Leveling my 86

[D_Fresh361]

Would these work on helping get rid of the rake on my 2wd 6.9. I finally got the wheels and tires I wanted and the front end is sitting a little too low for my liking. The added clearance would be nice as well.

Please recommend what you've used to lift the front of your 2wd 6.9.

Thanks

http://www.lmctruck.com/features/fd/FDAL.htm

 

[Thewespaul]

Haven’t seen you around here in awhile, welcome back!

I haven’t had any luck with extra height springs on the 2wd trucks but stock replacement springs can add a inch or so over saggy stock springs

 

[D_Fresh361]

Haven’t seen you around here in awhile, welcome back!

I haven’t had any luck with extra height springs on the 2wd trucks but stock replacement springs can add a inch or so over saggy stock springs

Yeah, y'all haven't gotten rid of me just yet!

All projects came to a halt for awhile. All work work no play play. Lol

I haven't had any luck through my interweb endeavors either. I was hoping I wouldn't have to buy an actual suspension lift to achieve the desired

 

[Thewespaul]

I’d try replacing the springs and see if that gets it to where you like it

 

[D_Fresh361]

I’d try replacing the springs and see if that gets it to where you like it

That'll be my approach then. I have no idea when the shocks were changed last either.

 

[Hydro-idi]

New springs will really help. Make sure that if you do replace them, go with the heavy duty spring type.
Here’s another helpful article:

http://www.trucktrend.com/how-to/engine/0910dp-1987-ford-f250-buildup/

 

[franklin2]

I am not sure what type of frontend your 2wd truck has, but if it's a twin I beam, altering the ride height affects the alignment and can cause more tire wear. If you raise it too high the alignment guy will not be able to get it back in.

It's a common problem with the TTB 4x4 trucks also. That is why they need drop brackets to go with any type of lift. The guys that like to lower their trucks run into the same problem, the reason they make those dropped beam axles. If you raise it over 1.5 inches I think you are going to run into problems.

 

[no mufflers]

i would try the springs first. you could put like an 1'' block on the bottom of the spring but any more and you will never be able to properly align it.

you could do what i did for a 2'' lift but its a lot of work.

 

[Knuckledragger]

If you are sure the springs are original, a replacement will probably put you where you want to be. Remember that these old F250s had way strong rear springs, so they tend to be ass high unless loaded. Mine rides pretty nice with a half ton of crap in back, not so smooth empty. Mine once had 7K (a machine base) in the bed. It groaned some, rode on the snubbers, but made the trip to the scrapper.

As a cheap test, put a scoop of sand or gravel in the bed and see how you like the way the truck looks. If it is level at all corners, you might not need to jack up the front, even if you don't like the look unloaded.

 

[D_Fresh361]

New springs will really help. Make sure that if you do replace them, go with the heavy duty spring type.
Here’s another helpful article:

http://www.trucktrend.com/how-to/engine/0910dp-1987-ford-f250-buildup/

http://www.sdtrucksprings.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=10178

These are what I'm eyeing for the replacement. I haven't decided on shock absorbers yet. I will be replacing them all the way around during the coil spring swap.

There is a 5000lbs. spring also. The one in the link is rated for 3935lbs. Which should I go with?

 

[D_Fresh361]

i would try the springs first. you could put like an 1'' block on the bottom of the spring but any more and you will never be able to properly align it.

you could do what i did for a 2'' lift but its a lot of work.

Springs it is. I've decided that after the work is done if I'm not close to being satisfied;I will be going with an actual suspension lift then. Pricey. But if it keeps me from eating tires on the regular from the alignment I say it's worth it. $808 plus another $107 for pitman arm.

 

[D_Fresh361]

I am not sure what type of frontend your 2wd truck has, but if it's a twin I beam, altering the ride height affects the alignment and can cause more tire wear. If you raise it too high the alignment guy will not be able to get it back in.

It's a common problem with the TTB 4x4 trucks also. That is why they need drop brackets to go with any type of lift. The guys that like to lower their trucks run into the same problem, the reason they make those dropped beam axles. If you raise it over 1.5 inches I think you are going to run into problems.

I honestly think I will be able to achieve the desired with 1.5" being my max until running into problems. At least I hope


This is the last resort..

http://www.rockymountainsusp.com/li...wd/f250-f350/1980-96/184f2k-sk.html?c=308&i=0

 

[D_Fresh361]

If you are sure the springs are original, a replacement will probably put you where you want to be. Remember that these old F250s had way strong rear springs, so they tend to be ass high unless loaded. Mine rides pretty nice with a half ton of crap in back, not so smooth empty. Mine once had 7K (a machine base) in the bed. It groaned some, rode on the snubbers, but made the trip to the scrapper.

As a cheap test, put a scoop of sand or gravel in the bed and see how you like the way the truck looks. If it is level at all corners, you might not need to jack up the front, even if you don't like the look unloaded.

I'd say they're the original coils. I know those Gabriel brand shocks aren't. I think I remember selling a few of those when I worked at NAPA in HS. Lol

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[franklin2]

If you are sure the springs are original, a replacement will probably put you where you want to be. Remember that these old F250s had way strong rear springs, so they tend to be ass high unless loaded. Mine rides pretty nice with a half ton of crap in back, not so smooth empty. Mine once had 7K (a machine base) in the bed. It groaned some, rode on the snubbers, but made the trip to the scrapper.

As a cheap test, put a scoop of sand or gravel in the bed and see how you like the way the truck looks. If it is level at all corners, you might not need to jack up the front, even if you don't like the look unloaded.

These trucks are higher in the rear for a reason. If you look at the rear springs on most factory original trucks, you will have lighter thinner curved leaves on the top, and a very thick flatter leaf on the bottom. The thinner leaves give you a better ride, but when you load it they sag down till they hit the thick flat spring on the bottom, which carries the load.

People with mall cruisers get away with front leveling kits since they never haul heavy loads. People who put leveling kits on their trucks and then haul loads notice their trucks are nose high when loaded. Then they decide to put heavier springs in the rear and ruin what little ride comfort they had with the stock progressive rear springs.

 

[david85]

As mentioned, you have a twin I-Beam setup. And not a balljoint style either; 1986 uses a fixed camber setting that is forged into the shape of the beam and the position of the kingpin. If your height is above stock, the outer corners of the tires get eaten. Too low, and the inner corners get it. Later Balljoint setups may have an option for a camber adjust but I'm not 100% sure on that. The only way to change the ride height without destroying the alignment is to use drop beams (lowering kit) or drop brackets (lift kit). Then you can look at different height springs.

It would almost be easier to replace the rear leaf stack and lower the rear.