IP to Injector fuel line

[Pull-n-TugTx]

Oh yea…. Those clamps!!! I think I still have mine. I did not put them back on the after I did something back in the fall.

If you take it off, put it back on!!!

I will look in the "catch all" drawer of the tool box, I know i have seen them in there before.

 

[icanfixall]

Oh yea…. Those clamps!!! I think I still have mine. I did not put them back on the after I did something back in the fall.

If you take it off, put it back on!!!

I will look in the "catch all" drawer of the tool box, I know i have seen them in there before.

We know one garentee. Thats if you leave off the line clamps you will break a line no matter what. I learned this the expensive way. I paid nearly $400.00 at a Ford dealer to replace number 2 cylinder. They screwed be but good on that one. I was a newbie way back then.

 

[Pull-n-TugTx]

Big Thanks to FarmerFrank!! Got the fuel line yesterday, put it on and THE CLAMPS!! Back up and running!!

Thanks again guys!

 

[FarmerFrank]

Glad to hear. I hate hearing about a truck down from such a small part.

 

[icanfixall]

And this post is again proof that leaving off the line clamps will cause you nothing but trouble with broken lines.

 

[Pull-n-TugTx]

The line wasn't bent the exact same. But it went on with out any flexing and the I was able to get the clamp back on in the correct spot.

The other side the lines are spaced a little to far apart, but I was able to loosen the lines and get the clamp on, in the same spot.

Now I need to get the Carrier pump put on! Been looking at in the box for to long. Need to do some fab work so that I can t mont it under the hood.

Did ya'll do the frame mount or under the hood?

 

[icanfixall]

Some lines are bent just a little bit different from others of the same cylinder. We can "adjust' them to fit correctly. Nothing nicer than lines that fit and can be hand tightened so they don't cross thread.

 

[OLDBULL8]

Info: The injector hard line ends are NOT a Flare, the ends are machine formed out of the steel line itself, that's why they are subject to cracking at that point if they are not clamped for vibration at 2000 times (RPM) a minute.

 

[icanfixall]

The above posting is correct. The line I broke 15 years ago was ground and die checked for a joint. None found. At work we had a great crack check penetrant. I was very good using it in the shop or out in the field. You spray on a cleaner and dry it off. then spray on the deep red penetrant. Let it sit for 30 minutes. Wipe it off with cleaner on a frag or a wet rag. Then spray on the developer. It dried white as snow quickly and sucks out the penetrant showing the cracks. Amazing stuff.