leaking injectors?

[gunnie]

i have a hard start first thing in the morning, usually 2 cycles of the glow plugs and several cranks before it will fire up, when it does it revs up without me ever touching the go pedal. have 142,000 on the original injectors and lines. the pump was replaced at about 70,000. if the general feeling is bad injectors what all else needs to be replaced. i've had this engine since it was new so i am sure of the service records on it, performance is ok not super but satisfactory. what do you guys think?

 

[The Warden]

I would suggest having the injectors pop-tested, and if more than one or two fail, replace them all. Any diesel shop should have a pop-tester, and some will even test them for free. These injectors certainly do have a finite lifespan, and yours are certainly up there in age, but no sense replacing them unnecessarily (unless you want to upgrade to Stage 1's )

If you pull the injectors, you'll want to get an "injector installation kit" (contains new return line O-rings, T-fittings, connector hoses, and copper washers) even if you re-install the old ones. If you try to reuse the old O-rings, etc, you're asking for an air leak. Otherwise, I think you're good to go...unless you break something, the metal lines are good to go...

 

[icanfixall]

If you replace the injectors don't bend the hard lines much at all. They are not the kind of line you want to bend. The vibration of the injection upmp pushing fuel thru them has cracked many a bent lines. Also replace the vibration dampners on all the lines if you take them off. I didn't and it cost me almost $400.00 at Ford many years ago. Before I found this site.... Or the other site.... Torque is 35 lbs and is very important because the injectors are something you don't want crushed or leaking combustion into the injector bores.

 

[The Warden]

Oh yeah, and make sure that you have all 8 of the old copper washers at the bottom of each injector (one washer per injector). Double-stacking washers is a major no-no!

 

[Diesel JD]

What you describe actually sounds more like an air intrusion problem or the fuel system losing its prime. Are any of your injector leak off teest wet or do you ahve any other visible fuel leaks or diesel smell? Also, how are your glow plugs doing? Do they cycle 7-10 seconds or longer before the light goes off? They are needed to start a cold IDI and help give you a better complete fuel burn at cold idle. Good luck fixing it,
J.D.

 

[gunnie]

replaced the glowplugs with beru a couple months ago, they seem to be cycling correctly according to my volt gauge a wts light. the thing that makes me think its injector nozzles dripping is that it revs up at first start in the morning without touching the go pedal, if i give the pedal a quick push it is even more difficult to get to fire up. if i change injectors would stage 1 injectors do much to liven up a n/a or should i just stick to stock?
thanks

 

[Diesel JD]

I won't say what stage 1s will do to a N/A, but the surging with no go pedal sounds liek air. Press the schrader valve tomorrow morning before you do anything else and see what springs forth. there should be fuel immediately. And pure fuel, without a lot of air bubbles. If there isn't, you have a leak, and you have to find it; it could take awhile, so just be patient,
J.D.

 

[Agnem]

I would also state that hard starts are not usually mechanical issues, but rather air or glow plug issues. However, that said, with that kind of milage on your injectors, I'd say buy yourself an early Christmas present and get a set, and if you can afford it, replace the IP too. Yea, I know the other one only has 70K on it, but a new fuel system and proper timing returns the pep that you've unknowingly lost 100%. It's really about the absolute best thing you can do for your truck in terms of returning performance, fuel economy, and reliability, and for around $600 total, it is money well spent. A better investment than a set of tires that will wear out faster.

 

[gunnie]

not to be argumentive in any way cause i'm here asking for opinions, what are the symptoms of a leaking injector nozzle. the reving up with black smoke (which i forgot to mention) really has me puzzled. would air be a cause of this?
gunnie

 

[Agnem]

Yes. Air alters the timing, and can cause your reving problem. The fact that it likes it even less when you throttle it indicates a fuel starvation problem. Your squirting all the available fuel in before it starts leaving little or nothing for it to catch on.

 

[gunnie]

update:
the truck hasn't been started in 24 hrs, checked the schraider valve and nuttin, no fuel at all. hit the electric fuel pump and has a good flow, so i guess i'm back to looking for a air leak, give me the most methodical way to go about this i've already checked the obvious
thks gunnie

 

[Diesel JD]

That means its a small and subtle leak, if it was real bad, it would take awhile for it to prime up even after the e-pump was on. But at least you know its not something bad. Check all your fittings and return lines/ts, etc. It can be hard to find, but that one loose fitting or leaky injector cap can let in just enough air to be a PITA. Good luck finding it,
J.D.

 

[93_E_350]

You can probably have the injectors pop tested for free. While you have the injectors out replace the return lines from the filter all the way through the injectors (get the complete kit with copper washers only about $30). After that I would look at the IP timing, black smoke on a NA engine sounds to be adavanced however as da boob guys pointed out it might be caused by air getting into the system.

 

[SKimballC]

AS mentioned above, make sure you replace your return lines and caps. Why? I did my injectors this morning, and I didn't get a return line kit. I had most of a new kit from a while back that has smaller nipples on the caps than the ones in the truck, and it caused some major grief not having the whole kit. The old lines pretty much fell apart when moved, and its a ton easier to just replace the whole thing.

 

[gunnie]

i don't recall how the lines are routed to the fuel tank, but should this also be replaced and what diamater line? also is regular fuel (gas) line ok to use after the injector return line kit?
thanks, gunnie