loss of oil pressure

onebadiditurbo

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My 94 f350 with 7.3l Vin k has 205k miles. Problem happened last weekend drove about 100 miles to go riding atvs so was pulling flatbed 4 wheelers ice chest couple cases of beer and 3 other people. No problems getting there leaving on the other hand bout 10 miles into it i noticed the oil pressure dropped from between the r and the m to the n and the o. I pulled over at a store thinking oil was low checked it and it was fine. Drove it home anyway changed the oil and filter fired up had good oil pressure let it get to temp. Drove off and as soon as I got higher rpm pressure would drop. But will fluctuate up and down a lil. Going to replace sending unit anything else I should look at.
 

ToughOldFord

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Sending unit's a good place to start, they've always been a fail part on Ford trucks since the '60s. And not to knock Ford, it's just that their trucks used to last so damn long.

To check the function of the gauge when you pull the wire on the sending unit you can ground it to the block and turn the ignition on (key on, engine off), and the gauge should peg or close to it.
 

chris142

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The stock guage is a dummy guage anyway. I have noticed that mine goes from the "r" in Normal which is as high as it ever goes to the "o" just by turning the lights on!
 

TWeatherford

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Definitely look at the sending unit. The connection was loose on mine and it did exactly as you describe.

And yes, definitely get a real gauge as well.
 

icanfixall

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Usually the wire connector loosens up and the gauge flucuates like what you posted. Really not a problem because the factory dash gauge is only teling you there is 7 lbs of oil pressure and that can mean the pointer is anyplace on the gauge. They are really not worth watching either. I run a bank of Isspro EV electric gauges. I have run a mechanical gauge too and can watch the factory gauge move up and down when the aftermarket gauges are steady with great oil pressure. Best idea is to install a coolant temp gauge and an oil pressure gauge. Mechanical or electric is your choice. Mel at Conestoga diesel in Pa sells the Isspro line.
 

ToughOldFord

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The stock guage is a dummy guage anyway. I have noticed that mine goes from the "r" in Normal which is as high as it ever goes to the "o" just by turning the lights on!

Oh, that's right, with the dummy gauge it won't peg even with the grounding of the wire test. Were they still using the dummy gauge in 94? I've been trying to narrow the years down on these, 87 was the first year, but I don't know how long Ford kept up this foolishness.
 

The FNG

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I had the same issue. I tee'd off the turbo oil feed line where the oil pressure sender is and installed a mechanical gauge. Make sure you use copper line if you go that route. Super easy install too.
 

riotwarrior

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GET a REAL GAUGE

then keep an eye on it...R N O A L M don't mean much it's just a fake gauge really!

JM2CW

Al
 

79jasper

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At least up to 2003. Dumbest crap I've ever seen.
Well not quite, but on the top 200. Lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

riotwarrior

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We were discussing this not too long ago @ FTE, you can change that dummy gauge to a real gauge by replacing the oil pressure switch with a sending unit and bypassing a resistor on the back of the cluster that made the gauge work with the switch:

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1289712-88-7-3-idi-wierd-electrical-problems-2.html#post13986698

I will reiterate...

O R M N A L does nothing to indicate a true 15 PSI, 2 PSI, 40 PSI even if it's been modified to have a sweep like a normal gauge it does nothing to indicate actual oil pressure...

Bottom line is get a real gauge if you can to see what you ACTUALLY have!
 

ToughOldFord

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I will reiterate...

O R M N A L does nothing to indicate a true 15 PSI, 2 PSI, 40 PSI even if it's been modified to have a sweep like a normal gauge it does nothing to indicate actual oil pressure...

Bottom line is get a real gauge if you can to see what you ACTUALLY have!

Well, that's kind of obvious, if Ford meant there to be a numerical reading they would have put numbers on the gauge. But the fact is that the numbers mean something to you and I and probably most here in this forum, the average Jane & John Doe do not have a clue if 2lbs or 80lbs of oil pressure is good or not. The numbers would just confuse them. So the idea was to make a gauge that would sweep in a normal operating range that everyone can understand. (Except for the dummy gauge, that's just....dumb.)
 

Moosebob

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I lost oil pressure at idle this past week while on vacation. Was pulling my 5th wheel camper down the freeway and when I stopped at the end of the exit ramp the idiot gauge bottomed out low, mechanical gauge confirmed zero when I got out and checked (it's mounted under the hood cause I didn't feel like trying to route the tube inside). I have about 700 miles since my rebuild and had to drive around 100 miles with low pressure to get the truck and 5th wheel back home. I get some pressure above idle, at least 7psi at the turbo. Engine sounds ok, no knocks or ticks, and I kept it above idle at red lights... Anyways, my question is do you think that 100 miles of towing with low pressure would be enough to trash my bearings?
 

dunk

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I have always been under the impression 80-86 has real "gauges" with proper sending units but not calibrated to the gauge face hence no numbers, while '87 and up has on/off switches which display on gauges. In this regard the oil pressure on the 4 80-86 trucks I've owned always correlated with actual engine conditions and mechanical gauge on the trucks I've had a proper gauge on. i.e. cold idle gauge reads higher, hot idle lower, 2000-3000 RPM it reads much higher than at idle all the while corresponding psi on the proper gauge would be about 70, 25, 50 on a tight engine with HV pump or less on a worn factory engine. Range of motion generally NO hot idle, RM at higher RPM. Yes the gauge is a bit slow to respond, but certainly a lot more useful than an on/off switch at whatever psi.

Similarly the temp gauge you can watch as the engine warms up and the readings at a given temp on the factory gauge always match the aftermarket gauge. With the IDI it always comes off cold advance/high idle at the same spot on the gauge. Operating temp is always in the same area. I will say with the Ford sender on teh IDI operating temp 180-190 was I believe around R which is where the 3 other 80-86 trucks I've owned have always been at 180-190. That sender failed and after replacing with aftermarket 180-190 is around AL, kind of freaked me out at first because I only ever seen these trucks around OR range at normal temp.

Regardless, a functional gauge that gives relative readings is a lot more useful than an on/off switch regardless of if it's hooked to a light or a gauge. I can't speak for '87 and up Fords as I've never owned anything newer than 86. If OP... Blah nevermind, I saw 85 and 84 in the OP's sig and thought that's what he was talking about. If it was an earlier truck I'd say it indicated a problem, on a '94 probably not but throw a mechanical gauge on it either way to be sure. Even the early gauges can read low if you have a loose/dirty connection or any low voltage condition.
 

chris142

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my 87's gauge does move. but its still a dummy gauge i think. it sits on the left line at a hot idle. rev it up and it moves towards the r in normal. but if you turn the lights on it drops 1\8 inch lol
 

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