Intermittent crank + start switch Again? + push button

[rreegg]

Had some intermittent no-cranks last week and realized the starter switch nuts were a bit loose. Tightened em up and all was good.

Was hauling chit around today and it was warm, engine temp around 200* and had to shut off the engine a few times for various things. Started getting the same intermittent no-crank again.
The starter switch nuts seem to still be tight.

Just hopped into the truck again, truck is cold and has been sitting for 8 hours, to test out the ignition and there don’t seem to be any problems cranking now.

Any y’all know of heat or engine temp having an impact on starter switch behavior?

Regardless I’d like to install a push button start to just bypass the key at this point. Know a lot y’all have done it. Am not finding any good threads on how to do so though, this one linked below has some good info but I still have questions.

Push button start help

How can I get wire through the firewall easiest way? What is simplest way to wire it? Also truck shudders real bad sometimes like it is choking out? I'm wandering from some of Mel's comments if it is leaky injectors... any thoughts?

www.oilburners.net

Is it possible to keep the keyed ignition stock while also adding the push button?

It seems using a two-pole On/Off switch is what’s suggested but am unsure on wiring specifics. Any fuses recommended?

Am sure it’s spelled out in other threads so if anyone can point me in the right direction it’s appreciated.

88 brick nose zf5, clutch interlock is already deleted

 

[Brian VT]

I added a starter button under the dash. I just ran new wire from the button to the starter solenoid. I turn the key to the run position and then hit the button (after running the glow plugs).
This is the button I used. I'm on my second one. The original started working intermittently after a couple months.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/dorman-conduct-tite/dorman-conduct-tite-8-amp-push-button-switch/cti0/84822?q=push+button&pos=0

 

[jwsfarrier]

Glad you brought this up. I have been dealing with similar issues. Thought initially was the stupid actuator in the column. That checked out fine. Definitely gets worse if I have to shut it off and start it up when Im out running errands and such. I like the idea of the push button start.

 

[Brian VT]

I bought a new switch for in the column. It was kind of a pain to replace. And it didn't work. I tried to diagnose the other parts of the system but got nowhere. So I gave up and went with the button.

Test for ignition switch and/or neutral safety switch?

I guess this is my next step. Looks a lot easier to work on than the tilt wheel version. :) Motorcraft Ignition Switch SW-2472 (none in stock near here so I'll be buying an aftermarket one).

www.oilburners.net

 

[jwsfarrier]

Same here. I have bypassed the neutral safety switch as well so thats out of the picture. Button is making a strong case.

 

[jwsfarrier]

One interesting note : during one of these no start episodes I had the key in 'run' position figuring I would just jump the terminals on the solenoid with a screw driver . You could hear it click but would not fire the starter. Similar to trying to start with the key. What does this mean? Is it a heat related thing as noted earlier?

 

[Brian VT]

That's what my button does. It just jumps the solenoid. If the screwdriver trick doesn't work then I don't think a button will.

 

[gandalf]

I'm a bit unclear on the situation here, exactly what is happening. Its a question of terms sometimes being misused. Lets define "no crank" as the engine doesn't turn over, maybe a little clicking, but no rotation. The other term is "no fire", in which the engine turns over, rotates, but does not fire. Which of these situations are we looking at here?

 

[rreegg]

I'm a bit unclear on the situation here, exactly what is happening. Its a question of terms sometimes being misused. Lets define "no crank" as the engine doesn't turn over, maybe a little clicking, but no rotation. The other term is "no fire", in which the engine turns over, rotates, but does not fire. Which of these situations are we looking at here?

Sure, in my case the truck usually operates as expected: turn the key to “start” and the engine will crank and fire up. Getting intermittent times where I’ll turn to “start” and hear a click and the engine won’t crank at all

 

[jwsfarrier]

those are the same symptoms Im having as well

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Is it possible to keep the keyed ignition stock while also adding the push button?

Sure it is. That's easy. Just turn the key to the "on" position and no farther.

If the screwdriver trick doesn't work then I don't think a button will.

I agree.

 

[rreegg]

Yeah there is definitely something funky going on when doing a warm/hot restart that’s the only time it will intermittent fail to crank, it’s fine for a cold start. Isn’t that some sort of IP failure mode?

Okay so I guess the push button start is just a jumper between the two poles on the starter solenoid, pretty simple then just didn’t have a good mental image. There are a bunch of different ways people have rigged them up on here - like some folks have wired a switch into the ignition switch and all that.

Vice grip garage calls it the “Lone wolf 3000” starter lol seems about right

 

[Rdnck84_03]

If you hear a click when you try to start it then the switch is sending a signal to the solenoid.

You need to test and see if the solenoid is sending power to the starter.

If no replace the solenoid.
If yes check the cable connection at the starter, it is quite common for them to work loose.

If all of that looks good, check for voltage at the starter. Also if you have the style of starter that uses the round starter mounted solenoid, make sure the connection is good on the wire going into the starter. Usually about 75% of the starters that I think are going out end up being that wire has come loose and is arc burned.

Also make sure the starter is tightly mounted, it grounds through the mounting surface.

James

 

[Ohiogoldfever]

If you hear a click when you try to start it then the switch is sending a signal to the solenoid.

You need to test and see if the solenoid is sending power to the starter.

If no replace the solenoid.
If yes check the cable connection at the starter, it is quite common for them to work loose.

If all of that looks good, check for voltage at the starter. Also if you have the style of starter that uses the round starter mounted solenoid, make sure the connection is good on the wire going into the starter. Usually about 75% of the starters that I think are going out end up being that wire has come loose and is arc burned.

Also make sure the starter is tightly mounted, it grounds through the mounting surface.

James

I’ve found this also. Lots of starter issues come down to arc burn and bad connections.

Take the starter connections loose and clean them all. Wire brush, sand paper and a dob of dielectric. Never hurts to run an extra ground if she’s a greasy pig.

 

[nelstomlinson]

Lots of good advice above. Also, check your grounds! Last time I had a "click but no crank," it was a missing ground wire. That was on the Mercedes, which is set up a little differently, but if the engine block isn't thoroughly grounded, these are the symptoms you'll see.