highest compression reading.

However the air source available is only about 140 psi max, which is a far cry from the compression numbers. I mean if the rings are bad will/can they still hold 120 psi of air? Is there a better way to do a leakdown test?
 

gatorman21218

Registered User
Joined
Sep 22, 2009
Posts
2,569
Reaction score
3
Location
Ashland VA
ok so do you hook it up to shop air and listen or do you put a gauge on it with a valve to see how long it takes to leak down. if so how long should it hold pressure?
 

'94IDITurbo7.3

HAMMER DOWN!
Joined
Mar 29, 2011
Posts
5,353
Reaction score
3
Location
Fowlerville Michigan
This is the exact tester we have at school. the black gauge shows what you have the incoming shop air regulated to. we reg it to ~100 psi. the oragne gauge shows % leakage.

IIRC the way we set it up is connect shop air, leave the adapter that screws into the spark plug/glow plug hole off, that way when the shop air is connected the orange gauge will show 0% leakage. i think my teacher said that you want to get the shop air regulated threw the gauge cluster as high as you can while still maintaining 0% leakage. then once you are at TDC compression you connect the the adapter to the gauge cluster and see what the orange gauge reads.

i am sorry if that is hard to follow as it is a little foggy for me. i will ask my teacher to clarify tomorrow.
 

dyoung14

Is getting worn out
Joined
Jan 2, 2009
Posts
6,128
Reaction score
3
Location
spencer,tn
So this is an update since the last time we talked on the phone? this really sucks bad man, i really hate to hear this, have you tryed a leak down since you put the valve train back together?
 

Dave Barbieri

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 18, 2007
Posts
332
Reaction score
1
Location
Overton, TX
Your leak down tester will use shop air and has an adjustment valve so that you can regulate the airflow into the cylinder. There are two pressure gauges on the tester. The first one measures the air coming into the tester; the second one shows how much pressure the cylinder is holding. To determine how well the cylinder is sealing, you compare the two readings. Typically, 20% leakage is where you start to get worried. You gotta be sure that both valves are closed. To be sure that this happens, most folks put the piston at TDC on the compression stroke. This is where that adjusting valve comes in handy. You need at least 15 psi to run the test. The lower the pressure you use, the less chance of having the pressure move the piston BDC. Not only does it void out the test, but it also creates a high pucker factor.

In addition to determining the percentage of actual leakage, the test also helps you figure out where it's coming from. With the cylinder pressurized, you listen for leaks. If you hear the hiss coming from the exhaust pipe, it's a leaking exhaust valve; from the air cleaner, a leaking intake valve; from the oil filler tube, it's either rings or a damaged piston.
 
Top