loss of oil pressure

[icanfixall]

Its hard to say if you driving 100 miles with low oil pressure has harmed the rods and mains. My feelings is no. If the lifters were clattering loudly then yes. I think you may have harmed the mains and rod bearings. No matter what.. The mag on the drain plug will show the metal if any damage has been done. Now finding the reason for the drop in pressure is a tuff job. Might be the rear oil cooler header oil pressure regulator valve. They have been known to stick from metal or rust in them.

 

[riotwarrior]

I lost oil pressure at idle this past week while on vacation. Was pulling my 5th wheel camper down the freeway and when I stopped at the end of the exit ramp the idiot gauge bottomed out low, mechanical gauge confirmed zero when I got out and checked (it's mounted under the hood cause I didn't feel like trying to route the tube inside). I have about 700 miles since my rebuild and had to drive around 100 miles with low pressure to get the truck and 5th wheel back home. I get some pressure above idle, at least 7psi at the turbo. Engine sounds ok, no knocks or ticks, and I kept it above idle at red lights... Anyways, my question is do you think that 100 miles of towing with low pressure would be enough to trash my bearings?

Sounds like the bypass in the oil filter head of the oil cooler has stuck open, do a search and find the info on popping it into place.

Just my take on what you have going on.

 

[dunk]

Speaking of oil pressure.... How do these engines oil, as in what is the flow path? Anyone have a diagram of the flow and oil galleries?

I know I've read here that the oil pumps are more than adequate and OE pumps tend to be better than aftermarket pumps. No upgraded oil pumps available. Are there any oil system upgrades or improvements to be done? Enlarging or chamferring any areas? I don't imagine at the relatively low RPM these turn any top end restriction would be required. Any drainback improvements additional holes, radiusing any drains, etc.? Maybe a moot point given the large oil capacity. Basically things that should be done if rebuilding to optimize oiling. All I've read is with a turbo punch holes in the valley where they typically drain, to mimick the factory turbo engine valley pans.

 

[icanfixall]

No need to punch holes in the valley pans these days. All valley pans now are the turbo type. Its cheaper to upgrade then it is to carry twice the shelf inventory so turbo is all we get. It wont harm a thing on a non turbo engine. The oil cooler bundle now is turbo only too. thats a good thing no matter what. It has more plates per inch for better cooling.

 

[Moosebob]

Sounds like the bypass in the oil filter head of the oil cooler has stuck open, do a search and find the info on popping it into place.

Just my take on what you have going on.

The bypass routes oil around the filter in the event the filter can't handle the volume coming through it. The pressure relief valve is what dumps the oil back to the pan rather than through the engine. The pressure relief will be the first thing I check when I get out to the garage. Flu has me knocked on my ass right now.

 

[riotwarrior]

The bypass routes oil around the filter in the event the filter can't handle the volume coming through it. The pressure relief valve is what dumps the oil back to the pan rather than through the engine. The pressure relief will be the first thing I check when I get out to the garage. Flu has me knocked on my ass right now.

my bad I meant pressure regulator sorry....filter bypass is in the filter...but still my bad,

 

[Moosebob]

Pressure regulator wasn't stuck open It looked closed and I couldn't catch an edge with a pick. Getting 7psi on a cold start from the turbo, and the turbo feels fine. At this point I'm guessing I lost some bearings.

 

[icanfixall]

If you lost a bearing it will be in the filter and on the drain plug.

 

[Moosebob]

If you lost a bearing it will be in the filter and on the drain plug.

Didn't see any bearings coming out with the oil, it was smooth and black. I cleaned out the drain pan so whatever I find came from the engine this round. I don't think my inspection camera is going to fit in there with the tube so close to the pan. Any way to check if the pickup screen is clogged?

Has anyone come up with a way to test the pressure at which the relief valve opens?

 

[79jasper]

It wouldn't be like a ball bearing. Main, rod, and cam bearings are more like a bushing bearing.
So all you would find in the oil is flakes.


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[drinkypoo]

Speaking of oil pressure.... How do these engines oil, as in what is the flow path? Anyone have a diagram of the flow and oil galleries?

http://diezelcrazeesidipage.homestead.com/oilregulatingvalve1.html

 

[icanfixall]

Now thats a worthy writeup on the oil pressure regulator and header. I hope thats in the stickys somewhere. Thanks for doing such a great job with terrific pics too...

 

[Moosebob]

So it seems my engine is fine. I moved the gauge from the turbo to an oil plug infront of the rear oil cooler header. Started it up and got 47psi. At hot idle I get about 11psi from the block but at the turbo it's about 6psi. Is that enough oil for the turbo?

 

[icanfixall]

No.. Thats kind of low at the turbo. What line do you have feeding the turbo. Sounds like it may be plugged with something.

 

[mariner45]

Is your oil line metal (copper) or is it rubber type? Maybe the hose itself is starting to deteriorate inside ? Something is happening and it certainly needs attention.
For my oil pressure gauge I tee'd off the outlet where the original sending unit fits at the rear of the passenger side head. One side of the tee went to the relocated (on fire wall) sending unit. The other side of the tee I ran a copper line (1/16" I think) back into the cab and installed a mechanical gauge. I barely pay any attention to the original Ford gauge and rely on my mechanical gauge these days.